Thinking of Buying a 07-14 NNBS Tahoe/Suburban? Look Here

[GMJedi]

Now gimmie some fixes. Can the buttons be purchased separate or does the whole unit need replaced?

I think I saw on eBay someone was selling vinyl stickers that look spot on to cover up the peeling buttons

 

[petethepug]

Purch’d 1 owner 08 AWD Denali XL in 14 from Mopar Dlr w/ 96k for $19.5k loaded, remote start, DVD, trailer brake, heated steering wheel, fact 20’s, Navi. Very well maintained. Best move was a $3,750 service contract (SC) purch’d b4 100k mi approx 3 mo after purch truck.

The SC replaced the following, in this order, in early 15 when having the 100k service done at a GMC Dlr @101k mi. The 100k service was $950 on my dime for all fluids, 2 rear inside peeling door handles, + plugs.

1 motor mount
Radiator
Rear main seal.
Trans main seal * GM Dlr

New GM Alt * GM Dlr

Rear Bags
Susp Comp for bags * GM Dlr

New AC Delco rack & pinion
Alignment
Inner tie rods
D/S Exh gasket (+ broken stud my dime)
Outer tie rods (my dime) while it was all apart and all fact fluids * Indie Shop

2nd new radiator (A/C Delco)
New front main seal (motor)
Timing cover
Rear outer axle seals
Rear diff seal and all fact fluids/gaskets* Indie Shop.

The 4 Yr/48mo SC lasted 4 years and paid over $12k in covered repairs. It took the $19.5k + $3,750 initial cost down to $11,250 by today’s date, 4/27/19 at 131k miles. The above repairs occurred from 101k to 131k miles over a four year period. I went over the truck w/ a fine tooth comb to find the final concealed failures.

3 sets of 275/55/20 tires. Went from H to V to W speed rated tires. The W have lasted the longest and ride the best at 40 psi. Buy 4 new TPMS off eBay to be prepared for failing sensors that will cost 2-4x as much at a Dlr or shop. Have them tested by a tech to verify they’re all good immediately b4 u stash them in the back of ur truck.

The dash cracked in early 16. The paint on the hood and roof failed in 18. P/s folding mirror motor failed in 2018. Truck has piston slap misdiagnosed as knock until exh leak on #8 corrected. Expect 8-9 in town and 14-17 mpg on hwy w/ the best ride of any SUV this size on the magnetic ride control (MRC). The AWD keeps this 3 ton monster planted, predictable and power under control. This is our 2nd Denali XL after a new 06 sold in 08. Th 6.2L 380/417tq Non AFM/no cylinder deactivation motor is amazing matched to the 6SP Auto/Man shift trans. Get a well maintained 07-09 NNBS w/ a 6.2L and no AFM. You’ll never look back.



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[de9roit]

So, what I've gotten from the thread .... Yukon > Tahoe? I'm so torn in which route I want to take.

 

[swathdiver]

So, what I've gotten from the thread .... Yukon > Tahoe? I'm so torn in which route I want to take.

Yukon XL of course! Now, which engine, year and chassis?

 

[avalonandl]

This is a great thread. Since I am looking at getting a Denali XL from 08-12 vintage and selling my 2015 HD Duramax (don't use it enough) and put some $ in my pocket. This tells me the things to look for. Did not know the motor mounts were that big a deal. Also check trans fluid.

 

[avalonandl]

Lookd at an '08. Drove very well, AWD. Priced 13's

 

[avalonandl]

more

 

[avalonandl]

Well the REALLY clean 2011 I saw yesterday is sold ALREADY......

 

[avalonandl]

Found a 2012 and buying it. 135k miles , clean except for 1 small rust spot. Talked them down 1300$

Needs detailing. Includes the headsets for rear entertainment - in the box.....LOL

 

[Bigkevschopshop]

Annoying interior noise coming from the rear.. not a rattle and not sure where it is coming from exactly..
vehicle

I have found a few noises... ones I have fixed on my burb...

There is a rubber gasket that fits the interior trim panel to the quarter glass... PUll the panel and most of the time that rubber gasket trim piece is falling around etc... pull it out or re attach and fixed.. Also Rear door lock knobs, they get loose and make a almost rattle with weird pitch on bumps when driving... PUll the knob off, there is a small 1/8" tab inside there that puts pressure on the knob, give it a little heat, bend to make knob tight again. Also the rear appliques make noise from rubbing tabs under the quarter windows, piece of foam fixes them... I have also had luck pulling them and cleaning and re install. Last, check the jack storage and make sure its all in tight, the movement can cause a rub sound in some ways.....

Here is my list...
I am part of the cracked dash club...

Passenger wheel bearing at 115 made noise only when turning to the left... like a squeak. All fluids changed... 100k did new iridium plugs ac delco....I didn't drop the power steering fluid, I sucked it out, refiled multiple times and got clean on the 3rd run.. Trans fluid and filter, rear diff, struts up front, Front brake pads and rotors. DRL led upgrade looks much better when those stockers die. Rear ABS sensor replace due to failure. Drivers side door handle plastic pulled away from the nut so replacement. Turned AFM off with canned tune and hope that keeps my AFM from taking a big dump on my doors step. AC climate control aspirator replacement. AND last thing was blend door actuator for drivers side, clean, move grease where it needed to be, clean electric contacts, and worked like a charm.

Im at 124k miles, routine 4k to 5k oil changes full synthetic. When it cools off outside I am doing the coolant.

SIDE NOTE

6.2L folks... PISTON SLAP... my silverado with 6.2 had it and have heard of others in SUV having it, kinda sounds like a minor rod knock at cold start up then goes away after it hits about 180 degrees... known GM issue on those... Can be curbed by doing good maintenance and keeping good schedule also.. My silverado was a bit abused before I got it.

HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE LOOKING...
Great bang for the buck vehicles, and you can still work on the motors and not have a nuclear physics degree. A little maintenance goes a long way and few members on here are pushing the 300k miles mark on their nnbs.