My From Start to Finish 6.0L Build

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RAMurphy

RAMurphy

Bob
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I've looked the ICON brand at HF but haven't bought any. They do look like quality tools though.

For this flex head ratchet, I wanted the one with the detents. I have the HF 1/4" flex head ratchet it bugs me that often the head moves on you while you are trying to reach a bolt. In addition, the Gearwrench also locks. It slows you down a bit to unlock, adjust the head angle, and relock. But I don't mind that at all.
It's this one if anyone is interested:

I hope you get better soon.

I'm much enjoying your build BTW. :)
Thank you. That is quite a ratchet. :)
 
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RAMurphy

RAMurphy

Bob
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Wednesday was pretty productive. This is what I accomplished:

  • Removed passenger side exhaust manifold.
  • Disconnect water temp sensor harness on driver side cylinder head.
  • Removed driver side exhaust manifold.
  • Removed one bolt holding lower wire harness.
  • Removed a/c tensioner (2 bolts).
  • Removed 3 nuts holding wires to Starter
  • Removed 2 bolts holding Starter to engine
  • Removed Starter
  • Removed 3 Bolts holding A/C compressor to engine (Note: Fourth bolt (lower front) was loosened but remained with compressor due to clearance. Rear top bolt is the shorter bolt)
  • Removed crankshaft position sensor harness
  • Removed oil quantity sensor harness
  • Removed passenger side bell housing inspection cover
  • Removed driver side inspection cover
  • Removed grounding wire to engine passenger side (top aft - 13mm bolt)
  • Removed oil pressure sending unit
  • Removed grounding wire to engine driver side (behind engine – 13 mm bolt, 2 wires – see picture)
  • Removed bell housing to engine bolts (passenger side top bolt above alignment pin held the support for the transmission dipstick, driver side near top held bracket for fuel lines). These were a pain in the ass.
  • Loosened then removed 3 bolts holding flywheel to torque converter
Should have the engine out tomorrow morning.
 
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RAMurphy

RAMurphy

Bob
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Took a few minutes to find a remove the single 10 mm bolt which secures the plastic wiring support located in front of the oil pan and below the timing chain cover. After removing this bolt, you slide the plastic cover toward the driver side to release the support.
wire support.jpg
I stumbled on this little trick in loosening the flywheel bolts. Getting the bolt in the right position (by rotating the engine with the harmonic balancer bolt), you then use the extension on the block as leverage to prevent the flywheel from turning while removing the bolts.
Fly Wheel.jpg
 
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RAMurphy

RAMurphy

Bob
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Well today I got the engine out. What I accomplished today with some more pictures:
  • Removed harmonic balancer bolt.
  • Removed harmonic balancer.
  • Removed remaining two bolts holding transmission to Oil Pan
  • Loosened transmission to rear support nut
  • Placed jack under transmission for support to prepare for engine removal
  • Ensured transmission to engine is free and not stuck
  • Removed passenger side engine mount bolts (x3 15mm) – soaking them in ********* helped
  • Removed driver side engine mount bolts WHICH WAS A PAIN IN THE ASS (x3 15mm) – soaking them in ********* helped
  • Removed Knock Sensor harness
  • Removed Knock Sensor
  • Removed Valley Cover plate
  • Removed camshaft position sensor (10mm)
  • Installed Valley Cover Lift Brace
  • Connected Engine Hoist
  • Start Lifting Engine and verify clearance and nor remaining connections to the Tahoe
  • Verify alignment Pins are not stuck and transmission and engine have separated
  • Removed Engine
  • Removed Driver side valve cover
  • Removed forward bolts (8) around timing cover.
  • Removed bolts (2) coming up from the bottom of timing cover.
  • Pull engine out of the engine bay
First I secured my flywheel before removing the Harmonic Balancer bolt.
HB1.jpgHB2.jpgHB3.jpg
 
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