New brake rotors, pads & steel braided lines - pedal needs tapping to be firm...

[Charlie207]

When I replaced a stuck caliper, and bled all the fluid from the four calipers (it was baaaad). I did it by myself using a Motive Power Bleeder. I sucked out the fluid resevoir with a turkey baster, then topped it off with fresh fluid. Attached the power bleeder & pumped up to 15 psi.

Then I just cracked the bleeder at each caliper (starting at the farthest away) until clear fluid drained out for a while. I had to top off the resevoir and repump up to 15psi several times, but it worked great. No sloppy brake pedal after.

https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-System-Bleeder-Trucks/dp/B000TK9FE8?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1

Technically, you're supposed to fill up the bleeder with brake fluid, but I was bleeding two vehicles with different fluid types, and didn't want to contaminate. Using it dry works the same, but you need to be more observant that you don't force air into the system. It's not that hard to observe and add fluid as needed.

 

[sniper_x]

I used a vacuum bleeder system with a master cylinder attachment that kept fluid in the reservoir while I ran the ABS Automated Bleed program.

It had me open & close bleeder screws on each caliper in order.

I thought that would knock it out for sure.

Nope.

 

[mattbta]

These questions have probably already been asked, but figured I would ask again.

1. Are the bleeders on top, ie. calipers put back on correctly?
2. Did you have something behind the brake pedal when manually bleeding to avoid pushing the pedal all the way to the floor?

 

[sniper_x]

These questions have probably already been asked, but figured I would ask again.

1. Are the bleeders on top, ie. calipers put back on correctly?
2. Did you have something behind the brake pedal when manually bleeding to avoid pushing the pedal all the way to the floor?

1. Are the bleeders on top, ie. calipers put back on correctly?

>> YES

2. Did you have something behind the brake pedal when manually bleeding to avoid pushing the pedal all the way to the floor?

>> NO? Why would i want to not push it all the way to the floor?

 

[j91z28d1]

1. Are the bleeders on top, ie. calipers put back on correctly?

>> YES

2. Did you have something behind the brake pedal when manually bleeding to avoid pushing the pedal all the way to the floor?

>> NO? Why would i want to not push it all the way to the floor?

since the master never gets pushed to the floor in a 100k miles, it wears just the top part, but now you go bleeding it and it hit the wear ridge and can damage the seal inside.

that's the theory anyways since a lot of guys have perfectly fine brakes and than all of a sudden after trying to bleed them, they need a new master cyl.

 

[OR VietVet]

The seal inside the master cylinder is shaped a lot like a cup and if the master cylinder is bottomed out it can cause the seal/cup to flip backwards. All of a sudden that seal/cup is in a part of the master cylinder that it is not used to being in and the ridge that @j91z28d1 talks about or seal/cup travel parameters can cause problems and is better to avoid all that. I use a small piece of 2x4 and put it on the floor and the pedal hits the 2x4 and never bottoms out.

 

[sniper_x]

The seal inside the master cylinder is shaped a lot like a cup and if the master cylinder is bottomed out it can cause the seal/cup to flip backwards. All of a sudden that seal/cup is in a part of the master cylinder that it is not used to being in and the ridge that @j91z28d1 talks about or seal/cup travel parameters can cause problems and is better to avoid all that. I use a small piece of 2x4 and put it on the floor and the pedal hits the 2x4 and never bottoms out.

Well crap.

If a new Master cylinder is inexpensive then I'll just eliminate this issue with a replacement.

/facepalm/

 

[sniper_x]

It appears I found someone with a unit new in box for $97.00.
I visually verified it's the same unit and part number as a new one from a GM Genuine Dealer.

I'll try to acquire it, but it'll take a while to reply back with my results (3-4 days) because I can't replace this until the weekend or early next week

 

[Charlie207]

Well crap.

If a new Master cylinder is inexpensive then I'll just eliminate this issue with a replacement.

/facepalm/

2014 GMC YUKON 5.3L V8 Master Cylinder | Shop Now at RockAuto

Brake & Wheel Hub Parts and More for Your 2014 GMC YUKON at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

 

[sniper_x]

2014 GMC YUKON 5.3L V8 Master Cylinder | Shop Now at RockAuto

Brake & Wheel Hub Parts and More for Your 2014 GMC YUKON at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

I found a new unit in box for $97 from a person who had an extra one.
However Rockauto does have them inexpensively too.

I'll look into these too.