My From Start to Finish 6.0L Build

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RAMurphy

RAMurphy

Bob
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Which rings did you get? Plasma moly top rings by chance?Are your second rings the taper face or the new Napier cut? There’s a pretty good section on installing the rings in the book I have- I think you said you have it too?
Mark, I'm using the JE Pro Series Seal Piston Rings. They are essentially custom rings. 1st ring is steel, 2nd ring is a composite (Iron/Phos/Nap - Bcut. Because these are custom rings and to ensure I have the "perfect" gap, I needed to grind all the 1st and 2nd rings to ensure proper gap for each cylinder. The oil rings were all fine. My "confusion" lies with the instructions provided with the pistons and rings. I may need to contact Texas Speed to be sure. Yes, I have that book and another and a video that appears to be in slight difference to what I think I'm reading. I'll sort it out.
 
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So after reading the instructions that came with my pistons and rings after a good night rest - I think I was over reading/thinking the instructions. They are inline with my overhaul books and videos. Spent this morning measuring connecting rod to crankshaft bearing clearances. They all checkout at .0018 to .0019.
 
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Ah got it. I’m trying to learn a bit as you go on, since I might end up building an LS one day. So I was reading about the different types of rings available now, since that technology keeps changing like everything else. So in the book I have, they were talking about the different types and it says if you are using steel top rings you need at least 90% “light tight” ring- to cylinder wall contact or they won’t break in properly. Is this something you’ll need to be concerned with or nah?

Edit: now that I think about what you said, I’m guessing you’re following the instructions that came with your rings. So never mind me, carry on!
I'm keeping detailed records and all part numbers and costs so when you actually start your build feel free to ask questions.
 
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So all, still a bit of time left before I complete this build and start the swap but I'm wondering since I will be pulling the engine and therefore having access to the torque converter whether I should upgrade this converter based on this new engine. Thoughts?
 

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I mean, while you’re there I would definitely replace it. As far as what I’d replace it with, I would probably change stall speed since I’m sure you’ll be driving it more spirited. I don’t have any recommendations as far as stall, brand or exact type. There’s a lot of personal preference involved imo. I forget- is your trans stock? Also, what type of tune are you going to run, that might influence what stall speed you would want.

Edit: I see you’ll be using BlackBear to tune it.
 

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So all, still a bit of time left before I complete this build and start the swap but I'm wondering since I will be pulling the engine and therefore having access to the torque converter whether I should upgrade this converter based on this new engine. Thoughts?

I think you'd be shorting yourself, like going all out everywhere else then stifling it a little with a stock converter. A better converter can improve the performance of a stock powertrain with little or no sacrifices. I forget what cam you have. But, based on weight, gearing, engine's expected power band, intended uses, etc., a company specializing in converters can spec one ideal for you. I'm very happy with my CircleD converter. It drives almost like stock during normal cruising but, when mashing it, it rips to nearly 3,000 before it hits hard. I've towed with it with no problems. Don't forget the input seal on the trans while you're there.
 
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RAMurphy

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I mean, while you’re there I would definitely replace it. As far as what I’d replace it with, I would probably change stall speed since I’m sure you’ll be driving it more spirited. I don’t have any recommendations as far as stall, brand or exact type. There’s a lot of personal preference involved imo. I forget- is your trans stock? Also, what type of tune are you going to run, that might influence what stall speed you would want.

Edit: I see you’ll be using BlackBear to tune it.
Mark, that's what I was thinking. Replace/upgrade while the engine is out. Yes, I have BBP tune and absolutely love it. My transmission is no longer stock. Several years ago I had a transmission guy (over 30+ years in the business) completely overhaul and upgrade my transmission with the best quality parts available. He sent step by step pictures and videos as he was tearing it down and rebuilding it. I even stopped by several times and he walked me through the process. When it was complete and installed, he stated that this was the as strong as he could make it and if I blew this one up it would be time for a 4L80, which he said he could make happen. No issues yet.
 
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I think you'd be shorting yourself, like going all out everywhere else then stifling it a little with a stock converter. A better converter can improve the performance of a stock powertrain with little or no sacrifices. I forget what cam you have. But, based on weight, gearing, engine's expected power band, intended uses, etc., a company specializing in converters can spec one ideal for you. I'm very happy with my CircleD converter. It drives almost like stock during normal cruising but, when mashing it, it rips to nearly 3,000 before it hits hard. I've towed with it with no problems. Don't forget the input seal on the trans while you're there.
I think you'd be shorting yourself, like going all out everywhere else then stifling it a little with a stock converter. A better converter can improve the performance of a stock powertrain with little or no sacrifices. I forget what cam you have. But, based on weight, gearing, engine's expected power band, intended uses, etc., a company specializing in converters can spec one ideal for you. I'm very happy with my CircleD converter. It drives almost like stock during normal cruising but, when mashing it, it rips to nearly 3,000 before it hits hard. I've towed with it with no problems. Don't forget the input seal on the trans while you're there.
Thank you for the response. Totally agree with the need to change/upgrade the torque converter. Started researching and wow so many variables go into picking the "right" converter including the cam (Vinci's Performance 544/552/213/220/114+4A) I am using. I like the ideal of reaching out to a company and having that discussion. Thank you for suggesting CircleD. I know there are others.
 

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I ended up talking to my trans builder as well as Roger Vinci when deciding on my converter. I went with an FTI billet triple disc with 2800 (iirc) stall since I have power adders but I feel that’s more than what you need. Performabuilt offered a second year of warranty on my trans if I bought an FTI converter so that had a lot to do with my choice of brand but I feel you won’t go wrong with a Circle D either. They’re both well known in the race world which to me is an indicator of quality. Racers don’t use parts that fail.
 
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I ended up talking to my trans builder as well as Roger Vinci when deciding on my converter. I went with an FTI billet triple disc with 2800 (iirc) stall since I have power adders but I feel that’s more than what you need. Performabuilt offered a second year of warranty on my trans if I bought an FTI converter so that had a lot to do with my choice of brand but I feel you won’t go wrong with a Circle D either. They’re both well known in the race world which to me is an indicator of quality. Racers don’t use parts that fail.
I plan to look at both these companies and a couple of others. Thanks again.
 

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