Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)

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randeez

randeez

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their "T5" (terminator they call it) build starts at $5500 before add ons.

4L80s from what ive seen arent all that complicated, standard rebuilds are 1500-2000 with out needing any hard parts, no idea what rossler charges for that, but i dont think its much off given the price for all of the billet parts. the only other thing he quoted me was the build under this one, difference being the 36 element sprag but itself adds about $900 to the cost, T4 was $4600 iirc. said i would probably be fine with the T4 and its what they recommended.

T4 build adds billet intermediate shaft over the T3 build, cost is another $500 or so....so on and so forth down the line, next level down billet input/output, drum etc. till you get down to completely stock build. the rebuild costs the same the billet hard parts drive the price up.
If i had someone local that i trusted i would probably have probably just let them build it with all the same parts, but i dont know of anyone most local places are all about shift kits and using stock replacement HD parts are their stronger builds - not very confidence inspiring. Rossler seem to massage the valve body to their own specs, clearance a few of the fluid passages, etc.

as far as how much i like them - dunno yet, phone conversations have been good, informative, helpful. havent really found a bad review about product or customer service otherwise. I had a few companies that i was looking through and they just seemed the most responsive... my first contact is usually just a quick call - this is what i have, i need x, what can you do - some places just seem like they couldnt care less, these guys seemed genuinely interested and wanted to know some details, expectations, use.
they have a few 1000 to 1500+hp 4l80s running around, with much stupider setups than I (for a while at least).
 

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their "T5" (terminator they call it) build starts at $5500 before add ons.

4L80s from what ive seen arent all that complicated, standard rebuilds are 1500-2000 with out needing any hard parts, no idea what rossler charges for that, but i dont think its much off given the price for all of the billet parts. the only other thing he quoted me was the build under this one, difference being the 36 element sprag but itself adds about $900 to the cost, T4 was $4600 iirc. said i would probably be fine with the T4 and its what they recommended.

T4 build adds billet intermediate shaft over the T3 build, cost is another $500 or so....so on and so forth down the line, next level down billet input/output, drum etc. till you get down to completely stock build. the rebuild costs the same the billet hard parts drive the price up.
If i had someone local that i trusted i would probably have probably just let them build it with all the same parts, but i dont know of anyone most local places are all about shift kits and using stock replacement HD parts are their stronger builds - not very confidence inspiring. Rossler seem to massage the valve body to their own specs, clearance a few of the fluid passages, etc.

as far as how much i like them - dunno yet, phone conversations have been good, informative, helpful. havent really found a bad review about product or customer service otherwise. I had a few companies that i was looking through and they just seemed the most responsive... my first contact is usually just a quick call - this is what i have, i need x, what can you do - some places just seem like they couldnt care less, these guys seemed genuinely interested and wanted to know some details, expectations, use.
they have a few 1000 to 1500+hp 4l80s running around, with much stupider setups than I (for a while at least).

Check with FLT? Just curious if you did and how they made you feel, not interested in swaying you. I had a Level 3 (or was it 4?) 4L65 for my build. Unfortunately, I never used it since sold the project. Sold the trans a couple years ago and the buyer reported recently that he's still beating the ever-living shit out of it and it operates like it did on day 1. I bought it for an S10 with about 500HP. He has it in a turbo ex-cab Silverado with 700+ on slicks, so more weight, power and traction.
 
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randeez

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nope, looks pretty good but price would have ended up about the same with core, aluminum drum, valve body? new "manifold pressure switch" means vb isnt computer controlled
 
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randeez

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tis done.

started out the day with the goal of atleast getting the transfer case out so i can bolt it to the 4l80 adapter and get an output shaft measurement. to do that had to drop drive shafts, to do that had to pull the front sway bar and crossover... to pull the cross over i have to pull the down pipe... to pull it i had to remove a section of exhaust, etc ,etc. took out the aux trans cooler cause the 4l80 lines are on the other side and will prob have to redo most of them.
removed the transmission crossmember to get the transfer case out, wasnt to bad top bolt a little bit of a pain in the ass, but just really need to break them loose then can remove by hand. at that point there really wasnt anything else holding the bellhousing bolts on. removed the shift linkage, fuel line supports, and wiring to the trans. took it old school and used three feet of extensions and got all the top bolts out of the bellhousing with the trans jack under it to support it, removed the rest. she came right out. at this point i was thinkin damn trans jack really makes this easy. started lowering it down leveling it out with the pedestal knobs n crap got it almost all the way down and the threaded rod for the tilt just ripped the nut off of it and front of the trans hit the ground lol, what a pos. so i dragged the trans out from under the truck just threw it on a pallet and wrapped it up for now.
i need to pull the flex plate back off and replace the rear main seal, had a little mishap with pcv system and blew some oil out of it, after i fixed it there was still a little drip but not sure if it was residual or seal bad so i grabbed new gasket and seal no real rush to get that done anytime soon though.
 
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randeez

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Measuring for 4l80 output shaft...you can see the 6l80 is about 1/2" from bottoming out so guessing this doesnt have to be so critical.

Looks like 3-3/4 to the lip, about 3/16 for that lip, hold it off the back atleast a 1/4" ...should be fine at about 3-1/4" of output shaft

Also, transfer case sounds a little crunchy , will probably split tomorrow and see if it's worth saving. I have been eyeing the older np149 awd transfer case as it uses a viscous coupler to split power between front/rear. But would require a machined input shaft to mate to 4l80 (or 6l80)
 
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randeez

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Took it apart and actually everything looks fine, will prob just do bearings, seals, and chain ~ $250ish for now to get it back on the road. Swapping xfer case later I can prep everything and should only be down a day

There is a bronze bushing at the rear outlet of the case that I'm not sure if I am supposed to replace but it was a mfer to get out. Not clear if it comes in the rebuilt kits, trying to find
 

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