Strange Issues. Please help a brotha out.

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OR VietVet

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SDWallhanger

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Yes, .040 gap.

What plugs and wires are you gonna use?

I recommend these plugs: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10351600&cc=1433400&jsn=2054

Others may chime in with their favorites.

I recommend these wires: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=948186&cc=1433400&jsn=2080

Says it has 90 degree boots at the plugs. Hopefully you do too. This is the application.

Sometimes a previous owner used something cheap and may not have the 90 degree boot at the plugs.

I was going to use these.

IMG_20210126_091226.jpg
 

OR VietVet

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The wires at RA are a better quality than the "Professional" brand of AC Delco and are only $2.80 more and the AC Delco is a preferred plug for most are are $43.60 for 8 of them instead of $63.92 for the Bosch. If you can wait for the RA parts and use the 5% RA discount code and still pay shipping, you should come out money ahead and have better quality parts, again IMO.

Before the 5% discount and whatever shipping is, the total you have is $128.91 and my total is $111.39.

Hell, the same Professional wires at RA are $34.99. The AC Delco Iridium plugs are 5.45 each at RA.

I believe the AC Delco wires #748RR would be a better long haul choice.
 

drno4

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I'm new here. Quite active on a similar Camry forum, but just joined this as I also do a lot of work on our 2003 Yukon Denali XL 6.0L V8, nearing 180K miles.

To that end, and if you do end up having to remove/replace your wheel hub and speed sensor assemblies, I have done that twice on our rig.

Both times I've gone with the Timken SP500300 assemblies, which are some of the best. Had a lemon pair once that were easily warrantied, but that can happen with any auto part. AC DELCO may also be a good choice. Stay away from MOOG.

This was a helpful installation video for me the first time (as are many videos from 1A Auto):


Second time I did the install from memory; basically it's a little more involved than a full brake job.

The hardest part may be getting off your hub/axle nut...unless you have an impact wrench, which makes it a super easy 10-second removal. (In fact, I first bought my impact wrench several years ago specifically for this wheel hub job, and it has become a mainstay in my garage. Well worth the investment if you're going to continue to work on your rig.)

Hope that helps.
 

DICK13

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When that happened to my 2013 Tahoe one of the lifters ended up getting stuck and I ended up following this guy on YouTube advice with his DOD removal kit and it fixed everything and the truck ran better than ever. I'll see if I can find the link
 

2591tdj

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We bought a 2007 GMC XL Denali this wknd with 163,000 on Odometer. When test driving it ran fine with no codes or messages other than low tire indicator. On way home from dealership we stopped at gas station to check air pressure. Upon stopping it started to idle roughly and then quit and then not restart until it cooled down. Also we noticed the cruise control did not work. The button light came on but no engagement light on cluster. After getting it started again it ran fine and we drove on, along the way random messages appeared such as stabiilitrak not engaged, service traction control and hood open.

Yesterday I replaced the brake light switch and that fixed the cruise control and message went away. Drove it today at lunch and it idled for awhile and then messages appeared again and now cruise doesn't work again. Can somet help me out. Does this sound like a bad ground somewhere or ??? Thanks all. I appreciate ya.
Russell
Did the dealer not include any warranty? Many will offer a 90-day but you may have to make it part of the negotiation. Considering the mileage they may not have been willing.
 

Daniel cook

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There is a plug connection above rear shock bolt on the frame that can set off both those codes. I bumped mine while changes shocks ... you cant see it but you can feel it and see if it's all the way clipped together
 

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