No crank/start/anything condition with radio also in locked mode.

[Alberta Tahoe]

$350 CDN actually plus brokerage but I see your point. I hadn't shopped at the U.S. on-line retailer. Nearest thing I found on a Canadian sight was on Amazon. That's $550.

https://www.amazon.ca/popular-GM-Ve...UTF8&qid=1507424550&sr=8-5&keywords=GM+tech+2

Not even certain if this would be of any assistance or not.
I'd thought about purchasing my own scanner but there was something the GM tech said not be able to retrieve codes once the unit(s) have been removed but I'm not 100% sure I'm in agreement. Might be something lost in translation.

 

[Alberta Tahoe]

By way of an update, seeing as I can bypass the start enable relay and get the to turn over and bypass the fuel pump relay and initiate the pump (or at least hear it) is leading me to believe the current problem is something I've created with my testing. The ignition switch and associated wiring specifically. I've got to get schematics of the ignition wiring and how it relates to circuits the switch energizes. I've got some of it but need to dig around and find the rest.

 

[M1Gunner]

I wonder if your ignition lock cylinder and ignition switch are a tooth off. Thus, not turning forward enough to engage the starting system and when you turn it to the off position it's not completely off and partially supplying power to the accessory position for example.

I'd double/triple check to make sure they're indexed correctly. They're easily installed out of sync.

You may have solved your initial issue with the installation of a new ignition switch while simultaneously causing another.

 

[Alberta Tahoe]

I had thought about the indexing and it's very difficult to tell what's aligned and what isn't. That said, with the switch itself removed from the lock cylinder assembly, I can rotate the "gear" portion. There is a segment in the rotation where the momentary contact (or spring loaded to return) of the switch is engaged. This would be the start position. In this position, nothing happens just as when the switch is installed where it's supposed to be.
I have access to some additional drawings and when time allows (I'm only home for a few days out of a month) I take a stab at it.
Yes, I'm in agreement with while fixing one problem, I may have created another although the initial problem (the intermittent issue) became something more encompassing (complete electrical failure) seemingly all on it's own.
Thought's on a TECH 2 scanner? Would that instrument give me any insights into what is or isn't connected or is it as I suspect, simply a way of reading codes albeit with a little more depth than a simple CAN bus type scanner. I'm not into spending the $550 CDN for something that isn't going to be of any benefit.
Again as always, I thank everyone whose taken the time to reply. It all helps.

 

[M1Gunner]

Well the deal with the ignition switch is that it must be properly indexed before sliding it back up into and locking it into its housing on the steering column. If the white gear of the switch is not indexed properly before installation then it wouldn't matter if you were turning the lock cylinder or just a long flat tip screw driver in place of the lock cylinder. They would both be doing the same thing and you wouldn't be getting the complete swing or function of the ignition switch itself.

I Hope I said that in a way that makes sense...

 

[Alberta Tahoe]

Perfect sense.
It's think it's my description that was a little unclear. With the plastic switch removed form the lock cylinder (and with the wiring harness attached) I can rotate the white gear and not effect any change on the dash. Obviously there's more to it than I had guessed.
At any rate, it's an issue that will need looking into. As I said, I've tried several different positions of the key relative to where the white gear is on the plastic switch, all with no success. Doesn't mean it doesn't work, I just haven't found the right relationship between the two. Of course when going back over my re and re procedure, I neglected to remember what position the key was in originally. That would have immensely helpful.
Thanks again.

 

[retiredsparky]

How did you operate the start relay? Did you provide a ground and 12 V + or just the +? (The PCM normally provides the ground for the start enable relay).

 

[Alberta Tahoe]

The PCM provides the ground to drive the relay coil (across 85 and 86).
The removed the relay altogether and supplied 12 volts to the terminal 30 socket (the output from the relay to the starter solenoid).

 

[inmypassatlife]

I'm in the same situation, well almost. My 2001 left me stranded, luckily at a gas station near work. Security light had been flashing nonstop. Figured after a few hours it was the Passlock system and had her towed home (free thru insurance). Then ordered the ignition cylinder and the sensor housing. Got it installed and nothing. Damn thing doesn't go into relearn mode....whether I wait 10mins, 30mins, or an hour the light doesn't stop blinking. It's so damn frustrating to me.

I removed the aftermarket bypass for the remote start and pretty much started from scratch. Nothing's worked. I at one point last night smacked the BCM with the back of my hand and all the dash lights I usually get at startup came on, I waited 15mins and the security light never turned off or went solid. I cranked it and it turned on and died out a second later as the theft deterrent is supposed to.

So, me and a few of my old car audio installer buddies, including the guy I bought it off of think it's the BCM at this point. Removed it. It looks good, no solder joint breaks, but who knows. I'm going to swap it out anyways.

Tried all the efforts to remove power like remove the battery, put both batt cables together, and to remove the TBC fuse from under the dash. Nothing, I still just get crank but immediate shut off. I'm only $75 into it with parts. I ordered a BCM that should be here Tuesday from Amazon, it was $120. There were cheaper with a core return that would have been like $77, but it would be a week before it arrives. I'll update y'all then.

 

[PG01]

I remem my bil 97 malibu did this on my driveway i feel like it was something with the remote un locking the doors then locking again ... he had aftermarket keyless entry, not so much an alarm but just a remote fob for keyless but it went into theft passlock or someshit... just ideas