Powerstop rotor

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TEXCHEVY

TEXCHEVY

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Only front with ceramic pads, after a week and 200 miles no problem, no strange noise or buzzing for the moment, greater stopping power than others
 

yargnits

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I'm late to reply, but I'll agree with most here. I got the same style rotor and pads for my 2011 Caprice. In that application they aren't quite as good as what was on the car, but my rims don't turn black in an hour of driving anymore.

I really like them and I bet by now you do also. I also need to give them credit while potentially making myself look stoopid :D I've cursed new rotor manufacturers for years thinking their rotors were prone to warping. Not until I bought my first set of PowerStops did I know anything about breaking in the rotors/pads. The instructions that came with rotors/pads was an eye opener.
 

yargnits

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After mounting, powerstop recommends:
1) 5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. If you're forced to stop, either shift into neutral or give room in front so you can allow the vehicle to roll slightly while waiting for the light. The rotors will be very hot and holding down the brake pedal will allow the pad to create an imprint on the rotor. This is where the judder can originate from.
2) Then do 5 moderate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot.
3) After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed). This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure.
4) After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally.

Yeah, that's what I was talking about
 

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