Now My DRLs Are Out.

[YukonGTmaster]

Youtube has taught me everything from repairing my clothes washer, to teaching me to play guitar. Lot's of great videos on fixing our OBS trucks. I searched 97 Yukon DRL troubleshooting.

 

[Mean_Green]

I don't watch videos of any kind, anywhere. I haven't even watched TV in close to 10 years. Something about the motion on the new digital screens bothers my eyes. Too sharp, too much jumping around, whatever it is.

Now if someone would care to type out something to look for, or point to a link where something to look for is typed out, that would be great.

 

[YukonGTmaster]

I don't watch videos of any kind, anywhere. I haven't even watched TV in close to 10 years. Something about the motion on the new digital screens bothers my eyes. Too sharp, too much jumping around, whatever it is.

Now if someone would care to type out something to look for, or point to a link where something to look for is typed out, that would be great.

Understood.

-First thing to check is Fuse #4 "Gauges" 10a, and #15 "DRL-FOG" 20a. With key on and a test light, you should have power at the fuses.

-daytime running light relay, located at convenience center (drivers side left footwell under dash) power should be at point 85, controlling the relay.

-In the video, the guy had a weak voltage at test point 87 of the convenience center. It ended up being a bad diode block underneath the dash, by the steering column, forward of the metal tube. The diode is a rectangular block, with cooling fins, with a circle in the middle.

-like the other guys said. There is a normally open switch at the top of the parking brake, with a light blue wire. If this switch is closed or parking brake is depressed or out of adjustment, no DRL.





Some of the guys may be able to help you out with a wiring diagram. If you change your mind about the video, grab some popcorn and enjoy! I sure did! Lol.

 

[Mean_Green]

Brake switch is an open leaf where I can see both contacts and that appears to be working.

I have power at Fuse 15 with key on or not. Power full time. Gauges all work normally, so 4 is unlikely.

Relay has a 1, 2, 3, 4 & 5, no 87.

 

[Fless]

Brake switch is an open leaf where I can see both contacts and that appears to be working.

I have power at Fuse 15 with key on or not. Power full time. Gauges all work normally, so 4 is unlikely.

Relay has a 1, 2, 3, 4 & 5, no 87.

Are you looking at the junction box or the relay contacts?

 

[Mean_Green]

I don't know if mine is older or newer.






I'm guessing my 5 is their 87.


Like I said, I'm not really sure I care about the DRLs as such, but I'd like to know why they quit and if it might be an indication of something else coming.

 

[ZKWBQD]

Not sure how long it's been but I noticed it when I pulled into a parking garage. Headlight, brights, turn, park and marker all work.

Not sure I really care about the DRLs, but I'm curious.

Considering all the efforts that many people make to disconnect or disable their DRL's, perhaps you should be happy. This would've saved me the trouble of programming them to be off.

 

[Mean_Green]

No progress, no change, but I haven't been feeling well, so haven't really spent much time chasing it. But I got to wondering if it might be related to this somehow:

Why are my interior lights on?

Go out to the garage to get ready to run errands in the wagon. All of the interior lights are on in the 'Hoe. Rotate the thumbwheel, click the override button a few times, open and close driver's door, turn headlights on and off ... still on. Weird. I keep a battery tender on it, so not...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

Is there anything in common? Those light have not come on unattended since. They work normally with the doors and remotes.



.

 

[Mean_Green]

Ideas?

 

[Mean_Green]

Pulled it out of the garage today to check something else. Checked the front just in case and yup, DRLs are lit.

Must be haunted.