Stabilitrak issue my journey so far.

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Taheezy_88

Taheezy_88

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Thanks for the reply IamDub. I watched the video and it was great info. I am currently shopping an AFM DOD delete rebuild kit but cant find an exact one for my non vvt 5.3l. I will be locating a local mechanic to do the labor.

Anyone have a link for a afm dod kit with cam non vvt 5.3l or a great parts list to go off for rebuild?

Would I need the afm disable tuner also with the delete kit?

I cant post the link of the kit I found to confirm with you guys it is ideal.



 
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iamdub

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Thanks for the reply IamDub. I watched the video and it was great info. I am currently shopping an AFM DOD delete rebuild kit but cant find an exact one for my non vvt 5.3l. I will be locating a local mechanic to do the labor.

Anyone have a link for a afm dod kit with cam non vvt 5.3l or a great parts list to go off for rebuild?

Would I need the afm disable tuner also with the delete kit?

I cant post the link of the kit I found to confirm with you guys it is ideal.

AFM DOD Delete Kit with Choppy Idle Camshaft for 2007-2009 5.3L Chevrolet GMC Truck SUV

by ams racing


The problem with budget kits is you don't know what lifters you're getting. IIRC, there have been two cases just on this forum within the past year where someone bought one of these budget kits (I think one of them was from AMS Racing) and had lifter failure very soon after. The lifters are the most critical component in the delete. If there's a lifter failure, it requires removal of the heads to replace, which will cost you not only the cost of replacement lifter(s), but also another set of head gaskets, exhaust gaskets, head bolts, coolant, etc. It's definitely worth it to spend the money on quality lifters. I'd stick to GM (ACDelco or Delphi). Just confirm that they are genuine and not knock-offs. Advertisement wording is tricky.

Also, that kit would require a custom tune, adding to the cost. If you're not after more power, you can get an L33 cam and the only tuning you'll need is to have AFM disabled, which can be done for about $65. When the delete is finished, you'll be ready to roll. You can get send your PCM off to have AFM disabled now and just drive as normal, but without AFM operating. This will buy you time to collect your parts or kit or whatever you decide to do rather than rush to make a decision to stay ahead of a possibly pending failure.

If you do wanna upgrade the cam for power, you're gonna need a custom tune. You can find a tuner, pay them to license your vehicle and tune it to shut AFM off, have the delete performed, then have the tuner tune for the cam. Or, you may have a performance shop do the delete and tune all in-house to simplify the process. It depends on what's available in your area.
 
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Taheezy_88

Taheezy_88

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What are the possibility of me needing a new cam? I stopped driving the Tahoe the day I heard the knock.

and if No cam replacement what do I do with the VLOM? replace or Valley cover?
 
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iamdub

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What are the possibility of me needing a new cam? I stopped driving the Tahoe the day I heard the knock.

and if No cam replacement what do I do with the VLOM? replace or Valley cover?

Pull that VLOM off and see if you can see any damage to any cam lobes and lifter rollers, particularly the #4 exhaust side. If all looks fine and it's just a collapsed lifter, try to unstick it. If you get it unstuck, put it back together and fire it up. If the knocking is still there, then either it collapsed again or the knock is somewhere else. Have you tried rotating the crank back and forth few degrees each with it as-is to see if there's any clanking? If the knock is gone, then it was that lifter and it could happen again, so you'd wanna disable AFM so you can (hopefully) safely drive it until you can do a delete or just let it sit until it's deleted. You gotta determine the source of the knock to see if it's even repairable/deletable.
 
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Taheezy_88

Taheezy_88

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Iamdub tomorrow I will pull the VLOM and rotate the Cam and inspect the lobes. I was just watching a youtube vid of the same situation guys shows how to check lobe and rod to see if the rod ate at the lobe.

Thank you again for the knowledge its guys like you that save guys like me a headache and $$$
 

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