Steering question

[Jdsfx1]

I recently bought my 2008 Yukon XL Denali. It has many minor issues but overall drives great. One issue I’m unsure about is the way the steering feels during straight line driving. I feel like the wheel is a little “jerky/twitchy” when given minor input. It’s only for a split second as you move the wheel off center or neutral position. It steers well otherwise and makes no noises or other bad habits. If I leave my hands off the wheel it tracks perfect and there’s no shimmy or shakes whatsoever.

Is this just how the steering feels with the power assist, or is something maybe wrong? My wife had a Dodge Aspen SUV and it felt the same way and it was just how the power steering was.

 

[petethepug]

Have the steering system flushed and add a non OEM fluid with more (expensive) conditioners. It’ll reduce the tendency to foam / cavitate down. Denali & HD trucks have p/s coolers and a lot of lines to work air out of.

 

[Geotrash]

I recently bought my 2008 Yukon XL Denali. It has many minor issues but overall drives great. One issue I’m unsure about is the way the steering feels during straight line driving. I feel like the wheel is a little “jerky/twitchy” when given minor input. It’s only for a split second as you move the wheel off center or neutral position. It steers well otherwise and makes no noises or other bad habits. If I leave my hands off the wheel it tracks perfect and there’s no shimmy or shakes whatsoever.

Is this just how the steering feels with the power assist, or is something maybe wrong? My wife had a Dodge Aspen SUV and it felt the same way and it was just how the power steering was.

Get the front end up in the air and look for play in the inner and outer tie rod ends, and in the steering rack itself, or its mount bushings. Also look for play in the wheel bearings and ball joints. All very common wear items. I had to replace the rack in my '07 at around 230K because of excessive play in the drivers side inner tie rod end.

 

[B-train]

Also, check the toe-in measurement. Too much toe will cause it to be twitchy as well. Poor caster adjustment as well can have a similar effect. It may be worth throwing some money at a proper alignment after you inspect the ball joints, tie rods, toe, etc.

Whenever I get my vehicle aligned, I go to a trusted shop that has done more than they can count and uses good equipment. I then explain that I want the tires to ride as close to square to the road as possible. This reduces rolling resistance and improves tire life. Couple that with just a scosh of toe-in and it handles well. A shop that just checks to make sure it's "in the green" will never give you a good driving experience. An experienced alignment guy will know where to set caster for a good steering feel and to help the vehicle go straight with hands off the wheel on most roads.

 

[petethepug]

What he said. A new rack and front end rebuild is a wonderful thing. With all new bushings and specs tightened up and poly sway bar it’s actually better than new.

 

[j91z28d1]

seen a few threads about steering, seems coming from other cars/trucks these might be a little over assisted on center at speed. what was your last vehicle?

worth checking things out, but I think it just take a people a bit to get used to soft steering?

 

[blondie70]

Mine is the same way. Don't have a coughing spell at speed.......

 

[swathdiver]

If the steering gear and tires are in top shape, the alignment can cause the symptoms you describe. The more caster the better for steering response and more authority going over train tracks and bumps, etc.

If you seek an alignment, talk to the tech and tell him how you want the vehicle to perform. You don't want a guy who just gets it into the green and sends it. This is where going to the dealer and having a professional who knows your car pays.

 

[Marky Dissod]

This is where going to ... a professional who knows your car pays.

Does not necessarily NEED to be the or a dealer. There are high-quality well-experienced non-dealer mechs out there.
Hopefully yours is closer to you than a dealer.

Without remembering any specific numbers (except 'half' & 'one'),
the alignment specs I annoy my non-dealer mech with are as follows:
*As much positive caster as reasonably possible, so long as they're within 0.5 degree or less of each other
*No positive camber, no more than 1.0 degree of negative camber
*No toe-out, no more than 1.0 degree of toe-IN

 

[steve45]

As others have said, check for any looseness throughout the suspension and steering linkage. However, the steering on the older Tahoes/Yukons is very light. I had a '97 that was very twitchy, and my 2009 is better. My '16 is a lot better than either of the previous ones were.

The brand of tires and pressure can have a significant effect. Slight toe-in is necessary because rolling friction wile going down the road will tend to force a toe-out condition. The best way to check this is with a scuff gauge or an old Ammco Wigi board, but sadly those aren't around anymore.