Stability System Disabled/Engine Power Reduced

[Fless]

I confess that I haven't read through every post in this thread, but have the throttle body and pedal sensor movements been graphed to compare to spec, and for dropouts? A good scan tool will do that.

What hard codes are presenting?

 

[NotJLB]

I confess that I haven't read through every post in this thread, but have the throttle body and pedal sensor movements been graphed to compare to spec, and for dropouts? A good scan tool will do that.

What hard codes are presenting?

Same as a year ago:

P0220 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor Switch

&

P2135 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor Switch A/B voltage Correlation

As soon as I clear them, they immediately come back. That's new.

I also notice that a year ago I mentioned that I had had moved the adjustable pedals before this started then, and I did that the other day, and this started again.

That's why I said it may not be about bad throttle sensors, but something about the adjustable pedals.

Any idea what the cable that connects to the top of the throttle pedal? It's like a speedo cable, and I had it off last year when I thought I could replace the pedal assembly, but couldn't.

 

[NotJLB]

Oh yeah, you don't have to read the whole thing. The recent posts are the same as those a year ago.

At least a year ago, it would reset itself. It won't now.

 

[NotJLB]

Just grasping at straws . . . recently, it's been reduce engine power on the first start each morning. I read and erase the codes, and it's OK after that.

Two days ago I got an oil change. The codes were there on the first start that day, then not after that. I drove 40 miles. The oil change tech said the battery read "Replace Battery". It was fine starting and coming home, and it was 12.5 volts yesterday morning. The battery is a MAXX, less than 2 years old, with a 3 year warranty.

Then, yesterday morning the codes were there, return as soon as I erase them, and I can't go anywhere. The codes return even before I start the engine.

I can normally figure these things out, especially when the thing is something I've had to figure out before.

If it wasn't for the Chiefs and 49ers going to the Super Bowl, yesterday was a really ****** day.

 

[NotJLB]

The two codes say it's the throttle sensors. The online videos show replacing the throttle pedal sensor and the throttle body sensor, or entire throttle body, which I did both of those a year ago . . . and had not gotten reduced engine power for a year.

What Does the P0220 Code Mean? Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P0220 stands for “Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch “B” Circuit.” This powertrain control module (PCM) sets this code when it detects voltage from the throttle/pedal position sensor/switch that doesn't fall within the normal operating range.

• DTC P2135 stands for “Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/ Switch A/B Voltage Correlation.”
• This code triggers when the PCM detects a problem with your vehicle’s throttle or pedal position sensors/switches.

 

[NotJLB]

Wow! If you read all the Reduced Engine Power discussions here, you can see what a fustercluck this technology is, and why I asked the NHTSA if they have looked into it.

It is a totally hopeless mishmash of stuff that can easily fail, and have to all be working.

 

[NotJLB]

OK.

What is the cable that attaches to the top of the accelerator pedal on an adjustable pedal model?

I had problems getting it re-attached a year ago, and I noticed it's loose now. I messed with it today, and the reduced engine power codes have gone away.

I have not been able to find what it is in my searches.

In this diagram, it is the cable coming down and attaching to the top of the accelerator pedal, upper right:

https://ww2-secure.justanswer.com/uploads/BL/Bluegorilla/2012-11-12_210203_screen_shot_2012-11-12_at_2.01.26_pm.png

What's that?

 

[NotJLB]

Here it is in a pic, the cable on the top of the accelerator pedal. What's that?

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ysIAAOSwtthkryP2/s-l1600.webp

 

[NotJLB]

I got it to the award-winning NAPA repair shop, and they do not want it unless the check engine light is still on and the codes are still in it, even though I can tell them what the codes are and what I've done. & even if they were, they could not look at it for a week.

So, I can't determine what's causing it and the people who can tell what's wrong with it can't tell what's wrong with it.

 

[NotJLB]

Now it varies on start-up. Sometimes the check engine light only, sometimes the TC light is on, too. Sometimes one code, sometimes two. Sometimes they will clear, sometimes they won't.