Preparing to replace 4L60e myself.

[Rocket Man]

Yeah, but you have to pull the pan to drain it, right? Unless you use the method where you hook up a line to the cooler and start the engine to get as much out as you can, but doesn't it still make a mess when you pull the pan?

 

[Dneel81]

I was in the process of swapping in an NV4500. so I got distracted and just took transfer case down, undid shell bolts and took her down as slowly as possible. it worked well till it fell the last 6". then it got drained when it slipped like I mentioned.

 

[Merc1973]

UPDATE: First thanks for all who chimed in with tips and tricks!

I ran into an issue Sunday night. My back was acting up after lifting the transfer case to replace the leaky rear output seal. I am a Chiropractor with a herniated Lumbar spine disc... you would think I should know better not to lift something that heavy, late at night when Im exhausted. That lead to the decision to have a shop finish the job for me. I was up the point of trying to remove the torque converter bolts, laying on my back was not happening anymore. Used my AAA card, only one day left til it expired and had it towed to Calvin's Transmission shop in Eldersburg, MD. He charged my $580 to finish, since he also had to remove broken cat-back flange bolts and replace the rear main seal (while he's in there). In regards to the Dorman plate with pre-installed seal. It was no good. The seal was installed backwards and looked so cheap compared to the factory design. I went and bought him a NAPA-Felpro rear main gasket set that matched the factory style.

He finished very fast. Dropped it off 3:30 pm, he finished 11am next day. The shifts are adapting as you guys stated. The 2-3 is getting much better and not slipping out anymore. The truck is also more quiet on the highway now. I know have a P0135 (O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 1)). That's gotta to be the O2 sensor that I forgot to unplug when taking down the Y-pipe. The y-pipe was dangling all on the sensor wire, and I wondered why the pipe would not come down. Ooops. I will get a Sensor today and replace it. How hard is it to replace? Do I need to heat it up with a torch? Special tool?

 

[1_8TTony]

You will need a 22mm open end wrench.........there is plenty of room to get the wrench in there. You could buy a slotted socket designed specifically to remove/install the o2 sensor, but it's not necessary for the B1S1 sensor.

If any of the wires are damaged, you could just splice them back together.......nothing special about the wires.

 

[Merc1973]

Here is some documentation of my re-manufactured trans from Transmission Authority that came with it. I thought it was interesting.

 

[Merc1973]

Thanks. I thought i needed a 7/8" wrench. I will have to find a 22mm somewhere.

 

[bottomline2000]

Thanks. I thought i needed a 7/8" wrench. I will have to find a 22mm somewhere.

They rent the o2 sensor socket sets at some auto parts stores.

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[Merc1973]

It came out pretty easy with the 22mm wrench from Advance auto, it has a nice long handle for leverage. According the live data on my scan tool, it was stuck reading 0.540v. The new one is now giving fluctuated readings like the rest of them. Hope thats all it was as i dont want it to read too rich and kill my cat.

 

[ATIII]

I also got my replacement from Outlaw Transmissions, they build race transmissions, I pretty much have a beefed up 4l65e. Upgraded clutches, pinless accumulators, vette servos, 5 planetary gears instead of 4, only paid 1200, with core charge


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You have any contact info for these guys. I live in Brighton and Henderson is literally 5 mins from me.


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[01ssreda4]

The shifts are adapting as you guys stated.

No, they arent.