No start issues again

[Phisher]

Yeah I wish that were the case I've looked around I've also called the auto shop that fixed my security lock out problem the last time and again that cost me two grand after only owning this vehicle for 2 weeks and they won't even speak with me about the truck they claim they have to look at it. . I can't afford to have it towed in look I'm a single dad with four kids.... I lost my wife due to covid I don't have money to buy a tech tool I don't have money half the time to put gas in it's kind of hard taking care of my family this is my family vehicle(more then a daily driver) I'd love to be able to go out and buy a $300 toy but I don't have that luxury I'm at the point I'm just putting this POS up for sale or taking it to the junkyard like I said I get crank no power to the pump unless I jump the relay security lights constantly blinking ...I just don't understand it I don't get why GM makes a product like this anyways a vehicle should lock out because this freaking sensor isn't working or because a relay is not working or because you're standing too close to your vehicle with your fob or you're doing whatever simple thing it takes to make these vehicles not work anymore I appreciate the help but again there's so many different things here I don't know which one I'm supposed to follow I hook the tool up on it this morning it won't even find anything it doesn't find the ECM it won't even give me a code so I don't understand what your tech tool is going to do anyways and as far as the multimeter it tells me so many different things I don't know what's going on other than the fact that I'll never buy a GM product again cuz they suck

 

[Phisher]

Well again today trying to deal with this Yukon all I have now is a service engine lights the security light blinks when the key is not in but if I turn it to the on position all I get is low fuel yet I have a full tank the battery light and the service engine light no security is blinking anymore but I still get nothing but crank again I have gas spraying out at the engine through the relief I have power to my pump but again nothing but cranking well I take that back it's just got so many things going on in the message center that I didn't realize the security light was still there so I'm trying to do the pass lock reset I have my key in the on position I'm getting a low fuel light which again I have a full tank none of the gauges work except the battery voltage and in the message center I get the battery light then it goes to low fuel and then I get the security light back to the battery light and I hear something humming and clicking on and off if I do this also

 

[MassHoe04]

I am really sorry for the loss of your wife!

I can't imagine the stress of that, plus having to try dealing with fixing your vehicle on a budget I know must be super tight. Every penny spent puts you deeper in the hole.
If you sell now, you'd be in an even deeper hole.

The security light is supposed to come on when the door is closed and you lock the doors with the fob. Does it turn off, when you lock/unlock with the fob?

Unfortunately, there are limits on how much we can help over the internet. While we get lucky and find solutions remotely often, but it can be really difficult to attempt diagnoses online. Especially some electrical issues...

Is there anyone on the forum, that lives nearby, who might be willing to assist the OP in person? Maybe help this guy out of a jam?

 

[S33k3r]

When the only tool you have is a hammer, all your problems begin to look like nails. I say this so you know to consider my suggestion, but with a grain of salt.

Check your alternator output. I bet your alternator is dying. Alternatively, it could be a bad ground or a bad positive lead between your alternator and your battery.

It just sounds like your components are starved for power.

The reason this a "hammer" for me is because I just had a buddy go through something similar, and I've suggested the same on another post.

 

[Phisher]

I am really sorry for the loss of your wife!

I can't imagine the stress of that, plus having to try dealing with fixing your vehicle on a budget I know must be super tight. Every penny spent puts you deeper in the hole.
If you sell now, you'd be in an even deeper hole.

The security light is supposed to come on when the door is closed and you lock the doors with the fob. Does it turn off, when you lock/unlock with the fob?

Unfortunately, there are limits on how much we can help over the internet. While we get lucky and find solutions remotely often, but it can be really difficult to attempt diagnoses online. Especially some electrical issues...

Is there anyone on the forum, that lives nearby, who might be willing to assist the OP in person? Maybe help this guy out of a jam?

So there's the issue with the fob 2 months ago when I had the original security lockout issue the shop that changed it when they gave me keys they didn't have a fob they said that my original one was busted anyways so I've never been able to lock the vehicle cuz I'm always afraid it's going to freaking lock me out for good and now that I've tried unsuccessfully numerous times doing the passlock reset I don't know what to do I don't know if I just take it to another shop and have them do the ignition switch out again I just and besides myself I mean I've spent so much money on this vehicle and it's not even worth it but you can't find anything nowadays either

 

[Phisher]

When the only tool you have is a hammer, all your problems begin to look like nails. I say this so you know to consider my suggestion, but with a grain of salt.

Check your alternator output. I bet your alternator is dying. Alternatively, it could be a bad ground or a bad positive lead between your alternator and your battery.

It just sounds like your components are starved for power.

The reason this a "hammer" for me is because I just had a buddy go through something similar, and I've suggested the same on another post.

It's funny you bring that up about the alternator because I have to switch the battery out after every time I attempt to start it I can only turn it over three times maybe and then the battery is dead I was wondering about the alternator myself or a ground somewhere

 

[rockola1971]

It's funny you bring that up about the alternator because I have to switch the battery out after every time I attempt to start it I can only turn it over three times maybe and then the battery is dead I was wondering about the alternator myself or a ground somewhere

Well that wouldve been a symptom that should have been told from the beginning. You need to understand there is a difference between a scanner(code reader) and a Bi directional scanner which is what the tech 2 is. A code reader is NOT a bi directional scanner and can NOT be used to even remotely to the level of a Tech 2. A tech 2 can be used to troubleshoot so many systems and even subsystems down to the sensor level on a vehicle. You can actually turn one injector on/off with a tech 2 for troubleshooting or even reset the security code on your radio, run your shift motor on your Tcase through all its positions and check for positive feedback of position, bleed your brake system using the ABS pump and many many other things.
A voltmeter is built into a multimeter/digital voltmeter. It is a useless tool to someone that does NOT know how to use it or interpret what information it is telling you. Sure anyone can be taught how to properly use it. Without basic DC theory knowledge it makes it harder.

Coming here bashing GM is NOT going to make people want to eagerly help you considering this is an all GM forum. Guess what...everybody here owns GM. And I hate to be the bearer of bad news...All vehicle manufacturers have their flaws, down to specific models and even engines or transmissions. A USED vehicle was sold off as used for a reason...it aint new anymore, isnt under warrant anymore and likely has some problems.

There is nothing that cant be fixed. Its just a matter is it economical to fix or not.

Now back to the beginning step on your problems which seem to be electrical related. ALWAYS check the power supply first which is your battery and alternator. Check battery voltage with a Voltmeter, not the dash gauge. It should be atleast 12.4-12.5 if not well over 13v if fully charged. There is a known problem with our chassis that causes a sitting vehicle to drain the batter down and after time will ruin the battery. A lead acid battery is NOT designed to be ran down and recharged often. If that happens then it will kill cells in the battery which prevents the battery from outputting the needed 12v+ which makes it useless. Clean your battery connections, check your alternator battery charge wire for corrosion, defects, loose connections.

Charge the battery fully to around 12.8-13.6v. Have hood release popped so you wont have to open a door (there is a reason for this) and check the next day what the battery voltage is AFTER you charged the battery fully the previous day. The voltage should be around 12.6v or higher. If it isnt then let us know. You likely have a BCM not going to sleep and running the battery down overnight. Check the ground behind the rear of the engine all the way up to the firewall for corrosion, loose connection or broken ground wire. Also check the same for the ground wire at the chassis just below drivers door right near the transition to the firewall.

Since the engine wont even start then the alternator is NOT charging your battery but it could have a bad diode inside that is shorted to ground and drawing your battery down. There are easy ways to troubleshoot that too. We will get there when you get back to the basics and let us know whats going on with that battery.

 

[Jimmyy]

There is a member in Vegas with a tech 2.

 

[Phisher]

Well that wouldve been a symptom that should have been told from the beginning. You need to understand there is a difference between a scanner(code reader) and a Bi directional scanner which is what the tech 2 is. A code reader is NOT a bi directional scanner and can NOT be used to even remotely to the level of a Tech 2. A tech 2 can be used to troubleshoot so many systems and even subsystems down to the sensor level on a vehicle. You can actually turn one injector on/off with a tech 2 for troubleshooting or even reset the security code on your radio, run your shift motor on your Tcase through all its positions and check for positive feedback of position, bleed your brake system using the ABS pump and many many other things.
A voltmeter is built into a multimeter/digital voltmeter. It is a useless tool to someone that does NOT know how to use it or interpret what information it is telling you. Sure anyone can be taught how to properly use it. Without basic DC theory knowledge it makes it harder.

Coming here bashing GM is NOT going to make people want to eagerly help you considering this is an all GM forum. Guess what...everybody here owns GM. And I hate to be the bearer of bad news...All vehicle manufacturers have their flaws, down to specific models and even engines or transmissions. A USED vehicle was sold off as used for a reason...it aint new anymore, isnt under warrant anymore and likely has some problems.

There is nothing that cant be fixed. Its just a matter is it economical to fix or not.

Now back to the beginning step on your problems which seem to be electrical related. ALWAYS check the power supply first which is your battery and alternator. Check battery voltage with a Voltmeter, not the dash gauge. It should be atleast 12.4-12.5 if not well over 13v if fully charged. There is a known problem with our chassis that causes a sitting vehicle to drain the batter down and after time will ruin the battery. A lead acid battery is NOT designed to be ran down and recharged often. If that happens then it will kill cells in the battery which prevents the battery from outputting the needed 12v+ which makes it useless. Clean your battery connections, check your alternator battery charge wire for corrosion, defects, loose connections.

Charge the battery fully to around 12.8-13.6v. Have hood release popped so you wont have to open a door (there is a reason for this) and check the next day what the battery voltage is AFTER you charged the battery fully the previous day. The voltage should be around 12.6v or higher. If it isnt then let us know. You likely have a BCM not going to sleep and running the battery down overnight. Check the ground behind the rear of the engine all the way up to the firewall for corrosion, loose connection or broken ground wire. Also check the same for the ground wire at the chassis just below drivers door right near the transition to the firewall.

Since the engine wont even start then the alternator is NOT charging your battery but it could have a bad diode inside that is shorted to ground and drawing your battery down. There are easy ways to troubleshoot that too. We will get there when you get back to the basics and let us know whats going on with that batteryl

Well that wouldve been a symptom that should have been told from the beginning. You need to understand there is a difference between a scanner(code reader) and a Bi directional scanner which is what the tech 2 is. A code reader is NOT a bi directional scanner and can NOT be used to even remotely to the level of a Tech 2. A tech 2 can be used to troubleshoot so many systems and even subsystems down to the sensor level on a vehicle. You can actually turn one injector on/off with a tech 2 for troubleshooting or even reset the security code on your radio, run your shift motor on your Tcase through all its positions and check for positive feedback of position, bleed your brake system using the ABS pump and many many other things.
A voltmeter is built into a multimeter/digital voltmeter. It is a useless tool to someone that does NOT know how to use it or interpret what information it is telling you. Sure anyone can be taught how to properly use it. Without basic DC theory knowledge it makes it harder.

Coming here bashing GM is NOT going to make people want to eagerly help you considering this is an all GM forum. Guess what...everybody here owns GM. And I hate to be the bearer of bad news...All vehicle manufacturers have their flaws, down to specific models and even engines or transmissions. A USED vehicle was sold off as used for a reason...it aint new anymore, isnt under warrant anymore and likely has some problems.

There is nothing that cant be fixed. Its just a matter is it economical to fix or not.

Now back to the beginning step on your problems which seem to be electrical related. ALWAYS check the power supply first which is your battery and alternator. Check battery voltage with a Voltmeter, not the dash gauge. It should be atleast 12.4-12.5 if not well over 13v if fully charged. There is a known problem with our chassis that causes a sitting vehicle to drain the batter down and after time will ruin the battery. A lead acid battery is NOT designed to be ran down and recharged often. If that happens then it will kill cells in the battery which prevents the battery from outputting the needed 12v+ which makes it useless. Clean your battery connections, check your alternator battery charge wire for corrosion, defects, loose connections.

Charge the battery fully to around 12.8-13.6v. Have hood release popped so you wont have to open a door (there is a reason for this) and check the next day what the battery voltage is AFTER you charged the battery fully the previous day. The voltage should be around 12.6v or higher. If it isnt then let us know. You likely have a BCM not going to sleep and running the battery down overnight. Check the ground behind the rear of the engine all the way up to the firewall for corrosion, loose connection or broken ground wire. Also check the same for the ground wire at the chassis just below drivers door right near the transition to the firewall.

Since the engine wont even start then the alternator is NOT charging your battery but it could have a bad diode inside that is shorted to ground and drawing your battery down. There are easy ways to troubleshoot that too. We will get there when you get back to the basics and let us know whats going on with that battery.

Thank you so much for your help you explained it so dummy like me can figure out exactly what you're talking about and I'm sorry I'm not bashing GM completely just this Yukon that has made my life hell

 

[Phisher]

There is a member in Vegas with a tech 2.

I apologize I didn't see that typo I'm not from Vegas I'm in Minnesota I just edited that so it's not in there anymore again I apologize