Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)

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randeez

randeez

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It'd be cool if there was a heat shrink hose clamp big enough. Biggest I found was this: https://www.jegs.com/i/Gates/465/32979/10002/-1, but, it might not be long enough to span that gap.
its only temporary, i put a 4"clamp on it right behind the vband flange(its tightened and bottomed out though) and a worm gear after that, that is tightened down

been tweaking the startup, idle is pretty damn good now. i dont think itll drop any more rpm without being erratic.
the problem i have is cranking and the first few seconds are OK i left that airflow pretty high to kinda jump up to 1200ish rpm and then start tapering down, but then it immediately commands super rich for like 10 seconds and rpm drops way down. and then enters closed loop and smooths out.
best i can tell its some test function of the o2 sensors before it goes into closed loop but i cant figure out how to tune through it. if im sitting in it a couple taps on the gas pedal and its fine, but annoying. best i can tell after the cranking air flow, it should look at the open loop table till it goes into closed loop. but that table doesnt tell it to go way rich. and neither does anywhere else. my afr is skewed because of big injector scaling, its doubled what it actually is. so commanding 15.1 is actually 7.5 etc. but you can see the middle row in orange is the idle rpm being called for. the purple line is the actual rpm second pic shows the afr in the first couple seconds before it drops
@Dantheman1540 what you up to

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Dantheman1540

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I’m still having a similar issue with mine where it for some reason drops to 10afr and sometimes as low as 9 just after startup and lasts about 30seconds to a minute. If I try driving during that time it runs like garbage, jerking and bucking and will stall if I let off. Then suddenly it acts totally fine and will be good the rest of the trip.
 
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randeez

randeez

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Yea I threw abunch of airflow at it in the 1200rpm idle flow cells and it gets better. But then it hangs the rpm coming to a stop around there.
 
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randeez

randeez

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Waiting on Mr ups.
Catch cans had very little, I probably haven't checked them in 2-3 months
coolant staying topped off
oil used to burn like a qt every short oil change always running it at 7k rpm. Havent noticed it burning much putt putting around will prob still be about a qt every oil change. I usually run it a little over the hatch anyway so plenty of time to catch if it is.
Last day I was out with it the volts on the dash were showing "low" 12v ish. I thought I had it in tune to just be 14v all the time. No battery light or warning popped up or anything. I also had it on/idling/20mph a lot of the day may have just wanted a little break. It would show 12v for a while then back up to 14v, for a few minutes, back to 12v. Was weird. I checked all the connections and cleaned the ground to the block. Not going to swap it just yet, I'll give it another try.

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Does it have stock style alternator? I can't remember if you changed that or not. The avalanche and the Yukon will show low voltage here and there but it's supposed to do that. Never below 12v on the dash though.
 
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randeez

randeez

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E-fans cycling with the A/C and drawing the power down?
doubt it...this was happening while i was cruising at 2000rpm alt should have easily been putting out max amps
Does it have stock style alternator? I can't remember if you changed that or not. The avalanche and the Yukon will show low voltage here and there but it's supposed to do that. Never below 12v on the dash though.
yea i know they did something but this is lower than i ever usually see it, and i think i changed whatever i had to so it wouldnt do it in tune. i just changed a few more settings for duty cycle crap too to see if it helps. but looking at a few logs over the past weeks it seems to be charging at like 13.6ish o it may just be getting weak
 

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