Transmission codes after rebuild

[rockola1971]

Next up I would Pull C1 and C2 connectors off the PCM (Disconnect your neg or pos at battery first) and ohm out the solenoids in the tranny via the c1 and c2 connectors. This will verify the wires are internally attached to the respective solenoids. The pinout is in the above attached schematic directly above the PCM at the very bottom of the schematic. While you are there at the PCM, inspect C1 and C2 connectors for the green crust which is corrosion and clean accordingly with a tooth brush and electrical contact cleaner such as Deoxit.

If all checks good at C1 and C2 then the solenoids, wiring harness from PCM to tranny is good and then I suspect the PCM is bad or possibly needs to be reflashed. This owuld lead me to believe the PCM caused the tranny needing to be rebuilt OR the tranny shop did damage to the PCM because they had something hooked up wrong at the tranny.

 

[Mickey_7106]

Thanks, just got home. will try your suggestions in a few days

 

[rockola1971]

Also check continuity of the battery to ground which i believe is G103 you mentioned. All good there too.

I dont know your schematic reading and electrical torubleshooting skills so just in case. You will need to pull IGN 0 fuse (10A). Stick a voltmeter on the terminals which the fuse was pulled from and see which one does NOT have 12v+ on it all the time.(Do this test before disconnecting battery) This will be your PINK wire to the top side of each solenoid and you can just stick a meter lead in that terminal for ohming out all solenoids in the tranny since that PINK wire is common to all the solenoids. Then take your other meter lead and stick it on each respecitive PCM plug terminal noted in the schematic for each solenoid. You should not read electrically open (infinite resistance) on any of the solenoid circuits. If you have any questions just ask away!

 

[Rocket Man]

Not saying it happened, but if they got the harness pinched at the top of the bellhousing where it crosses over it could be causing this. It’s happened before- there’s a couple harness clamps that go on studs at the top of the bellhousing instead of just bolts there. Some shops don’t bother with installing the studs and then attach the harness with nuts in the studs because it’s difficult so they just leave the harness hanging and put bolts in. Then the harness falls down into the gap and the trans is bolted up, pinching the harness. The only way to see up there is to remove the trans mount, let the tail hang down, and then you can shine a light up there and look. This is assuming the shop did the R&R?

 

[Mickey_7106]

I dont know your schematic reading and electrical torubleshooting skills so just in case. You will need to pull IGN 0 fuse (10A). Stick a voltmeter on the terminals which the fuse was pulled from and see which one does NOT have 12v+ on it all the time.(Do this test before disconnecting battery) This will be your PINK wire to the top side of each solenoid and you can just stick a meter lead in that terminal for ohming out all solenoids in the tranny since that PINK wire is common to all the solenoids. Then take your other meter lead and stick it on each respecitive PCM plug terminal noted in the schematic for each solenoid. You should not read electrically open (infinite resistance) on any of the solenoid circuits. If you have any questions just ask away!

i do ok with reading schematics. i don't know what a lot of the symbols mean but i can figure out the flow path if that make sense. Also i know how to troubleshoot using a multimeter and have basic knowledge on 12v and 120v electrical systems.

 

[Mickey_7106]

Not saying it happened, but if they got the harness pinched at the top of the bellhousing where it crosses over it could be causing this. It’s happened before- there’s a couple harness clamps that go on studs at the top of the bellhousing instead of just bolts there. Some shops don’t bother with installing the studs and then attach the harness with nuts in the studs because it’s difficult so they just leave the harness hanging and put bolts in. Then the harness falls down into the gap and the trans is bolted up, pinching the harness. The only way to see up there is to remove the trans mount, let the tail hang down, and then you can shine a light up there and look. This is assuming the shop did the R&R?

No pinching in this case. i used a bore scope to check a possible loose ground. My brothers did the R&R

 

[Rocket Man]

Something else I have heard of happening is the potting inside the electrical connector on the side of the trans fails with age and trans fluid gets inside that connector and shorts out the pins where you plug the harness in. That ones fairly easy to inspect by removing the wiring connector and looking inside the cavity on the side of the trans, especially with a borescope. You might just buy a wiring harness for the transmission, drop the pan and replace it also. I had one on hand and was going to replace it, I was having a 2-3 shift solenoid dtc and had already replaced the solenoid so I was fairly certain it was the harness. I ended up finding out from my trans builder that their build didn’t use that solenoid anyway so I just set it to not report that dtc in the tune. The problem is still there but the computer is none the wiser and the trans shifts fine. So the internal harnesses can fail on these- they’re submerged in trans fluid, not sure if that affects them.

 

[Just Fishing]

Rattling crap off from the top of my head,

If the plugs got plugged into the wrong places, or if the solenoids were faulty, it might cause some of the errors.
Grounds is a big one that could be missed.
Also installing the plug incorrectly or not completely locked in could cause some issues.

If all else fails,
"atsg 4l60e"

Good reads, there is a main repair manual, update manual, and the error code manual.
They also cover wiring and inspection of those solenoids.

Also, each solenoid has its own place, and they do fail.
If one got pulled from a large pile via the rebuilder, that could be a problem.
or if gunk ended up in one of the solenoids when the transmission failed, that's a thing.
Each one should rattle, search YouTube for details covering cleaning and inspection...

If you have a tech 2 (china clone works fine, I paid about $300 for mine), you can view detailed data, see open circuits and activate each module one by one.

That said,
These screams one of these to me,

plug failure (and that's common, look for transmission fluid leaking through the connector).
Issues related to a bad or sloppy install, or didn't hook everything up
Damaged wiring harness. (That could be internal or external to the transmission)
grounding issues (related to installation probably)

This is of course assuming everything worked fine before the rebuild, and that the current issues seen isn't related to why the transmission was rebuilt in the first place.

If a ground issues,
Try a jumper cable from the negative on the battery and connect the lead to the transmission case directly as a test.

 

[Mickey_7106]

I dont know your schematic reading and electrical torubleshooting skills so just in case. You will need to pull IGN 0 fuse (10A). Stick a voltmeter on the terminals which the fuse was pulled from and see which one does NOT have 12v+ on it all the time.(Do this test before disconnecting battery) This will be your PINK wire to the top side of each solenoid and you can just stick a meter lead in that terminal for ohming out all solenoids in the tranny since that PINK wire is common to all the solenoids. Then take your other meter lead and stick it on each respecitive PCM plug terminal noted in the schematic for each solenoid. You should not read electrically open (infinite resistance) on any of the solenoid circuits. If you have any questions just ask away!

Per your suggestion, I'm getting 21.5 ohms on C1 pin 79 and no reading on C2 2,42, 47 and 48.
Does that mean the solenoids are not plugged or just bad? I do have some oil coming through the round plug if that makes a difference

 

[Rocket Man]

Per your suggestion, I'm getting 21.5 ohms on C1 pin 79 and no reading on C2 2,42, 47 and 48.
Does that mean the solenoids are not plugged or just bad? I do have some oil coming through the round plug if that makes a difference View attachment 386188

I can’t tell from that pic, but if it’s coming through the center where the pins slide together then yes that’s a problem. A new internal wiring harness will fix that, it comes with that connector.