That's on my "list" too. I want to get 3.43 or 3.73 gears anyway, and swapping the entire axle will surely be easier than swapping the gearset. I have no idea how to set lash and whatnot, and even if I YouTubeUniversity it, I'd rather let a professional set that up if I have to. Overall, I'd rather replace the entire axle.
Agreed. I've done it once and hated every minute of it. Too many fully-assemble-then-torques just to measure and find you gotta disassemble and add, remove or relocate shims. Granted this was on a Jeep (Chrysler era axle) and I was installing an aftermarket locker. Still, we have a few shops in the area that specialize in all things driveline. Mine has 3.73 gears but I want a Detroit Truetrac diff. It'd 100% be worth it to me to pay a pro for this.
I'm willing to bet any machine shop local to you would do it, too, but they're going to be expensive.
With the oil and chemical industries here, there are an abundance of fab shops. It's easy to "get someone that knows someone" to make something so simple. I've outsourced small precision projects before, but this was years ago. Of course, this is only when necessary. The part I'm working with can have slop when being assembled cuz, once it's bolted down, it doesn't move. The bushing rotates around the sleeve. I could wrap some shim stock around the bolt and it'd be good. I haven't compared the factory bolt sizes and the sleeve IDs yet. It might be as simple as drilling the sleeve slightly bigger to fit the bolt. I'll invest in a specific size of drill bit (12mm, 14mm, etc.) for that.
Why not just buy adjustable uppers? I'm assuming you have a vision for something not offered in the market, because you're you and that's a very you thing to do
The adjustable ones are expensive and I can make my arms for about $70 at most. That's with me buying the forged rod ends (~$25 each). I could make 'em for as little as ~$25 if I make the rod ends and only have to buy the tube adapters (~$12 each). I have the steel and poly bushings on hand already- leftovers from other projects. Also, the adjustable ones are designed so that you leave them installed and turn the centers or adjusting nuts. While convenient, it's extra specialized parts (left- and right-hand threaded stuff, etc.) that aren't necessary, IMO. I'm not gonna be adjusting these things all the time. My idea is simple bushed ends with one end being adjustable. I'll remove the bolt, swing the end out of the tabs, twist the end in or out to shorten or lengthen the arm, lock the jamb nut then slip it back in the tabs and reinstall the bolt. A half turn is plenty fine enough adjustment. Once it's set, I'll never mess with it again. Paying for the extra parts to make adjusting them a little easier is a waste. I also don't want or need rebuildable Delrin ends. I wanna minimize the things I do that degrade the ride quality. When I make the lowers, they'll be new factory arms with their factory rubber bushings, cut in half, lengthened, spliced and boxed. Also, bcuz kustom.
Better be careful...my pants are getting tight...
See above.
Behave yo self.
@pwtr02ss and
@randeez are jealous types.
Yours have TWO vertical bolts??? Mine only have the one, which "matches" the hole in the stock location. I put that in quotes because I still had to take a rotary file to it for it to go through on the left side. This is part of what makes me think the adjustable arms will make things match.
I'm pretty sure. I know the shock extender has a single vertical bolt.
...Shit. Now I gotta go check. Which means I gotta go out to the shop. Which means I gotta get dressed. Which means you read a lot of words that I typed while almost naked. And your pants got tight. You're welcome.
Definitely use a reamer, not a drill bit.
I got family in loozyanna anyway, over there in Ball, north of Alexandria.
