Pressurizing air shocks……

[ReaperHWK]

no, the pump is designed for intermittent use only
it is designed to run xx amount of seconds and shut off (per key cycle)
then (during the same key cycle) as far as i know or have experienced it only comes on again if the ride height sensors detect a load, say if you attached a trailer or a couple heavier people stood on the rear bumper.
then (also during the same key cycle) if the load is removed the relief valve opens and lets some pressure out
and I also "think" it is only able to detect that load while in park, otherwise it would be constantly trying to keep the vehicle "level" driving down the road
it's a set it and forget it type of thing, unless you are parked again and change the load (while parked)
and "my" theory about this is when it first pumps the shocks up it "remembers" the shock ohm load, then if you are out driving around and the air leaks out and you stop and park it doesn't try to re-pump the shocks because the "ohm" load is not greater than what it remembers so it does nothing.
I also believe this is how air ride delete (bypass) works using resistors because the ohm load never changes, so the system thinks all is well
nobody knows for sure except the designer.....

So I found the problem. Passenger air shock leaks like hell. Here’s a video.

The other one holds air except the rubber looks worn like the other one.

Do you suggest replacing both? Where is the cheapest place to buy the OEM shocks. Lastly, looks like an easy job and I’m assuming no programming is required at the dealer for a shock replacement?

This should be the end to my saga….. hopefully?

 

[Doubeleive]

So I found the problem. Passenger air shock leaks like hell. Here’s a video.

The other one holds air except the rubber looks worn like the other one.

Do you suggest replacing both? Where is the cheapest place to buy the OEM shocks. Lastly, looks like an easy job and I’m assuming no programming is required at the dealer for a shock replacement?

This should be the end to my saga….. hopefully?

ya that's a leak for sure
replacing them is plug-n-play, once you are all done with it, then you "could" do a ALC trim calibration but it's not required. all that would do is set the computer to see the "static" baseline of the suspension, vehicle parked level, unloaded, full tank of gas.

shocks are probably the cheapest on rockauto
the oem ones now have a lifetime warranty
arnott have a 2 year, they used to have lifetime but changed there policy, they are a quality replacement mine are around 5-6 years old and are still perfectly fine.
one thing to note is be aware that the rear abs sensor harness sits right on top of the frame directly above where the shock top bolt goes and it is not uncommon for people to accidentally knock the harness loose when changing shocks. so just keep that in mind if you do the shocks and then go drive it and get a abs error....

 

[ReaperHWK]

Thanks I’ll probably replace both of them then. My scanner does the ALC so that’s no problem.

Thanks for all your help you really helped me out a ton with this problem.

 

[Doubeleive]

Thanks I’ll probably replace both of them then. My scanner does the ALC so that’s no problem.

Thanks for all your help you really helped me out a ton with this problem.

ya I forgot to say it's probably wise to replace both as the other side will likely be the next to go in short order
same for wheel hubs and heater hose T"s

 

[Tahoe14]

There is a 5% discount code listed at the beginning of this forum under “preferred vendor sales”, every little bit helps.