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We. Know.Love executive decisions...have to do that shit around my house often....
Edit: Just you know.... nothing to do with yer build..I like to hear myself talk sometimes
Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)
- Thread starter randeez
- Start date
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randeez
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looks like sonnax makes a forged chromoly stock replacement i might go ahead and grab/swap before i get this thing on the road for a little added security
https://www.sonnax.com/parts/3340-slip-yoke
https://www.sonnax.com/parts/3340-slip-yoke
Can’t go wrong with anything Sonnax.looks like sonnax makes a forged chromoly stock replacement i might go ahead and grab/swap before i get this thing on the road for a little added security
https://www.sonnax.com/parts/3340-slip-yoke
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randeez
Full Access Member
yea it didnt really occur to me that it would be built with the short yoke, i think the longer length also helps support the output shaft of the tcase from deflection. kinda sucks cause that yoke is like 180bux though lol, going to call them today and see if they'll take it back even though it was installed on a ujoint
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
Love executive decisions...have to do that shit around my house often....
Edit: Just you know.... nothing to do with yer build..I like to hear myself talk sometimes
lol
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randeez
Full Access Member
hey 
tuning sucks.
sooo im not too sure how it ran at all on the old tune. the ltft must of been like 50% off in some spots, VE table was pretty much useless.
wasted a week or so chasing down knock at idle, thought was something mechanical, ended up throwing like 8 more degrees of timing at it and it was happy.
had a maf tune that it could be driven atleast, but it needed the sd tables dialed in
if anyone if interested.... and daring. trying to tune the MAF and VE at the same time; its been around for a while but with my problems i figured id take a serious look at it. theres a few posts throughout hptuners about it, but basically. the pcm can measure the VE accurately using the maf sensor and o2 sensors (this is why its a lot easier to dial in the MAF). soooo basically you can plot the ideal VE (found with the maf), on the VE table and use the maths function to do a correction against the speed density values it.
that got me probaby 80% of the way there, got the SD tables hammered out. running pretty good, didnt want to start or idle and had a little "hiccup" while cruising. after chasing that for a few days - going full SD tune, turns out the MAF in the charge pipe was reading erratically at very low air flow and causing the problems.
no more maf at this point but still a pain to get it to idle with this little cam in it. and then gotta try and make it start by just hitting the key, need to give it some throttle to stable out after hunting it down for a minute or so.
but otherwise, it still rips! wastegate surprisingly isnt getting demolished by the bigger turbo. its probably better now than it was on the 80mm - on just the gate spring(6psi spring) its opening up about 7.5psi.
mech problems so far:
killed front driveshaft seal on the t-case, replaced with gm seal from dealer was like 96 bux lol. skf makes a seal, and i ordered but is prob going to take a week
and i think pssenger side rear caliper is froze up or something, that wheel is dusted to hell and the locker seems to kick in almost immediately under any throttle
tuning sucks.
sooo im not too sure how it ran at all on the old tune. the ltft must of been like 50% off in some spots, VE table was pretty much useless.
wasted a week or so chasing down knock at idle, thought was something mechanical, ended up throwing like 8 more degrees of timing at it and it was happy.
had a maf tune that it could be driven atleast, but it needed the sd tables dialed in
if anyone if interested.... and daring. trying to tune the MAF and VE at the same time; its been around for a while but with my problems i figured id take a serious look at it. theres a few posts throughout hptuners about it, but basically. the pcm can measure the VE accurately using the maf sensor and o2 sensors (this is why its a lot easier to dial in the MAF). soooo basically you can plot the ideal VE (found with the maf), on the VE table and use the maths function to do a correction against the speed density values it.
that got me probaby 80% of the way there, got the SD tables hammered out. running pretty good, didnt want to start or idle and had a little "hiccup" while cruising. after chasing that for a few days - going full SD tune, turns out the MAF in the charge pipe was reading erratically at very low air flow and causing the problems.
no more maf at this point but still a pain to get it to idle with this little cam in it. and then gotta try and make it start by just hitting the key, need to give it some throttle to stable out after hunting it down for a minute or so.
but otherwise, it still rips! wastegate surprisingly isnt getting demolished by the bigger turbo. its probably better now than it was on the 80mm - on just the gate spring(6psi spring) its opening up about 7.5psi.
mech problems so far:
killed front driveshaft seal on the t-case, replaced with gm seal from dealer was like 96 bux lol. skf makes a seal, and i ordered but is prob going to take a week
and i think pssenger side rear caliper is froze up or something, that wheel is dusted to hell and the locker seems to kick in almost immediately under any throttle
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randeez
Full Access Member
nah its all good... just annoying having it all right there and some fuggin clickity clicks on the keyboard are what is stopping me from driving it.
thinkin i found another pita thing to fix also. ever since i swapped the 4l80 its had a brutal 1>2 shift anytime, cold, hot, idle shift at 10mph, wot was actually smoother than light shift. i'd been through the tables a million times adding torque management, slowing the shift, adaptives... in the scanner it would call for max line pressure pretty much every time. noticed the only time it wasnt was on the 3>4 there would be some action on the force motor duty cycle.
there the reg "pattern x shift pressure table" that it should reference, but it looks like its stuck in a "brake/power on" shift pressure table which is max's out for those shifts and is gradual in the 3>4. copied the values down, not sure why its using that table but will see tonight if it softens it up
thinkin i found another pita thing to fix also. ever since i swapped the 4l80 its had a brutal 1>2 shift anytime, cold, hot, idle shift at 10mph, wot was actually smoother than light shift. i'd been through the tables a million times adding torque management, slowing the shift, adaptives... in the scanner it would call for max line pressure pretty much every time. noticed the only time it wasnt was on the 3>4 there would be some action on the force motor duty cycle.
there the reg "pattern x shift pressure table" that it should reference, but it looks like its stuck in a "brake/power on" shift pressure table which is max's out for those shifts and is gradual in the 3>4. copied the values down, not sure why its using that table but will see tonight if it softens it up
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randeez
Full Access Member
went home yesterday, reworked the charge pipe that has the maf sensor in it. i put some unnecessary bends in it to have the charge pipe come up straight in the engine bay and look nice but form<function - so its back at an angle and should read more consistantly. it does run so damn sweet on speed density though so i prob will delete it but im hoping i can match the idle characteristics of it with the maf before i delete it. sick of messing with it last night didnt bother to see if it helped so will try tonight
also drained the catch can, had a lot more in it than i thought it would, about 30% of a standard water bottles worth? 4-5oz - but engine is fresh so prob some blow by till the rings seat.
i need to get it aligned after swapping all of the arms/spindle/tire rod ends, pulls to the right a little was trying to get it tuned up enough to run it over to friends shop and have him do it.
the transcooler that i installed is so-so. it'll stay maybe 15-20* under the coolant temp until i beat on it then itll come up to around the coolant temp. wants a lot of air flow to drop - i'll notice at like 45mph it takes a while, while at 80+ it takes just a few mins. the trucool 40k seems to work a lot better at keeping the temp down, the slim wide area does more than the thickness. havent seen anything over 180* yet so i'll prob just leave it and see how it works out.
also drained the catch can, had a lot more in it than i thought it would, about 30% of a standard water bottles worth? 4-5oz - but engine is fresh so prob some blow by till the rings seat.
i need to get it aligned after swapping all of the arms/spindle/tire rod ends, pulls to the right a little was trying to get it tuned up enough to run it over to friends shop and have him do it.
the transcooler that i installed is so-so. it'll stay maybe 15-20* under the coolant temp until i beat on it then itll come up to around the coolant temp. wants a lot of air flow to drop - i'll notice at like 45mph it takes a while, while at 80+ it takes just a few mins. the trucool 40k seems to work a lot better at keeping the temp down, the slim wide area does more than the thickness. havent seen anything over 180* yet so i'll prob just leave it and see how it works out.
