Stability System Disabled/Engine Power Reduced

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NotJLB

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P0220 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor Switch

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P2135 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor Switch A/B voltage Correlation

The two recurring codes that put it into Reduced Engine Power indicate the throttle pedal senor is the problem, so that is probably what a repair shop would do. I can do that, but since I've already done that, my guess it's something else. My gut tells me it has to do with the pedals being adjustable, and moving them causes the issue.

For now I'm hold, waiting for an ex-spirt.
 
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NotJLB

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Here is the video for replacing the pedal sensor, not all that tough of a DIY. This is an adjustable pedal, and you can see that cable attach to the top of the pedal that I am trying to identify. I'm guessing it's part of the adjustor actuator, since the fixed pedal does not have it.
If I get no other suggestions, I will do this first.
 
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NotJLB

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Here is a discussion answering the question I have about that cable attached to the accelerator pedal. I don't think I got it locked it like says when I did that a year ago.

 
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NotJLB

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Having not heard any other suggestions and assuming my NAPA Award-Winning mechanic won't do anything more than what the codes say, I am proceeding to replace the pedal position sensor, just like I did as a first step a year ago.

I have already heard back from David O'Reilly/O'Reilly Auto Parts, so the saga continues.
 

tooleyondeck

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Having not heard any other suggestions and assuming my NAPA Award-Winning mechanic won't do anything more than what the codes say, I am proceeding to replace the pedal position sensor, just like I did as a first step a year ago.

I have already heard back from David O'Reilly/O'Reilly Auto Parts, so the saga continues.

I would recommend not using the O'reilly Parts brand, go with AC Delco for your pedal position sensor.

Did you already replace your throttle position sensor on your throttle body?
 
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NotJLB

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Too late.

I just replaced the pedal position sensor and it did not change anything.

Last year I replaced the pedal position sensor and then put on a new OEM throttle body, with a new sensor attached.

It did OK for a year.

My guess it is one of the harnesses, or any of a lot of things.

I just did the first thing, the thing the codes suggested, because I figured that's the first thing a repair shop would do.

I've been a GM guy all my life, but this technology is BS.
 
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NotJLB

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I'm not doing a Happy Dance yet, but I replaced the battery and the codes are gone.
 
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NotJLB

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I took it around the block and the APS code came back, plus P1516, a new one. Reduced engine power, of course.
 
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Thanks. I appreciate that video. I have read about bad grounds and wires both last year and now, but I have never seen what and where and someone fixing them.

Since I have replaced the APS twice and the throttle body once, and that did not fix it, I have felt it was something else all along. It's just that there's so many things it could be.

Last Saturday when I got an oil change, they reported "Replace Battery". It reads fine, and I believe it's fine, but I did any way. One thing the guy did in this video is modify the battery connection, so . . . .

For the clicking-challenge, the short of it is that over time . . . . and 20 years certainly is time enough . . . . wires and connections get gunky, and loose effectiveness, and these techy systems can't function without good connections.

This guy cleaned off all the connections . . . "made them shiny".

My wife just said, "Can you do that?" At least now I know what and where.

Oh, by the way, the P1516 code was gone this morning but the two pedal sensor codes were back. I was able to clear them. But, this is too much of a crapshoot to even let my wife take The Beast to Wal Mart.
 

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