The BEST exhaust manifold bolts?

[randeez]

I went with the 134-1102 6-pt, the 134-1202 are 12-pt heads.

i use the 434-1202, 12pt, stainless
i've started buying the same hardware for a few different things also, it has such a positive feel tightening down you dont worry about the fastener breaking or rounding the head. there's no "stretch" feeling.

 

[George B]

I have two broken bolts. I installed the "brackets" as the solution. The reading I've done on this indicates the OEM replacement bolts installed correctly are a good reliable fix. I think it was mentioned the OEM bolt design is changed for better durability. To get the old broken bolts out will probably take an experienced mechanic with e.g. a welder.

Were have you read about the improved OEM bolts?

 

[Rocket Man]

i use the 434-1202, 12pt, stainless
i've started buying the same hardware for a few different things also, it has such a positive feel tightening down you dont worry about the fastener breaking or rounding the head. there's no "stretch" feeling.

Do you use ARP's assembly lube or anti-seize when installing stainless steel bolts in aluminum? I learned to do that working on Harleys when I did an engine dress-up, was always told to be sure not to install stainless steel bolts into aluminum without anti-seize and then had to adjust torque specs accordingly. I don't use anything on the Chromoly bolts unless ARP specifies it like the harmonic balancer bolt.

 

[George B]

Air ratchets don't give the shocking effect an impact does. But, you don't wanna use an impact that you'd hammer off lug nuts with. I'd do it by hand- tap on the bolt heads a few times then with a box end wrench. I always start out tapping a few times to the right (tightening). Not enough that you actually turn or can see it turn cuz if it turns, then it's not seized and will come right out anyway. You can even try using a socket that fits over the entire bolt head and whack that a few times. This will shock the flange of the manifold around the bolt head in case the underside of the head has rusted to it a little. It's all just little things to do 'just in case' before you go straight to torquing on the bolt.

FWIW, I just tapped each of my bolts with the round end of a ball peen hammer before trying and they came straight out. Rust/corrosion doesn't exist here, though.

What type and brand of Lil' Impact are you referring to?

 

[randeez]

Do you use ARP's assembly lube or anti-seize when installing stainless steel bolts in aluminum? I learned to do that working on Harleys when I did an engine dress-up, was always told to be sure not to install stainless steel bolts into aluminum without anti-seize and then had to adjust torque specs accordingly. I don't use anything on the Chromoly bolts unless ARP specifies it like the harmonic balancer bolt.

depends on what application is...most arp hardware says the arp lube only goes between bolt head and washer/surface not on the threads and use a different lube on threads.
they've always gone in/out smooth so i havent used anti-seize on mine

 

[Rocket Man]

depends on what application is...most arp hardware says the arp lube only goes between bolt head and washer/surface not on the threads and use a different lube on threads.
they've always gone in/out smooth so i havent used anti-seize on mine

It’s galvanic corrosion that’s a problem, from what I heard. Stainless steel and aluminum will supposedly seize together after enough time.

 

[iamdub]

What type and brand of Lil' Impact are you referring to?

I was thinking a 3/8" drive pneumatic impact. They're significantly weaker than the 1/2" drive and usually have easier trigger control.

A little turd like this would be handy in your collection if you use an air compressor and air tools:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-impact-wrench-93296.html


There are electric (cordless) ones, though. You can get the 1/2" drive in corded and cordless, heven't seen a corded 3/8" drive. They, as well, have pretty good trigger control over the speed and impact strength.

 

[George B]

I was thinking a 3/8" drive pneumatic impact. They're significantly weaker than the 1/2" drive and usually have easier trigger control.

A little turd like this would be handy in your collection if you use an air compressor and air tools:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-impact-wrench-93296.html


There are electric (cordless) ones, though. You can get the 1/2" drive in corded and cordless, heven't seen a corded 3/8" drive. They, as well, have pretty good trigger control over the speed and impact strength.

Thanks. Thats what I thought. I have a large compressor that allows me to paint and sand blast. I never run out of air. I have a 1/2” impact and a 3/8 air ratchet. A 3/8 impact would be a nice add on. Although then I will need more sockets.

 

[George B]

Thanks. Thats what I thought. I have a large compressor that allows me to paint and sand blast. I never run out of air. I have a 1/2” impact and a 3/8 air ratchet. A 3/8 impact would be a nice add on. Although then I will need more sockets.

I have always liked these too but not as much trigger control.
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-e...s-torque-compact-air-impact-wrench-93100.html

 

[iamdub]

Thanks. Thats what I thought. I have a large compressor that allows me to paint and sand blast. I never run out of air. I have a 1/2” impact and a 3/8 air ratchet. A 3/8 impact would be a nice add on. Although then I will need more sockets.

3/8" drive Impact sockets? Nah. They don't put out enough to hurt standard sockets.