Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)

[randeez]

it is... im sick of having to "engineer" everything at this point.
everything needs to mounted, so i need to make up some tabs or weld some brackets up. then it needs to be wired, harness extended, whatever. then plumb in water, or oil, or trans fluid, or whatever to it and make lines for that, choose the fittings for it, see what kind of hose ive got around.
even everything that ive done before and am putting back pretty much where it was, im like ehh i can do this differently/better.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Damn! Sounds nice! I can't wait to see you run it. What tune is in it that you got it to run? Your old existing tune?

 

[randeez]

yep same ol tune as before, it was already set up for speed density so aside from a little free-er flowing exhaust its all the same. which it does seem to like having the exhaust much more opened up.

 

[randeez]

(I still say she needs meth…) [emoji57]

you may be getting your way...
i'm going to try to stuff one of these behind the trim panels on one side or the other.
i dont have any of the jack crap on the driverside, and i may just completely remove the rear ac stuff from the other side
except im just going to use it as a2w tank, by just doin a quick measurement it seems like itll work if i gut everything from behind the panel, keeping it hidden would be sweet

 

[Rocket Man]

you may be getting your way...
i'm going to try to stuff one of these behind the trim panels on one side or the other.
i dont have any of the jack crap on the driverside, and i may just completely remove the rear ac stuff from the other side
except im just going to use it as a2w tank, by just doin a quick measurement it seems like itll work if i gut everything from behind the panel, keeping it hidden would be sweet

There ya go. You already disconnected the rear hvac so might as well remove the components. The truck is ruined anyway.

 

[randeez]

There ya go. You already disconnected the rear hvac so might as well remove the components. The truck is ruined anyway.

bingo lol

I could just leave the blower in there and let it run air across 10 gallons of 30° coolant to keep the rear cabin cool

 

[George B]

bingo lol

I could just leave the blower in there and let it run air across 10 gallons of 30° coolant to keep the rear cabin cool

A swamp cooler in a luxury ute. It’s track name could be Swamp Thing.

 

[Rocket Man]

A swamp cooler in a luxury ute. It’s track name could be Swamp Thing.

There’s already one on Street Outlaws. It’s a Chevy II wagon. The thing is badass.

 

[Sam Harris]

There’s already one on Street Outlaws. It’s a Chevy II wagon. The thing is badass.

Daaaaamn

 

[randeez]

finallyyyyyyyyyyy mounted the steer/hydroboost pump after avoiding it for the past few weeks. its about 16" tall so its a pita to place it somewhere - all the open room under the hood i have is on the passenger side, if i put it over there i would have to run lines all the way around the engine bay. so didnt want to do that....ended up moving the chiller brick over about 3 inches to the passenger side and mounting pump next to it behind the front bumper. i will have to remove the bumper cover to ever do anything to it, but it has worked flawlessly in the couple of months ive had it, i'll leave the bumper off for a few short drives to make sure its completely bled out and forget about it. that was kind of last thing i actually needed to do to drive it around.

finishing the exhaust off doesnt really need to be done to be driven - maybe dump the wastegates somewhere
still has stock fuel pump working fine...so can putt putt around.. this 427 prob makes enough hp to max out the stock pump with no boost
and can halfass a charge pipe together

that meth tank i ordered looked like it was gonna be a few weeks out according to summit, but it was shipped today so i'll prob get to pulling out those trim pieces and see if itll work (or what i need to do to make it work). removing the stock refrigerant and coolant lines for the rear hvac i need to pull the running board, rear tire/liner and should come out pretty easy. going to be running 16an lines all the way to the front should nice and $$$. ive seen people use like a clear nylon reinforced 1"+ hose which is cheaper but not sure if itll sweat and drip...the braided rubber hose doesnt sweat so if thats what it needs i'll have to suck it up