Rocket Man's 02 Denali Build Thread AKA "THE BEAST"

[pwtr02ss]

T-TGM-HR, T9138 TOOL, 4L60E / 4L80E / ALLISON 1000, HARNESS REMOVAL TOOL - PATC - TransmissionCenter.net

T-TGM-HR, T9138 4L60E / 4L80E Internal Wiring Harness Removal Tool.

transmissioncenter.net

That's the tool I have. Works great

 

[Rocket Man]

T-TGM-HR, T9138 TOOL, 4L60E / 4L80E / ALLISON 1000, HARNESS REMOVAL TOOL - PATC - TransmissionCenter.net

T-TGM-HR, T9138 4L60E / 4L80E Internal Wiring Harness Removal Tool.

transmissioncenter.net

That's the tool I have. Works great

Thanks, forgot about the tool cost. So $220 for the harness and tool.

 

[randeez]

T-TGM-HR, T9138 TOOL, 4L60E / 4L80E / ALLISON 1000, HARNESS REMOVAL TOOL - PATC - TransmissionCenter.net

T-TGM-HR, T9138 4L60E / 4L80E Internal Wiring Harness Removal Tool.

transmissioncenter.net

That's the tool I have. Works great

Thanks, forgot about the tool cost. So $220 for the harness and tool.

A good friend would let you borrow theirs *cough,cough*

 

[pwtr02ss]

Thanks, forgot about the tool cost. So $220 for the harness and tool.

A good friend would let you borrow theirs *cough,cough*

Not what you said when I asked to take rip in the ol turbo, tallywacker tantalizer

But, @Rocketman, Shoot me an address in pm section and I'll ship it over.

 

[randeez]

Not what you said when I asked to take rip in the ol turbo, tallywacker tantalizer

But, @Rocketman, Shoot me an address in pm section and I'll ship it over.

as soon as i get too

 

[Rocket Man]

Not what you said when I asked to take rip in the ol turbo, tallywacker tantalizer

But, @Rocketman, Shoot me an address in pm section and I'll ship it over.

Ok, if I decide to replace the harness I sure will. I’m still at the lazy a s s no motivation stage. I was trying to avoid any more difficult work until I did the easier stuff first. I hate laying on my back and working overhead. Or I should say my back hates it. I’m going to check all 14 or so grounds and the main positive cables and then the neutral safety switch and harness, then pull the trans harness back and inspect and clean the connector and the wires themselves. Then hopefully BB will get back to me and I can decide on what’s next. Good thing I’m not in a hurry.

 

[Rocket Man]

They work by DC current producing a magnetic field to make the switch move (hence the copper windings). Trans fluid won't keep the magnet from working on a circuit like that, but when fluid leaks into the harness where ALL the pins are in very close proximity to each other, see that could cause issues since the pins are so close together and some of the circuits are relying on small amounts of current to tell the computer whats up or to do something. When ATF wears or gets hot it can pass some current and the proximity of the pins makes that even more likely. The potting inside the trans side of the plug or female side is what keeps the pins from leaking atf.

I keep going back to this, especially since this only happens when the trans gets to 150*, I mean it happens right after that. Every time. I can watch the trans temp gauge and as soon as it gets to that temp and it gets in 3rd gear it won’t shift up or down on its own, just stays in 3rd unless I manually pull it down to 2nd. @Stonefort do you have a link to those videos?

 

[Rocket Man]

I just spent a couple hours watching Precision Transmission videos on YT and never saw them mention the harness connector or anything about fluid in it but they did mention the "pillow switch" as they called it which is the manifold pressure switch. They said it tells the computer that each shift is completed and if it fails, it goes into limp mode. So it looks like if I decide to drop the pan again , I will replace that switch as well as the harness. BTW, @pwtr02ss I saw one guy just used a 1 1/4" socket to release that connector- do you think that would work? Edit: nvm, I dont have a 32 mm or 1 1/4"

 

[pwtr02ss]

I just spent a couple hours watching Precision Transmission videos on YT and never saw them mention the harness connector or anything about fluid in it but they did mention the "pillow switch" as they called it which is the manifold pressure switch. They said it tells the computer that each shift is completed and if it fails, it goes into limp mode. So it looks like if I decide to drop the pan again , I will replace that switch as well as the harness. BTW, @pwtr02ss I saw one guy just used a 1 1/4" socket to release that connector- do you think that would work? Edit: nvm, I dont have a 32 mm or 1 1/4"

Ive used a hose clamp on the 4 prior to building mine. Takes some tries but it works. Then I saw the tool was only $18 and decided I was done messing with it and bought the tool.

 

[Rocket Man]

Ive used a hose clamp on the 4 prior to building mine. Takes some tries but it works. Then I saw the tool was only $18 and decided I was done messing with it and bought the tool.

Any thoughts on that manifold pressure switch? Ever had one go bad? It sucks this year doesn't have a separate TCM so the Tech2 doesn't really have a way to test things like this. The menu for the trans is in Engine Data 2 and it's almost nonexistent.