- Joined
- Jun 9, 2009
- Posts
- 8,744
- Reaction score
- 608
i designed my springs to my specs and have them wound for me that's why they ride good.
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
just a heads up. I have yet seen the bar hit the bracket with the 6 inch drop springs and bumpstops in. If you measure the distance from top of axle mount to mount on frame with the sprinsg taken out its like 3 inches. There is no way the spring can compress that much to do that. but on the trucks ive done with c notches in them yes it hits hard and needs to be done and those have been bagged.
also the spohn panhard bar clears the bracket just fine due to the design it has also when going 4 or more inches I would get the adjustable panhard bar to kick over the pass side tire.
Just trying to give info from all aspects.
Since I finished altering the rear cross member, to allow for full rear suspension travel without the panhard bar/bracket hitting the frame, I decided to bite the bullet and drop the Tahoe another 1" all the way around. Last night after the kiddos were in bed I removed the 1" spacers from the rear springs to allow the 6" drop springs to be their full drop (instead of 5"). Then I did the easiest torsion key swap on earth since there's so little rust here in Texas. I just sprayed keys and both ends of the torsion bars with pb blaster then waited 3 hours for it to permeate. The keys practically fell off after a small tap with a 1lb hammer:
Here it is fresh after getting an alignment:
Any issues with the alignment using the spindles & keys?
Was a camber kit needed?
There are wide price differences for the keys, anywhere from 35.00 to 130.00, are all keys the same quality?
I have a 2/3 drop with the McGaughys spindles & springs, and I am thinking about doing a 3/5 drop on my '04 Tahoe.