My Lowering Experience

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NORCAL SS

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i designed my springs to my specs and have them wound for me that's why they ride good.
 
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digitalfiend

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Since I finished altering the rear cross member, to allow for full rear suspension travel without the panhard bar/bracket hitting the frame, I decided to bite the bullet and drop the Tahoe another 1" all the way around. Last night after the kiddos were in bed I removed the 1" spacers from the rear springs to allow the 6" drop springs to be their full drop (instead of 5"). Then I did the easiest torsion key swap on earth since there's so little rust here in Texas. :) I just sprayed keys and both ends of the torsion bars with pb blaster then waited 3 hours for it to permeate. The keys practically fell off after a small tap with a 1lb hammer:

20131210_214505.jpg

Here it is fresh after getting an alignment:

20131211_135852.jpg
 

NORCAL SS

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just a heads up. I have yet seen the bar hit the bracket with the 6 inch drop springs and bumpstops in. If you measure the distance from top of axle mount to mount on frame with the sprinsg taken out its like 3 inches. There is no way the spring can compress that much to do that. but on the trucks ive done with c notches in them yes it hits hard and needs to be done and those have been bagged.

also the spohn panhard bar clears the bracket just fine due to the design it has also when going 4 or more inches I would get the adjustable panhard bar to kick over the pass side tire.

Just trying to give info from all aspects and if i can save people from cutting into their trucks I try.
 
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digitalfiend

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just a heads up. I have yet seen the bar hit the bracket with the 6 inch drop springs and bumpstops in. If you measure the distance from top of axle mount to mount on frame with the sprinsg taken out its like 3 inches. There is no way the spring can compress that much to do that. but on the trucks ive done with c notches in them yes it hits hard and needs to be done and those have been bagged.

also the spohn panhard bar clears the bracket just fine due to the design it has also when going 4 or more inches I would get the adjustable panhard bar to kick over the pass side tire.

Just trying to give info from all aspects.

The adjustable panhard is on my list of mods to do. Unfortunately, I'm all dry after wrapping this up so it's going to have to wait till I have more in the Tahoe Budget.

Regardless, that's good info Tony...and I'll drink to that. :cheers:
 

NORCAL SS

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all good. I was going to tell you cutting the frame is not needed with the spohn panhard bar but you already did the deed. NO turning back now lol
 

TriniHoe

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Since I finished altering the rear cross member, to allow for full rear suspension travel without the panhard bar/bracket hitting the frame, I decided to bite the bullet and drop the Tahoe another 1" all the way around. Last night after the kiddos were in bed I removed the 1" spacers from the rear springs to allow the 6" drop springs to be their full drop (instead of 5"). Then I did the easiest torsion key swap on earth since there's so little rust here in Texas. :) I just sprayed keys and both ends of the torsion bars with pb blaster then waited 3 hours for it to permeate. The keys practically fell off after a small tap with a 1lb hammer:

Here it is fresh after getting an alignment:

Any issues with the alignment using the spindles & keys?
Was a camber kit needed?
There are wide price differences for the keys, anywhere from 35.00 to 130.00, are all keys the same quality?

I have a 2/3 drop with the McGaughys spindles & springs, and I am thinking about doing a 3/5 drop on my '04 Tahoe.
 

NORCAL SS

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Any issues with the alignment using the spindles & keys?
Was a camber kit needed?
There are wide price differences for the keys, anywhere from 35.00 to 130.00, are all keys the same quality?

I have a 2/3 drop with the McGaughys spindles & springs, and I am thinking about doing a 3/5 drop on my '04 Tahoe.


Yes will need a camber kit

in rear djm hardware kit/my bumpstops for free travel mod/my 6 inch springs wiht 1 inch spacer/belltech sp shocks will give the best ride. If you want to spend hundreds more you can get the double adjustable shocks from qa1 for rear
 

Tahoewhat

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I will not repeat what has been stated quite a few times, but with that said, after looking at the pictures, I kind of like the stance w/ those wheels. Not sure i would body drop it, i would just wait for tires and get a 50 series or so. But none the less, looks good w/ those wheels i think. Different and thats what i like.
 

Tylus

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very nice rig, and impressive work so far...but those tires man! way too small. for the $$$ you've spent, I think a 30" tire would have accomplished to the same effect "looks" wise

I understand the arguement about rotational mass. Really understand that point, I'm running 85 lbs rim/tire combo's with my Excursion...it's noticeable!

I'd be interested to see your rig with 30" rubber though. I don't do the dropped scene, but I can appreciate a job well done. And your setup is pretty good
 

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