Power steering loss ?

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jimpec

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Started 2001 Tahoe Lt when temp was 0’F. Steering pump instantly started whining and after warm up there wasn’t any power steering. Fluid level is normal but has bubbles on surface. Pump was replaced 1 1/2 years ago when shaft broke. PLEASE give suggestions as to where to start diagnosis. Thank you all!
 

OR VietVet

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First thing I would do is just let it run and get warm and attempt to turn just a little at a time. Pressure for p/s is built when attempting to turn and that will warm the fluid. Just a little shake from 3 to 9 should do it and rest in between for a bit. The fluid may have moisture in it but how, I don't know.
 

rockola1971

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Probably has the pressure control valve stuck because its so cold in its bore. My 2003 LT really grunted this morning when I went to start it at -8 deg. Took awhile to warm up! Try OR VietVet's advice and get her warmed up and see if it all of a suddent returns to normal. God only knows how much time and care is really spent on rebuilding the reman units and whether certain steps are taken or ignored in the essence of saving money at the company that remans. Ive seen some pretty crazy stuff over the years on everything from P/S and water pumps, alternators, starters and even long blocks.
 
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jimpec

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Thank you your suggestion are worth trying. I am going to put a heat lamp on pump today before I start truck. There are no oil leaks so level isn’t problem. T U
 

SnowDrifter

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I mean

Realistically, there's one of 2 things going on
1. The fluid in there doesn't like cold temps. Would be unusual, but not unheard of. Power steering honestly isn't that sensitive of a system. I'm a big proponent of synthetic fluids.
2. Level is either too high or too low. A bubble or two in the p/s system is normal because it churns around at fairly high speed. But it should absolutely not be foaming.
- Too low will cause it to draw in air
- Too high will not allow it to purge air. I genuinely couldn't tell you why because it doesn't really make sense to me. Only that it is. Like, the reservoir is just a column of fluid sitting above the pump inlet.... Best I can figure is that too high of a fluid level won't allow the air bubbles to settle to the surface and pop before the fluid cycles again, but that's a shot in the dark. Just something I've observed when bleeding the system in the past.


If you want to change it, the best way I've found to do this and get fresh fluid in the system is to:
- Evacuate fluid from the reservoir. A fluid extractor like a mityvac is a big help here. It's one of those tools that I've just taken to buy-once-cry-once because the darn things are so helpful
- Remove the return line to the reservoir and either attach the mityvac to it, or a drain hose
- Jack up the front wheels and with the engine off, turn the front wheels from lock-to-lock a bunch of times. This will help force the rest of the fluid out. If you have the fluid extractor hooked up, you'll get a good 90-95% of fluid out of the system

From there, you can fill it.
- Usual method is to reconnect the return line, fill the reservoir about half way, turn the wheels lock to lock, fill, turn, etc, until the reservoir level no longer changes. Then start the engine for a second or 2, check fluid level again, start engine again, turn from side to side, then turn everything off and go take a coffee/pizza break while you wait for the air and bubbles to settle out before doing your final check.
- Alternate method is to roll up and ear plug and plug the return hole in the reservoir. Fill up w/ fluid, then turn on the fluid extractor to draw fluid through the system before turning the key. Hook it all back up and finish the bleed as above.
Anecdotally, I've found the p/s system on my rig tends to prefer a slightly thicker fluid like royal purple. Though this may have been when my p/s pump was old and worn with a couple mm of end play in the shaft, YMMV(~150k miles)

Note: These systems take power steering fluid, not ATF. I have no idea what happens if fluids are mixed up here or why one or the other. Just reporting what the spec is.
 
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jimpec

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I mean

Realistically, there's one of 2 things going on
1. The fluid in there doesn't like cold temps. Would be unusual, but not unheard of. Power steering honestly isn't that sensitive of a system. I'm a big proponent of synthetic fluids.
2. Level is either too high or too low. A bubble or two in the p/s system is normal because it churns around at fairly high speed. But it should absolutely not be foaming.
- Too low will cause it to draw in air
- Too high will not allow it to purge air. I genuinely couldn't tell you why because it doesn't really make sense to me. Only that it is. Like, the reservoir is just a column of fluid sitting above the pump inlet.... Best I can figure is that too high of a fluid level won't allow the air bubbles to settle to the surface and pop before the fluid cycles again, but that's a shot in the dark. Just something I've observed when bleeding the system in the past.


If you want to change it, the best way I've found to do this and get fresh fluid in the system is to:
- Evacuate fluid from the reservoir. A fluid extractor like a mityvac is a big help here. It's one of those tools that I've just taken to buy-once-cry-once because the darn things are so helpful
- Remove the return line to the reservoir and either attach the mityvac to it, or a drain hose
- Jack up the front wheels and with the engine off, turn the front wheels from lock-to-lock a bunch of times. This will help force the rest of the fluid out. If you have the fluid extractor hooked up, you'll get a good 90-95% of fluid out of the system

From there, you can fill it.
- Usual method is to reconnect the return line, fill the reservoir about half way, turn the wheels lock to lock, fill, turn, etc, until the reservoir level no longer changes. Then start the engine for a second or 2, check fluid level again, start engine again, turn from side to side, then turn everything off and go take a coffee/pizza break while you wait for the air and bubbles to settle out before doing your final check.
- Alternate method is to roll up and ear plug and plug the return hole in the reservoir. Fill up w/ fluid, then turn on the fluid extractor to draw fluid through the system before turning the key. Hook it all back up and finish the bleed as above.
Anecdotally, I've found the p/s system on my rig tends to prefer a slightly thicker fluid like royal purple. Though this may have been when my p/s pump was old and worn with a couple mm of end play in the shaft, YMMV(~150k miles)

Note: These systems take power steering fluid, not ATF. I have no idea what happens if fluids are mixed up here or why one or the other. Just reporting what the spec is.
Snowdrifter, awesome reply. It all makes sense and is most informative. I figured a change of fluid to synthetic is worth a try. Moisture and contamination can be at fault. I have never done a flush so your instructions gives me confidence. I will just need a few days to get around to it. Merry Christmas to all! And thank you
 
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jimpec

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Snowdrifter, awesome reply. It all makes sense and is most informative. I figured a change of fluid to synthetic is worth a try. Moisture and contamination can be at fault. I have never done a flush so your instructions gives me confidence. I will just need a few days to get around to it. Merry Christmas to all! And thank you
Flushed system with new fluid until clear came out. Bleed air. And still no power. I can see oil flow when I look in tank. Must not mean much. New pump ordered from NAPA, with reservations. Wish I could check output pressure.
When I removed pump I discovered a switch on the supply side attached to the hose at tank.
Can only assume it is a pressure sensor. There is a 2 wire plug attached to it. And as luck would have it one of the wires is bare.
I will reply with the pump job outcome
 
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jimpec

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Flushed system with new fluid until clear came out. Bleed air. And still no power. I can see oil flow when I look in tank. Must not mean much. New pump ordered from NAPA, with reservations. Wish I could check output pressure.
When I removed pump I discovered a switch on the supply side attached to the hose at tank.
Can only assume it is a pressure sensor. There is a 2 wire plug attached to it. And as luck would have it one of the wires is bare.
I will reply with the pump job outcome
The switch is the EVO solenoid. When it fails one effect is loss of power steering. So there has been a fix which is simply a 180’ tubing and tank fitting that takes its place. GM prices is better than $100. I read that steer response changes. Also a hose for a 1996 Tahoe is bent so the fix isn't needed. I chose the tube. I now have power steering. I just haven’t driven it yet.
 

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