Rocket Man's 02 Denali Build Thread AKA "THE BEAST"

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Tonyrodz

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Today I was on a long drive, headed to the ocean beach. I decided to stop about halfway there at an excellent beach on the Columbia River instead and on the way home, in temps over 100, my truck overheated. I stopped and checked for leaks or low coolant and saw nothing wrong but I noticed neither Efans were working, and of course I had the A/C on so at the very least, the passenger side should have been running. In fact both sides should have been on. I got it towed home and my first thought was the fan relays on my conversion harness. I had to replace the one for the passenger side already. I found there were 2 bad ones this time. On www.ls1fans.com 's website, they recommend replacing relays every year so it looks like I'll add that to my maintenance list. And I'll be carrying spares from now on. Stupid damn relays can stop a truck.
You'd think relays would last longer then 1 yr.
 
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Rocket Man

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You'd think relays would last longer then 1 yr.
The fans draw alot of current, that's part of the reason I bought a 265 amp alternator. And I can still see the voltage take a small hit when a fan turns on. But yeah, I think there's something different in the way the OEM harness works, I can't see GM making people change relays every year. Also, I can see where there's been a lot of heat at the relay block where they plug in. I ordered a block set and relay set that have the highest reviews on Amazon and plan on replacing the whole thing, sockets and all.
 
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Rocket Man

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I've had a problem with start-up since I installed the blower. If the truck sat for any amount of time I would have to crank it for awhile before it would start but I had run a few diagnostics and one of those involved turning the ignition on and off a few times to see if I was losing fuel pressure and if I did that it would fire right up. I had Justin @ Blackbear analyze a start-up log and he said he didn't see anything unusual but I must have a fuel pressure bleed-off problem and it was either the fuel pump allowing fuel to drain back into the tank or a leaking fuel pressure regulator. A light bulb went off in my head, as I remembered that the part of the Whipple instructions involving the FPR were not there and I had involved BB in trying to figure out wtf. There was no mention of a FPR or how to hook up the fuel lines. BB had told me to R&R my FPR but besides that they weren't much help so I winged it. So I checked it out and sure enough I could wiggle it in the housing that Whipple had furnished. So yesterday I received a service kit for the FPR and today I removed the FPR and installed the kit. In the process, I noticed a small o-ring that wasn't in my old FPR. I looked up the install on YouTube and saw how it all goes together, reinstalled everything and she fires right up every time so far. It feels way tighter in the housing. And the weird thing is, when I was first looking on Rockauto at FPR's, the kit popped up and I wrote down the p/n but now I can't find it anywhere except on Ebay or Amazon. I even did a parts search on Rockauto and it's not there, and if I look at FPR and related it's not there, nor any of the GM parts sites. It's 12570622 if anyone wants one. I paid $18 shipped which is way cheaper than the entire FPR which is a ridiculous $65 for an OEM one .

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bottomline2000

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I've had a problem with start-up since I installed the blower. If the truck sat for any amount of time I would have to crank it for awhile before it would start but I had run a few diagnostics and one of those involved turning the ignition on and off a few times to see if I was losing fuel pressure and if I did that it would fire right up. I had Justin @ Blackbear analyze a start-up log and he said he didn't see anything unusual but I must have a fuel pressure bleed-off problem and it was either the fuel pump allowing fuel to drain back into the tank or a leaking fuel pressure regulator. A light bulb went off in my head, as I remembered that the part of the Whipple instructions involving the FPR were not there and I had involved BB in trying to figure out wtf. There was no mention of a FPR or how to hook up the fuel lines. BB had told me to R&R my FPR but besides that they weren't much help so I winged it. So I checked it out and sure enough I could wiggle it in the housing that Whipple had furnished. So yesterday I received a service kit for the FPR and today I removed the FPR and installed the kit. In the process, I noticed a small o-ring that wasn't in my old FPR. I looked up the install on YouTube and saw how it all goes together, reinstalled everything and she fires right up every time so far. It feels way tighter in the housing. And the weird thing is, when I was first looking on Rockauto at FPR's, the kit popped up and I wrote down the p/n but now I can't find it anywhere except on Ebay or Amazon. I even did a parts search on Rockauto and it's not there, and if I look at FPR and related it's not there, nor any of the GM parts sites. It's 12570622 if anyone wants one. I paid $18 shipped which is way cheaper than the entire FPR which is a ridiculous $65 for an OEM one .

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That's good info. I went thru 3 FPR after my engine swap and none seemed to work as well as the factory one. I had the hard start but my diaphragm was broke and bled fuel into the intake. One FPR read low and the other one buzzed. Ridiculous considering how much they cost. How does it look installed?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk
 
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Rocket Man

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That's good info. I went thru 3 FPR after my engine swap and none seemed to work as well as the factory one. I had the hard start but my diaphragm was broke and bled fuel into the intake. One FPR read low and the other one buzzed. Ridiculous considering how much they cost. How does it look installed?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk
Yeah I was amazed when I saw a new ACDelco was $65. It looks just like it did before, in the upper picture. That piece just bolts to the Whipple fuel rail on the driver side.
 

bottomline2000

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Today I was on a long drive, headed to the ocean beach. I decided to stop about halfway there at an excellent beach on the Columbia River instead and on the way home, in temps over 100, my truck overheated. I stopped and checked for leaks or low coolant and saw nothing wrong but I noticed neither Efans were working, and of course I had the A/C on so at the very least, the passenger side should have been running. In fact both sides should have been on. I got it towed home and my first thought was the fan relays on my conversion harness. I had to replace the one for the passenger side already. I found there were 2 bad ones this time. On www.ls1fans.com 's website, they recommend replacing relays every year so it looks like I'll add that to my maintenance list. And I'll be carrying spares from now on. Stupid damn relays can stop a truck.
OK, you have the same issue I had. That ** alternator will cook relays. Low voltage is bad for them as well so make sure that alternator doesn't lag at idle. This was one of the problems I had with my load boss alt.. I kept melting the relays in the same place and it seems I was just sending too much current thru them. I upgraded my harness to accept 80 amp relays with the larger blades and haven't had to change a relay since. I had to repin all the wires in the new relay blocks since the blades are all so much bigger. I did find my connections on my harness were crimped and sauntered and I read this can cause resistance so I just crimped the new connections.

I got tired of pulling blown relays and keeping a set handy. I found a guy with a random site with everything needed to do the swap and a nice ratchetimg crimper on Amazon. Check out the size difference in relays. 241fb247ba99434641af9c85fb15361f.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk
 
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Rocket Man

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I'll probably do the same. I had this problem when I had the stock alternator too, kind of melted it around one relay. It looks to me like the relay block isn't stout enough for the loads. I have another being sent but if it's the same size I'll look for a heavier one. I'm not going to rebuild that harness more than once.
 
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Rocket Man

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Today I upgraded my E-fan relays and blocks to 80 amp ones. That was a PIA since there's really no perfect way to make the entire harness look great plus there's so many wires going to the relays that there's a million ways for it to not work. Luckily I got it right; I checked it out after installation and everything works right. Actually, I think it works right for the first time in a long time. There's 3 modes and all 3 are working now. The old relay blocks were melted pretty bad in a couple places.

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