OK, Bought a 07 with a couple problems today.

[SpareParts]

She will never notice a thing probably. I plan on disabling AFM with HPTuners. Just have not done it yet. It is a 2014 with 130K so i need to do it soonish i spose.

 

[SpareParts]

Got the replacement engine tore down for the gaskets and seals im replacing.
Overall not bad looking on the inside, but the heads do have a little sludge built up in them. It's not hard and baked, just gooey.
Need to flip it on its side to clean that out so none of it gets into the engine pita, but i can't leave it in there.
The oil pan has some gunk in the bottom like the heads, but i did not see any sparkly stuff at all and that's a big relief!

 

[mikeyss]

Got the replacement engine tore down for the gaskets and seals im replacing.
Overall not bad looking on the inside, but the heads do have a little sludge built up in them. It's not hard and baked, just gooey.
Need to flip it on its side to clean that out so none of it gets into the engine pita, but i can't leave it in there.
The oil pan has some gunk in the bottom like the heads, but i did not see any sparkly stuff at all and that's a big relief!

View attachment 441313View attachment 441314View attachment 441315View attachment 441316

You may want to Google info about those 5364 heads. I believe they have some issues, so if your current engine has 821/823 heads, use those instead

 

[SpareParts]

You may want to Google info about those 5364 heads. I believe they have some issues, so if your current engine has 821/823 heads, use those instead

I actually did check on them as i had never seen them.
Are you thinking the 823 heads that are known to crack if they have a casting mark that looks like a battery?
As far as i can find reading 5364 heads are as good as the other two casting number heads you normally find on 6.2L engines.

 

[petethepug]

Oh, here’s a bad idea. Rebuild the 6.2 and return the 5.3 for the core deposit

 

[SpareParts]

Though of that. Have a 5.3 here and asked if that would work. Big NOPE!
Good try though

 

[mikeyss]

I actually did check on them as i had never seen them.
Are you thinking the 823 heads that are known to crack if they have a casting mark that looks like a battery?
As far as i can find reading 5364 heads are as good as the other two casting number heads you normally find on 6.2L engines.

Hmmm.. When I was doing my research before building my 6.2, I remember it being the 5364 heads that had issues. When I get off work later, I will try and find the info I found back then. I definitely don't want to spread false information.

 

[SpareParts]

My thinking is it has ran this long. If I going to start putting different heads on it and stuff I might as well rebuild the bad one in it.

 

[Jims2013Yukon]

It is a 2007 Yukon XL Denali 1500. AWD 6.2L, 200K
It has the P0011 code and hot oil pressure is about 15PSI. Known when i bought it. It is in great shape with everything working except what could be a couple expensive problems im willing to fix.
1: VVT code P0011.
2: Rear shocks are blown. Pump is good.
Minor problems are.
1: All TPMS sensors read 148PSI but the scanner says all 4 batteries are ok.
2: Driving during the day it is very hard to see the dash gauges. I have to turn on the park lights to get the dash lights to come on so i can comfortably see the gauges.

Other then this stuff its in really great shape. Drives nice, No Dents, all glass good, No rips holes in the interior and other then a few rock chips on the front paint is good.
So tackle the expensive VVT first.
The engine does not make any strange noises but it was not cold and had been run from his house to the parking lot where we met.
After driving about 150 miles home with StabiliTrak warning coming on and off. No check engine light till i got into my driveway and it turned on.
Hot oil pressure is about 15PSI.
I have read a lot about fixing the VVT but nothing guaranteed to fix it.
I going to order the 3 new parts most replace and change them but,
I also notice the oil pressure gauge is really sluggish. From idle if i rev the engine to say 2K it takes a few seconds for the oil pressure to get up to 40PSI, when return back to idle the gauge will take maybe 7 seconds to return to 15PSI.
Im wondering if my engine has that screen and if so it might be clogged with gunk causing the sluggish gauge and possibly VVT not working properly?

I had low pressure on my 5.3 with 180k miles. So I dropped the oil pan and replaced the o ring on the oil pick up tube. Increased oil pressure when hot from 15 to 25 at idle and from 25 up to 45 at 2500 rpm.

 

[petethepug]

As you can see the oil press sensor is conveniently located at the back of the motor and easy to access (as long as the motor is out).

Be sure to use an OEM sensor in there from a reputable source. The market is flooded with offshore counterfeit crap. You don’t want to replace that buggar after the motor is in. It’s a blind reach and a PITA.