Tonyrodz's Tahoe Build Thread

[Tonyrodz]

Can’t you use a puller with the arms on the hub flange? I see there’s a dimple in the center of the axle where it looks like the puller bolt goes.

Not sure, but I don't have a puller either. I forgot to mention I'm also going to replace the cv axle, since the one in there has a boot torn for about 4 yrs now. That's what I originally thought my issue was.

 

[George B]

Can’t you use a puller with the arms on the hub flange? I see there’s a dimple in the center of the axle where it looks like the puller bolt goes.

That just pushes the CV axle stub out of the hub.

 

[Tonyrodz]

I wonder if it would be easiest to crack the tie rod loose 1st then remove the axle, then the hub.

 

[Rocket Man]

That just pushes the CV axle stub out of the hub.

Isn’t that what rusts together? Seems if you did that then hit the hub with a bfh it would pop off. Or just loosen the axle nut a bit, then hit it with the bfh so the axle pops out the back and then hit the hub from the back.

 

[Rocket Man]

I wonder if it would be easiest to crack the tie rod loose 1st then remove the axle, then the hub.

You don’t need to do anything to the tie rod. You can pull the axle first and then the hub like I mentioned above. Don’t mess with the tie rod.

 

[07Burb]

Isn’t that what rusts together? Seems if you did that then hit the hub with a bfh it would pop off. Or just loosen the axle nut a bit, then hit it with the bfh so the axle pops out the back and then hit the hub from the back.

No, it usually rusts to the spindle and in high corrosion areas a BFH won't even touch it if it's been on there long enough. Almost like the hub and spindle become "one".

 

[Scottydoggs]

the spline part of the hub middle might just pull out the back with the axle still in it.

id try to take the hub off first, then the axel, then new axel in and then the new hub. if beating it with a hammer dont work, you can get a free rental puller at the parts store always. 3 jaw should work, but they sell/rent one that you use 3 lug nuts to bolt it on the hub and then drive the axel out with a bolt in it.

Amazon.com

 

[OR VietVet]

Before I saw the video @Tonyrodz had, we used to take the nut off and then thread back on to protect the axle threads and use a large dead blow hammer to break the axle loose at the splines. We then had washers in the shop that fit the stud diameter close and had flat nuts that would thread on to the studs and we would install a large slide hammer cage on the studs and sprayed penetrant where the seizing is taking place and we would take turns slamming the hell out of that large slide hammer. Worked in KC, Mo.

 

[Scottydoggs]

Before I saw the video @Tonyrodz had, we used to take the nut off and then thread back on to protect the axle threads and use a large dead blow hammer to break the axle loose at the splines. We then had washers in the shop that fit the stud diameter close and had flat nuts that would thread on to the studs and we would install a large slide hammer cage on the studs and sprayed penetrant where the seizing is taking place and we would take turns slamming the hell out of that large slide hammer. Worked in KC, Mo.

ive literally used a 5 lb baby sledge and beat hubs out of a spindle, countless times. ( only if replacing them) the back pair on my regal, factory from 98 240k on em, i had to pound a cold chisel between the hub and spindle, hit it on left and right side to get it moved out, then unloaded on it with the hammer like my normal MO lol

 

[George B]

Like others have said the hub seizes to the spindle. Usually the axle isn’t a problem. I have had some hellish fights changing hubs here in Wisconsin.