Shorty headers to replace rusted/rotted stock manifolds. Anyone done it?

[kctyler]

Ok so my new to me 07 Escalade has a small exhaust leak on the driver side manifold. The stock manifolds look pretty rough so I'm figuring on replacing them with shorty headers since I'll need to take them off anyway.

The limited research I've done seems to point to Gibson headers. Anyone have experience with these as far as fit and durability? Any recommendations on other brands of shorty headers? The Gibsons I'm seeing in ceramic or stainless for a pretty reasonable $400.

Any experience as to how likely I'm going to run into breaking the exhaust manifold bolts? Seems to have been a problem on the previous generation LS engines (pre-07), I don't know if this is a problem on the current generation motors as well.

I'm not looking for big gains so long tubes aren't an option as I don't want to really modify the vehicle. I have other toys to satisfy the speed demon in me. The Escalade I just want to be a close to stock cruiser for hauling people and home improvement supplies home with.

The truck is stock with a B&B exhaust system that was on there when I purchased it. So the other question is, do shorty headers change the sound of the vehicle at all? I'm thinking it won't but don't have the experience of changing headers to know.

Did you do get anywhere on this? Was thinking the same as you on my 6.2 Denali.

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[drakon543]

Well since this thread has essentially been resurrected I'll chime in. I've went shorty route several times myself when I'm looking to fix a manifold leak and a little gain and keep the cost low. It does cut into potential gains a bit but some cash can be saved by buying a set that you can reuse the factory y. I haven't done a set on anything newer than 2000 so I can imagine room is tight so soaking in a lot of penetrating lube is a must. For anyone else who might read this and has the capability to do it in go a step further than just oil. Using a drill/torch/cut off wheel take the heads of the bolts right off and pry the manifolds off the bolts. This takes a lot of the extra strain off the bolts when removing them. Once the manifold is off you can use whatever you have (extractor, visegrips) and they usually just come right out for me. I have had to torch one set of manifolds in 3 pieces each to do this once tho. Haven't broken a bolt since I started doing this.

 

[NASTY GM]

Did you ever purchase any? I'm going to get JBA's or Flowmaster's soon.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

Do NOT use an impact wrench unless you WANT to be pulling a bunch of broken bolts out of the head. Hand tools only, so you can monitor the bolts for stretch/binding. Tapping the heads of the bolts with a hammer is a great idea, though, and do it as you're treating the bolts with the penetrant, and just before you start your removal work.