Thinking of Buying a 07-14 NNBS Tahoe/Suburban? Look Here

[irish_loveAWD]

Quoted just about all the advice in this thread. I'm going to look at a 2010 Tahoe LTZ with 100,000 miles on it. Wanted a list of things to keep an eye out for in one spot. Any other input for items to look for?

Gentleman I have been put in charge of making a sticky with common questions asked on the forum. These include common problems (please provide fixes and pics), some of the common mods (provide pics, step by step instructions, etc.) i.e. not air ride but maybe leveling the rear or front. I am also leaving this up to you guys a bit, if you think it is good info then please post it up.

This will be multiple stickies but will hopefully eliminate multiple posts on the same subject and also frustration from new users.

What I have thought of so far:

1) AFM and oil consumption
Need fixes and common symptoms to look for.
2) Dash cracks
Need common locations with pictures.
3) Rear defrost plugs breaking
Need fixes and pics

I haven't owned one of these in a few years so I know I am forgetting a ton of stuff.


Keep the needless chatter out as it will be deleted and basically make my job harder.

Thank you in advance for the help!

I have a cracked dash in the Yukon

Peeling door handles in the Suburban

Also. Front Wheel bearings go out fast........

Air suspension problems?

Maybe post Links to Arnotts?

The peeling handles tend to be a pretty common problem on only the 2007-2010 models with chrome handles.

1. The door lock actuator is a problem with almost all model years.
2. Then there is the remote lift gate open issues.
3. The issues with door drains an trapped water in the door.
4. Cabin temperature aspirator (sensor) buzzing too.

Need some help from you the owners of NNBS SUV's

High speed vibration. Slip yolk clunk. Tranny cooler lines leak. Don't move the intake throttle body plate
Air bag sensors failures.

In the Suburban......

They replaced a rear main seal, LF wheel bearing, and the Entire Airbag in the roof of the Left side. This is the airbag that goes all the way across in the roof. This was fixed under warranty.

Also replaced under warranty was the lift gate struts. They are slow to raise the gate, and it opens partially........ even now with the new ones.

Also. The 2011 Yukon had a cracked transmission dipstick tube. It would just wiggle, but never came off. Had a hole/ crack in the tube. There was TSB or a recall on this. They checked it at about 30K. It was fine and not cracked. It cracked at 35K, and they acted like they did not want to replace it then. I had to complain to make them do it.

Instrument panel lights sometimes flicker in the 2011 Yukon as well. Not sure why.

---------- Post added at 06:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:38 AM ----------

Things new people may also want to know.

Light bulbs on the front require bumper removal. I have seen it done without removal of the bumper cover and it's possible....... but its a more violent process. Would not want it done that way imo.

Changing transmission fluid and dropping the pan requires lowering of the Y-pipe. To lower the Y-pipe, the O2 sensor must be pulled on the right side at the exhaust manifold. This is on a 2WD, not certain on a 4WD.

There is no petcock on the radiator. Makes a big mess upon removal of the lower radiator hose. The person in charge of the removal of this little item should be given a homo of the year award. The lower hose can be pulled at the water pump or at the lower radiator part. If you pull at the pump, cover the AC compressor. The antifreeze will other wise go all over the AC clutch and belt.

Rear End fluid changes are made easier and possible by dropping the spare and also the bolt on the Panhard Bar at the axle. The rear end DOES HAVE A GASKET. IT IS REUSABLE. When putting it back together...... raise the truck by the frame from the back to make lining up the bolt for the panhard bar easier. As the axle shifts slightly.

Issues that I am currently dealing with:
-Driver's Side Wheel Bearing suddenly noisy - Needs replacement
-Passenger side front brake caliper is not fully retracting - wheel hot after long drive - Had the same issue on the driver side a few months ago (should have just replaced both)
-Instrument Panel Displays (DIC & PRNDL) No Longer Illuminated:
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26769
-Rear air suspension is no longer working - Fuse was blown, replaced that and no change - needs further troubleshooting


Fixed a broken rear defrost tab two months ago:
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21521

From the other thread.

Broken engine mounts

In my short ownership of my Denali, here's what I've had done...

RR Door lock actuator
RR Bose Speaker
Pass Side Mirror motor
Rear Rotors
Oil Pan Gasket
Front Crankshaft Seal

All covered under the extended warranty I bought with it..

Actually, the Mirror Motor and Rotors were covered by the dealership.. The rest was under warranty.. I had to pay my $100 deductible. That's all folks....

View attachment 32644

Since I have purchased my 07.5 burb, I have done the following not in any specific order...

Cracked dash in 3 spots... - doesn't help its blk
Bought an AFM module
Fuel overflow sensor on top of the gas tank had to be replaced
Front hubs redone
Rack and pinion redone twice - under warranty
Oil pan gasket replaced
Replaced rear air suspension - Arnott - twice
Replaced front shocks - Arnott
Rear liftgate will not raise up... Been fighting it for a while guess its the latch...? can anyone look at it besides the stealership and tell me whats wrong with it...?
Rear defrost tab came loose... Fixing that today
Replaced all ball joints and arms in the front end
Replaced both engine mounts
Top info button on dash does not work so I can't get my transmission temp when towing...
Driver door handle came off in my hand... Replaced
Radiator hose blew off off
Cracked AC line replaced
All four rotors replaced
New muffler
New windshield

Also include the power folding mirror failures. The flappy crapy GM syndrome . Lol

2010 LTZ experience:
-Cracked Dash twice in the same place, to the left of the Passenger Airbag running from top to bottom. Black on Black. Last one cost $300 because my neighbor the shop foreman had mercy on me. I bought a COVERCRAFT UVS100 Windshield Sun Shade about 2 years ago, and the most current dash is perfect, but I use the windshield cover every day. It also keeps the interior much cooler.
-Replaced Air Compressor on suspension at 100,000 miles with an Arnott unit. Easy fix and reliable once again. Compressor is in a crappy location and catches a lot of trash.
-Both front door handles broken at 111,000 miles.
-If you leave the sunroof open and it happens to rain, even though it has been slid all the way back, the sunroof's sliding cover will become badly stained and slightly orange colored. Stanley Steamer fixed it in 5 minutes when they came by to do some carpet.
-Headlight housings fog up and look like hazy old glasses way too early. On the plus side, cheap DEPO headlights can replace them and the truck looks new again, and the lights actually work again. Be sure and seal the housing joint with silicone sealant before you install them, and let them cure overnight, or water will ruin them.
-Center dash speaker on the BOSE radio comes loose and rattles constantly in the dash. Pop the cover off and use larger diameter sheet metal screws to hold it in place, then no more problems.
-The two small synthetic rubber covers at each end of the front windshield wipers crack and break early on in hot climates. They snap in and out easy, and in Texas the dealer even stocks them for some reason or other...
-Remind folks to fill new oil filters with oil prior to installation, and you may save early wear and tear on your engine. Oops, everybody does that already, right? SURE THEY DO.
-When you change the Iridium Spark Plugs at 100,00 miles, go ahead and pay the $65 to RockAuto and buy new OEM Plug Wires, because by the time you wrestle the old wires off that appear to be welded on, the old wires are not worth a damn. IF you read the Spark Plug box, it DOES say to GAP the plugs.
I will curse myself and admit to not having any work performed on 5.3 litre engine, 6-speed transmission, or any electronic or mechanical part other than those listed above in over 111,000 miles from new. I am a little on the conservative side, and do proactive tranny flushes every 30k and do the same to the radiator, transfer case and differentials. I will cut a rotor one time, then the next brake job I replace the rotors. Oil and filter changes happen every 5,000 miles with Mobil-1 5w30 since I help make the stuff. This Tahoe matches my past Bmw's and Honda's for being pretty bulletproof. Wish I could have said the same for my last Z28 and my little S-10 truck and S-10 Blazer. The few Pics that I have are attached. Thanks for the sticky. View attachment 77510 View attachment 77511

 

[dreww2001]

2007 Chevy Tahoe LTZ 149k
I bought the car off my parents in July of 16 and since then I have done the following..
Rear Shocks
Transmission Lines
Rear Diff/Axle Rebuild
New Struts
BCM (Chip I put on fried it not the cars fault)
Brakes and Rotors
Transmission Flush
Spare Tire Bracket
Ujoint
Rear panels above taillights rattling (Put a foam tape between the panel and glass fixed issue)
Steering wheel columns replaced from rubber coating to the aluminum look
My parents did tons of work on the electrical system when they owned it replaced radio twice 2 speakers
Gauge Cluster intermittent
Sunroof track snapped
Idler Pully
Rear wiper motor
Power mirror motor
Spark Plug Wires
Oil Pressure Sensor

Issues that I haven’t fixed are
Broken Defeoster Tabs
Peeling Door handles
Dash Crack above Gauge Cluster
Air Conditioning buttons + and - finish worn off
Rear unit that controls rear air and heated seats doesn’t work
Driver side heated seat control intermittent
Need an AC charge

 

[savagebasher]

Just bought my 07 LTZ but here are the issues I found right away...

Dash has a crack
Driver's side exterior door handle has came loose
Annoying interior noise coming from the rear.. not a rattle and not sure where it is coming from exactly..
Power running boards do not work
The driver power seat only works when no one is in the seat
Smell of what seems to be burnt wire or maybe coolant when exiting vehicle

 

[Meccanoble]

2011 Tahoe LT purchased 10/16 with 120k miles.
Issues:
1) Cruise Control
2) Missing knobs in 2nd row (replaced by dealer)
3) Missing spare tire and assembly
4) TPMS on rear passenger side

After doing my own maintenance, I confirmed truck was taken care of by previous owner

New Issues
1) Shudder while driving 2nd+ gear with light throttle around 2k rpm. Still investigating

 

[2015Denali4WD]

Damn all these issues makes me almost not want to buy a used Tahoe LTZ. I will try and find a used one with 50,000 miles.

 

[kwOH]

Damn all these issues makes me almost not want to buy a used Tahoe LTZ. I will try and find a used one with 50,000 miles.

Get the denali or esky

 

[2015Denali4WD]

Get the denali or esky

Denali is AWD still might look into it I definitely want 4wd. The escalade cost to much for after parts.

 

[inmypassatlife]

Found a 2007 LS Tahoe with 160k for $5500, it has been taken care of, but I have to resist as it may be as much a money pit as my 116k NBS one was lol

 

[bldn10]

At about what point do a lot of components need to be replaced? I'm looking at a '10 w/ 104,000 miles and the owner, who has had it the last 30,000 or so, has not replaced much of anything. What about water pump, alternator, A/C condensor and tensioner, plugs, injectors, belts, gaskets, brake rotors, etc.? I don't want to buy a "new" truck and have to spend a lot of $ on it right away. I already have one I can do that w/!

 

[07Burb]

At about what point do a lot of components need to be replaced? I'm looking at a '10 w/ 104,000 miles and the owner, who has had it the last 30,000 or so, has not replaced much of anything. What about water pump, alternator, A/C condensor and tensioner, plugs, injectors, belts, gaskets, brake rotors, etc.? I don't want to buy a "new" truck and have to spend a lot of $ on it right away. I already have one I can do that w/!

If the seller has done nothing in 30k miles I'd just assume that the vehicle has been poorly maintained for a while now unless you're inspection tells you otherwise. Here's the list of things I'd plan on replacing at 104k miles if the last 30k nothing has been done.

spark plugs (probably still original)
wires (maybe but a visual inspection should tell you)
oil change (oil, filter, air filter)
Ball joints, sway bar end links and tie rods (visual inspection of these components will tell you quickly if you need them but i suspect you probably do)
Brakes (again, visually inspect these but i'm betting you'll need them)
radiator flush
diff flush
Hub Assemblies (probably still original but you can tell if they need replaced before even taking a wheel off once you have the front end off the ground)
How's the battery?
Hoses?
Belts

.....you get the picture. Honestly, if it was me I'd either be willing to do all of these things or just walk away knowing what you know about the seller and basically neglecting this thing for 30k miles. Just my .02 cents and how I operate