One torsion bar seems to be worn?

[M1Gunner]

If you take a C clamp and remove the flat disk, it leaves a ball that fits in the key perfectly. I used this to remove the factory key and install the aftermarket key. Both sides went the same as far as I can tell. Like I said I just don't see a way to install them incorrectly.

So based on the comments above this is a normal GM thing where the keys do not adjust to the same height/bolt position.

A regular C-clamp CANNOT properly preload the keys. Yes, regular C-clamps can be modified to seat your keys on the keepers but they're not preloaded. A regular C-clamp won't withstand the amount of pressure you need to apply to properly torque/preload the torsion bars to seat them on the keepers.

I apologize in advance if I offend anyone... If you want to believe Joe Shmoe who tells you that is normal, that's up to you. But if I was you I would at least go to Autozone and pick up a loaner GM Torsion Bar Unloading tool and see how huge of a difference using the right tools for the right job will make.

 

[Matahoe]

Yeah and think back to when you slid the bar back into the key. I belive you can mistakenly index the bar in different ways. Just do it like the manual states. You can get all kinds of confused if not preloaded right. For instance, was the LCA supported or did you use jack stands on the frame like your supposed to?

I got under my tahoe today and realized after tightening and bottoming the drivers side 18mm bolt that it seemed to do nothing to affect my Z height. No gap between jounce bumper and LCA. In fact mine is touching 1 inch compressed. So something seems amiss on mine as well. I can't perform anot alignment until the ride height is adjusted properly.

Would worn LCA bushings affect torsion angle of the bar? Not sure but it seems probable.

 

[brasil]

Mopar used the same thing torsion bars.... but that diffence is not normal the driverside adjuster screw
is turned in all the way... verses the passengerside where the bolt /screw is only half way in....
I thnk someone pulled the bars...and didn´t preload those properly...
My 2 Tahoes have nearly the same position of the adj.bolt driver and passenger side. both half way in...

also both cars are sitting 10 mm or 3/8 inch "deeper " on the Driverside..

 

[01ssreda4]

Yeah and think back to when you slid the bar back into the key. I belive you can mistakenly index the bar in different ways. Just do it like the manual states. You can get all kinds of confused if not preloaded right. For instance, was the LCA supported or did you use jack stands on the frame like your supposed to?

I got under my tahoe today and realized after tightening and bottoming the drivers side 18mm bolt that it seemed to do nothing to affect my Z height. No gap between jounce bumper and LCA. In fact mine is touching 1 inch compressed. So something seems amiss on mine as well. I can't perform anot alignment until the ride height is adjusted properly.

Would worn LCA bushings affect torsion angle of the bar? Not sure but it seems probable.

Im not trying to bust your balls buddy, but you dont have a clue about how a torsen bar works. Listen carefully, if you index the key wrong, your truck wont even remotely be put back together correctly. The suspension is gonna be way too high or way too low. Thats not a mistake you "maybe" made. And, dont ever crank that bolt with the weight of the truck on the suspension! Its not designed to be "adjustable" suspension (so leave it alone if you dont know what you're doing), turning it a couple of turns will raise the truck a little except the suspension is in a bind when its weighted so it wont show until you roll the truck.

Mopar used the same thing torsion bars.... but that diffence is not normal the driverside adjuster screw
is turned in all the way... verses the passengerside where the bolt /screw is only half way in....
I thnk someone pulled the bars...and didn´t preload those properly...
My 2 Tahoes have nearly the same position of the adj.bolt driver and passenger side. both half way in...

also both cars are sitting 10 mm or 3/8 inch "deeper " on the Driverside..

Yes it is normal for these trucks. Also, please explain preloading the torsen bars, and its purpose, why you do it, and the effects of not doing it. Or are you just repeating something you thought you understood but really didnt?

 

[brasil]

about "preloading ".. Last week I removed both torsion bars while overhaulin the front end of a 64 Polara..
the adjuster arms have a Screw.. ( same construction as the Tahoe ) When the car is on the lift..first thing is to unscrew the nut that supports the piviot bushing.. then the screw has to be turned out to release the "preload" or whatever you call it... if I didn´t unscrew the bolt... the torsion bar will stick ..

The adjuster arm brings some preload on the TB ...or not ? If they don´t work like this - what are they good for .. - o.k. for the ride hight but I think that is the same..

Greetings Juergen

 

[Matahoe]

Im not trying to bust your balls buddy, but you dont have a clue about how a torsen bar

I know 100% what a torsion bar is, how it works and how to adjust them.

I understand what your saying. But let there be no illusions. The service manual says to adjust it with the weight on the wheels. 2mm for each full turn. And yes you should see an immediate rise in height.

 

[01ssreda4]

Nope, you confirmed it, you don't have a clue!

 

[Matahoe]

I guess not. Why dont you enlighten us.

 

[01ssreda4]

Two things, one while the threads on the adjusting bolt can hold the load, they aren't strong enough to turn while loaded, especially unlubricated. Any manual that says adjust them while the suspension is loaded is plain wrong, that's a poor way to do it and risking thread damage. Second, when a suspension is raised or lowered it travels on an axis, meaning as its raised the wheels come closer to the body, and and it's lowered they push away, because it's travel isn't exactly up and down. That causes the tires to sideload and bind the suspension at a false height. If you left it loaded the effect would be less, but still there none the less. It's just how a arm suspensions work.

 

[M1Gunner]

Two things, one while the threads on the adjusting bolt can hold the load, they aren't strong enough to turn while loaded, especially unlubricated. Any manual that says adjust them while the suspension is loaded is plain wrong, that's a poor way to do it and risking thread damage. Second, when a suspension is raised or lowered it travels on an axis, meaning as its raised the wheels come closer to the body, and and it's lowered they push away, because it's travel isn't exactly up and down. That causes the tires to sideload and bind the suspension at a false height. If you left it loaded the effect would be less, but still there none the less. It's just how a arm suspensions work.

Someone better tell that bolt head goodbye because you're gonna lose that guy before the threads lol. NEVER make adjustments without the front end raised off the ground!