Please Help w/ HID Issue!

[felixgun]

So I did switched the relay cubes to determine if it was internal harness issues or the relay itself was bad. Turns out that relay is good as passenger light is still good with driver side relay. I emailed them Saturday and they still haven't responded. I'm gonna call tomorrow and see if they can send out a new harness.

 

[felixgun]

Well TRS sent me another HD relay and driver side still doesn't work. TRS customer service via email is also slow as ****. Shoulda listened to lee and not go this route lol. Philips anyone?!?

 

[01Konvict]

Weird issues Felix, mine fire up just fine on my 11 Denali. Hope you get it straight but I would think a custom harness with capacitors to ignite the ballasts/bulbs would get them working right.

 

[felixgun]

Yea where do u get that? I have the HD relay and capacitor they supplied. The other harness they sent still has the same issue. I sent pictures to verify it was hooked up correctly. I emailed them a WEEK ago saying it still doesn't work and they still haven't responded. Needless to say I won't be recommending TRS or Morimoto to ANYONE.

 

[ATIII]

Finally pinned down what was causing my flicker!

Here's the rundown:

Symptom: Driver LO Beam only Flickering, and failing to fully ignite, sort of like a florescent light that the bulbs or ballast is dying, Turning the lights on and off a couple of times would get rid of it for a short time.

Swapped around Balasts, I have four installed and tried them all with same effect, but no flicker on any of the other 3 bulbs.

Replaced HID Relay

Installed capacitors (not the plug n play ones, but real caps wired across)

All power comes from a fuse distribution block with 4ga. as supply from battery, 10ga. to HID Relays. 30a fuses

STILL FLICKERING

Replaced Bulbs with DDM Ultra's,

Stopped the flickering until the other night.

I go to start the truck and the starter barely had enough to turn the engine over, but it still started, I go to check the voltages at the battery 14.4 strong at idle, so alt. is ok. And I notice the damn fcking driver LO beam is flickering again!

WTF YOU MFING POS LIGHT!

Take it to part store and put a load test on the battery, only pushing 524 of 700 cranking amps.

Got new battery under warranty and no more flicker. YET?!

I did a lot of wiring in about a 4 month period and I think it was just to much for the battery Gonna look into a battery with high 700's cranking amps when I get a chance prolly a Die-Hard or Optima.

Hope this helps

 

[Clean07Burb]

Finally pinned down what was causing my flicker!

Here's the rundown:

Symptom: Driver LO Beam only Flickering, and failing to fully ignite, sort of like a florescent light that the bulbs or ballast is dying, Turning the lights on and off a couple of times would get rid of it for a short time.

Swapped around Balasts, I have four installed and tried them all with same effect, but no flicker on any of the other 3 bulbs.

Replaced HID Relay

Installed capacitors (not the plug n play ones, but real caps wired across)

All power comes from a fuse distribution block with 4ga. as supply from battery, 10ga. to HID Relays. 30a fuses

STILL FLICKERING

Replaced Bulbs with DDM Ultra's,

Stopped the flickering until the other night.

I go to start the truck and the starter barely had enough to turn the engine over, but it still started, I go to check the voltages at the battery 14.4 strong at idle, so alt. is ok. And I notice the damn fcking driver LO beam is flickering again!

WTF YOU MFING POS LIGHT!

Take it to part store and put a load test on the battery, only pushing 524 of 700 cranking amps.

Got new battery under warranty and no more flicker. YET?!

I did a lot of wiring in about a 4 month period and I think it was just to much for the battery Gonna look into a battery with high 700's cranking amps when I get a chance prolly a Die-Hard or Optima.

Hope this helps

Hmm...I've tested my battery more than once recently and its been fine. I do have access to new batteries, though, so maybe I'll just try temporarily sticking a new battery in and see what happens. I'll be sure to use the highest cold cranking amp battery possible. I don't think it will fix mine or Felix's issue, as his truck is new, but I'll try it.

Thanks for the input and I'll update once I see what happens. Might even give it a go later today...

 

[fireburban]

I'm having this same issue on a BFC Retro kit on my 13 burb. Most of the time it's the DRV side that doesn't work. Sometimes Pass side, sometimes both don't ignite.

I think it's cause from the auto selector on the headlight switch. Not sending enough voltage or something similar. Also not sending it equally. Just my thoughts, even though i know some of you have wired directly to the battery. That's still where I look as the culprit.

I have new Mirimoto Three5 bulbs and ballasts from BFC to try and remedy the issue. I'll report back when i get those installed.

---------- Post added at 11:12 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:10 AM ----------

I guess the fix to me would be bypassing that switch or killing the auto option all together from the switch. I've read many cars with this option have problems with HID ballasts.

 

[08grey]

Getting a jatronix relay and using a basic relay harness will solve startup cut out. This cost like 45 bucks but Will allow you to keep the auto headlights.

 

[08grey]

http://www.jatronx.com/products/voltage-sensitive-latching-relay/

 

[Clean07Burb]

I'm having this same issue on a BFC Retro kit on my 13 burb. Most of the time it's the DRV side that doesn't work. Sometimes Pass side, sometimes both don't ignite.

I think it's cause from the auto selector on the headlight switch. Not sending enough voltage or something similar. Also not sending it equally. Just my thoughts, even though i know some of you have wired directly to the battery. That's still where I look as the culprit.

I have new Mirimoto Three5 bulbs and ballasts from BFC to try and remedy the issue. I'll report back when i get those installed.

---------- Post added at 11:12 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:10 AM ----------

I guess the fix to me would be bypassing that switch or killing the auto option all together from the switch. I've read many cars with this option have problems with HID ballasts.

I already eliminated my auto headlight feature from the start. I installed a resistor in the dash sensor so the truck always thinks its daylight outside. I have total control now of when my lights are on or off. I still have the issue of only the passenger side working, though....