The KidWagon

[gooffeyguy]

Run it through the radiator cooler. It helps get it up to temp.

As for the thermostat, I've seen some coolers built with "internal bypass" which are smaller passages in sections of the cooler, so when fluid is cold and thicker it won't flow into those areas and basically "bypass" much of the cooler. After the fluid heats up and gets thinner, its then able to flow through the smaller passages in the cooler.

 

[Doubeleive]

top one is parts off of amazon, bottom one is parts off of ebay
you need 2 of each, these will let you bolt the trucool right up in-line with the existing radiator cooler & lines

 

[KidWgn]

Run it through the radiator cooler. It helps get it up to temp.

As for the thermostat, I've seen some coolers built with "internal bypass" which are smaller passages in sections of the cooler, so when fluid is cold and thicker it won't flow into those areas and basically "bypass" much of the cooler. After the fluid heats up and gets thinner, its then able to flow through the smaller passages in the cooler.

I’m not concerned with getting it up to temp. It will be 85°+ here for the next 6 months. By the time late fall comes around, I’ll install that thermostatic outlet I posted with 6an lines.

 

[KidWgn]

top one is parts off of amazon, bottom one is parts off of ebay
you need 2 of each, these will let you bolt the trucool right up in-line with the existing radiator cooler & lines
View attachment 430384View attachment 430385

Not terribly concerned with reusing the factory lines since I’ll be switching to 6an lines toward the end of the year

 

[Doubeleive]

Not terribly concerned with reusing the factory lines since I’ll be switching to 6an lines toward the end of the year

the factory lines do not connect to a tru cool, you have to use adapters or the rubber hose and screw clamps that come with the tru cool which in my case decided to work there way loose and start leaking. the tru cool fittings are 5/8-18 and the factory lines are a flared pipe.
so the adpaters I noted above convert the flared pipe to 6an and then from 6an back to 5/8-18
you can just use what comes in the tru cool kit, but you might not want too.
it's just a option for a more secure fitment.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Nothing like doing it twice

or asking how we've done it just to do it however you want to anyway

 

[Doubeleive]

Nothing like doing it twice

got that right, I was kinda mad about it, then I had to go back and drop it under the front anyway.

 

[KidWgn]

Nothing like doing it twice

or asking how we've done it just to do it however you want to anyway

Just because I asked for your input, that doesn’t mean that I automatically have to agree with your reasoning.

The radiator cooler’s job is to warm the fluid; our transmissions obviously have no problem warming the fluid, and here in the Midwest we spend little time below 32°, as you know. This means that the radiator cannot efficiently cool the ATF much below the 200° that the water temp sits at. If our objective is to keep the fluid 160-180°, the radiator isn’t helping us much.

If bringing the fluid up to temp is your only reason for running it through the radiator first, then I’ll bypass the radiator.

 

[KidWgn]

the factory lines do not connect to a tru cool, you have to use adapters or the rubber hose and screw clamps that come with the tru cool which in my case decided to work there way loose and start leaking. the tru cool fittings are 5/8-18 and the factory lines are a flared pipe.
so the adpaters I noted above convert the flared pipe to 6an and then from 6an back to 5/8-18
you can just use what comes in the tru cool kit, but you might not want too.
it's just a option for a more secure fitment.

Right right, I guess I replied a bit loosely. I’m planning on just using the rubber line for now, until I swap to 6an with the thermostatic outlet.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Just because I asked for your input, that doesn’t mean that I automatically have to agree with your reasoning.

The radiator cooler’s job is to warm the fluid; our transmissions obviously have no problem warming the fluid, and here in the Midwest we spend little time below 32°, as you know. This means that the radiator cannot efficiently cool the ATF much below the 200° that the water temp sits at. If our objective is to keep the fluid 160-180°, the radiator isn’t helping us much.

If bringing the fluid up to temp is your only reason for running it through the radiator first, then I’ll bypass the radiator.

It's not my only reason, I just said it helps get it up to temp.

160* is pretty cool for trans fluid, especially for Dex VI and in summer heat