Tonyrodz's Tahoe Build Thread

[Tonyrodz]

Got some really strange codes today. P0c00 P0053 C086b C1368--wtf are those? One is for a hybrid, another is for stabilitrak/skid control another is a supertuner code--I forget the other one.

 

[Snowbound]

Got some really strange codes today. P0c00 P0053 C086b C1368--wtf are those? One is for a hybrid, another is for stabilitrak/skid control another is a supertuner code--I forget the other one.

P0053- heated oxygen sensor resistance is out of range on bank 1 sensor 1
C086b code is related to the tuning. Usually associated with superchips tuner. Tuning software needs to be updated and the ECM needs to be reflashed with updated software.
The C code is a chassis code and can be a number of things. MAP, O2 or gas cap having to do with emissions system.
That P0C00 is a hybrid code like you said. It’s strange that it would come up like that. This could all be do to the tune not being updated. With your previous STFT and LTFT being so far off, I would start by replacing the O2 bank 1 sensor 1, and then disconnect battery while your swapping it and see what happens. Might have to go back to your tuner and get it updated. This may sound strange but with all the weird electrical shit you’ve had going on I would replace your battery negative cable and possibly the battery if it’s older. I just did my buddies ‘10 Tahoe negative cable after he had the BCM replaced and programmed and it didn’t solve his module communication issues. Kept saying CAN bus not connected. Replaced negative battery cable and it’s been a little over 3 weeks and he says it’s never run so good. Just a thought. Good luck.


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[Tonyrodz]

P0053- heated oxygen sensor resistance is out of range on bank 1 sensor 1
C086b code is related to the tuning. Usually associated with superchips tuner. Tuning software needs to be updated and the ECM needs to be reflashed with updated software.
The C code is a chassis code and can be a number of things. MAP, O2 or gas cap having to do with emissions system.
That P0C00 is a hybrid code like you said. It’s strange that it would come up like that. This could all be do to the tune not being updated. With your previous STFT and LTFT being so far off, I would start by replacing the O2 bank 1 sensor 1, and then disconnect battery while your swapping it and see what happens. Might have to go back to your tuner and get it updated. This may sound strange but with all the weird electrical shit you’ve had going on I would replace your battery negative cable and possibly the battery if it’s older. I just did my buddies ‘10 Tahoe negative cable after he had the BCM replaced and programmed and it didn’t solve his module communication issues. Kept saying CAN bus not connected. Replaced negative battery cable and it’s been a little over 3 weeks and he says it’s never run so good. Just a thought. Good luck.


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There was a little corrosion on the neg cable post. Cleaned it up best I could for the moment. Started it up and no check engine light. Scanner still wouldn't communicate. Battery is maybe a yr old. I'm just gonna wait and see what happens. No go with the guy who tuned it. Told him to go fu#% himself after he basically called me a liar. While he was working on it, he put a hole in the condensor. I know he did it because the system had just been serviced by my buddy. After spending $10,000 with him he wanted me "to convince him that he did it". Basically called me a liar. I was so pissed, I told him to go fu$% himself and gave him a bad review. Would it be possible to bring it to a different place and get it tuned just by knowing the cam specs and stall speed?

 

[Snowbound]

There was a little corrosion on the neg cable post. Cleaned it up best I could for the moment. Started it up and no check engine light. Scanner still wouldn't communicate. Battery is maybe a yr old. I'm just gonna wait and see what happens. No go with the guy who tuned it. Told him to go fu#% himself after he basically called me a liar. While he was working on it, he put a hole in the condensor. I know he did it because the system had just been serviced by my buddy. After spending $10,000 with him he wanted me "to convince him that he did it". Basically called me a liar. I was so pissed, I told him to go fu$% himself and gave him a bad review. Would it be possible to bring it to a different place and get it tuned just by knowing the cam specs and stall speed?

Should be able to have someone who uses the same tuning software look at tune, save it, and reflash it using the latest software update. Shouldn’t cost the same as tuning it because they don’t have to do any work but you’ll have to pay for the credit and a little bit of their time. But if the negative cable has corrosion, I’d start there. Replace it. It can be corroded inside the cable itself. Might be the cause of all the issues. Always start with the K.I.S.S method.


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[Sam Harris]

Should be able to have someone who uses the same tuning software look at tune, save it, and reflash it using the latest software update. Shouldn’t cost the same as tuning it because they don’t have to do any work but you’ll have to pay for the credit and a little bit of their time. But if the negative cable has corrosion, I’d start there. Replace it. It can be corroded inside the cable itself. Might be the cause of all the issues. Always start with the K.I.S.S method.


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Agree, this behavior sounds like a bad ground, based on all the symptoms I’ve seen related to that issue on these forums. With that being said, I still need to do the big 3/4 on my Yukon..

 

[Sam Harris]

Should be able to have someone who uses the same tuning software look at tune, save it, and reflash it using the latest software update. Shouldn’t cost the same as tuning it because they don’t have to do any work but you’ll have to pay for the credit and a little bit of their time. But if the negative cable has corrosion, I’d start there. Replace it. It can be corroded inside the cable itself. Might be the cause of all the issues. Always start with the K.I.S.S method.


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Double tap

 

[ivin74]

Double tap

X3

 

[Tonyrodz]

Everything was ok today, until I threw the belt--again. Grabbed a replacement idler pulley from Advance Auto. The design is a little different on the new one--not as concave as the stocker.

Also, I plugged in my better scanner and it scanned the Hoe with no issues. Maybe it's the cheap scanner. Who knows. I had to drive it overheating and just on the battery. I'm hoping I didn't damage anything.

 

[iamdub]

Lame. I would say we could tap in @randeez for input on the belt issue. But, I'm sure you wouldn't be interested in following his method of resolution.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Lame. I would say we could tap in @randeez for input on the belt issue. But, I'm sure you wouldn't be interested in following his method of resolution.

What's his method? Redo it completely? Beat it til it breaks?