pulled the trigger... LQ4/4L80 swap (6.0 vortec)

[foreverfalcon40]

Dont blame the foggy haze on Baking out the house man. lol

LMAO

Seems like your on the right path...

going to color match the block white too?

 

[ezdaar]

Lots of varnish could probably benefit from a big oil cooler and maybe some increase in oil change intervals in the future. Otherwise looking good.

Say hello to ****** PCV design. This is exactly what happens when blowby and burnt up oil mix for extended priods of time..
Look at that dipstick tube. yuck...

When you get it assembled, beshure to setup your PCV system right and with a Properly built catch can.
you will never have that again.

 

[branndon_b]

went to the stealership today and dropped like $280 in gaskets and seals today. gotta go back to work tomorrow night (friday), so i didn't get balls deep in anything today that i couldn't finish. anyhoo, bought a rear main seal, rear seal assembly gasket, intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets, and some other odds and ends. hope to be buttoning up the bottom end soon. so anyhoo, nothing spectacular to report as of now, but hopefully soon i'll have more for y'all.

 

[branndon_b]

got some more pics, nothing exciting, just flywheel removal and rear seal housing and rear seal removal. i'll post them up later tonight. gotta get ready for work.

 

[branndon_b]

got started on pulling the flywheel and replacing the rear seal and the rear seal housing today. there are 6 15mm bolts that hold the flywheel on, took those out, sprayed some pb blaster or pblaster or whatever that stuff is and gave some light love taps from the backside with a hammer.



better pic



so that's the ass of the crank right there, and that's the housing that holds the rear seal. better pic to follow.



so you pull those 10 or 15 10mm bolts on that silver plate, and off comes the plate with rear seal.

outside:


inside view:


and the gasket that seals the cover to the block:


straddle the cover on some blocks of wood, put a screwdriver in the back of the lip of the old seal, couple sprays of pb blaster, couple love taps with a BFH (big f***ing hammer) and the old seal comes on out.



hard to see in this pic, but there is an "outside" stamped on the seal, so you don't get it backwards.



pic of said BFH



i didn't put the new seal in yet, need to get some steel wool or crocus (spelling?) cloth and buff the outer race of the crank so the seal won't tear up prematurely, and some brake parts cleaner or carb cleaner to clean the mating surfaces. anyhow, like i said, nothing real spectacular to report, just an update. i'll try to remember to put the torque settings on this thread as i go back together with it so maybe it'll be worthwhile for someone that cares to do this or has to do this later. have a good weekend subscribed threadwatchers.

 

[AtomicHoe094]

My dad has a 5.3 in his avvy, hes changed the knock sensors (2 of them) about 3 times in the last 5 years. Acdelco brand and there still going bad. So finally he replaced the whole knock sensor harness out (300 bucks for the harness and 2 knock sensors)

Might want to buy new ones since you have your intake manifold off already..

 

[branndon_b]

may be a good idea there adam. the knock sensor covers are kinda sketchy anyway. but i hear they're a pain in the ass to get out though.

---------- Post added at 08:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:47 PM ----------

and for ls motor owners, this may be of some help here...

http://www.afbforums.com/index.php?/topic/29478-ls1-torque-specs/

again
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1

 

[992dr]

Those links are great.
Thanks for sharing.

 

[branndon_b]

found this too. http://www.pleasurecraft.com/manuals/L510016.pdf

 

[SunlitComet]

Archived.