No need to be like that, but your opinion is noted. I never said my way is right, didn’t you read? I said to make your own decision. Your sarcasm is also noted once again.
Rear Main Oil Seal
- Thread starter Larryjb
- Start date
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Got things back together. Unfortunately, the leak is still there after doing the oil pan gasket. But, there is oil dripping from the back of the engine, off one of the starter motor mounting bolts.
I suspected the rear main seal, so I guess I have to do it now. The only problem I have is that GM Autotrac II is rediculously expensive here in Canada. I'll probably drop the transfer case without draining it. I'm not sure about transmission fluid. That might be a similar problem too.
I suspected the rear main seal, so I guess I have to do it now. The only problem I have is that GM Autotrac II is rediculously expensive here in Canada. I'll probably drop the transfer case without draining it. I'm not sure about transmission fluid. That might be a similar problem too.
JonnyTahoe
Full Access Member
Fel-Pro also is good. For 50 bucks it better be.
JonnyTahoe
Full Access Member
Don't feel bad Larry I spent hours just getting prepared and jacking my Tahoe up with such over-kill in the safety department because I just hate being under these trucks. I had so many extra floor jacks and 4X4's in various places under the truck it actually made it harder than it should of been because all my jacks were in my way during the Multi-night job.
Thanks John, I don't feel bad. I figured it was the rear main, but I knew the oil pan had to be done so I took a chance. The only "extra" work that has to repeated to do the rear main will be to remove the front drive shaft and cross member. That will take me 10 or 15 minutes. The real pain is getting fluids. Stuff is SO expensive here in Canada.
Funny you mention jack stands. I don't feel comfortable unless I've got my Tahoe sitting on 6 T jackstands. I don't think the job will be too bad, just a lot to take off. I've got most of the parts already. Either ACDelco or Felpro gaskets, I've got a nice low profile transmission jack.
Funny you mention jack stands. I don't feel comfortable unless I've got my Tahoe sitting on 6 T jackstands. I don't think the job will be too bad, just a lot to take off. I've got most of the parts already. Either ACDelco or Felpro gaskets, I've got a nice low profile transmission jack.
JonnyTahoe
Full Access Member
You should drain the case if you have never done it before. You do not have to use Autotrac. My trans had a internal seal failure and it filled my T-case full of auto store trans fluid I never noticed any problems till the trans itself failed.
I'll drain the transfer case as soon as the border reopens. I can get Autotrac II cheap from Amazon.com, and pick it up easily from across the border. Besides, I should probably do that plate that protects the case. Again, getting parts into Canada is not so easy right now.
JonnyTahoe
Full Access Member
Sucks your Fluids are so expensive. Hey how about that ''Rickafix video''. Are you kidding me. I had a hard time just watching it. The truck was 2 inches from his face. Got to give the guy Credit for taking the time to make a video of that nightmare job and remember that was his Second time doing it because he Did a fast job the first time and cut a few corners because it sucks working under a five thousand pound truck and he also still had a leak and ended up doing it all over a second time.
JonnyTahoe
Full Access Member
Never been to Canadian boarder and I'm less than 500 mi. from it.
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JonnyTahoe
Full Access Member
If I were to do the Oil Pan Gasket again as much as I don't like removing Steering Parts, I would remove that Steering Link in a second. That Link made everything take so much longer. Working on your back upside down sucks. My Yukon I got last September is absolutely rust free from Richardson Texas. It's a RWD 4X2. Try finding one of those in the upper Midwest. I can't even wait to replace the Oil Pump Tube O-ring and the Pan gasket should almost be kinda fun no front Differential.
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