Truck wont crank

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MassHoe04

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Low voltage on dash but accessories work fine is weird

I gotcha i did turn the engine over moved no problem. When it clicks i noticed the throttle body door clicks as well and opens a little bit each click
05 Jeep had a split cable. Both wires came off the positive battery clamp. One direct to the starter motor. The other went to the power distribution center under the hood. The end of the one going to the starter was noticeably corroded inside the protective jacket. So yes... The shorter wire to the power block was feeding accessories, while the one to the starter motor was not able to conduct full power from the battery to the other end.

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Hanky

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05 Jeep had a split cable. Both wires came off the positive battery clamp. One direct to the starter motor. The other went to the power distribution center under the hood. The end of the one going to the starter was noticeably corroded inside the protective jacket. So yes... The shorter wire to the power block was feeding accessories, while the one to the starter motor was not able to conduct full power from the battery to the other end.

View attachment 357511
Awesome information man thanks im gonna pull that cable when i get off work
 

Jeff O

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I have a 2005 yukon xl with 5.3.
Battery, starter, alternator, grounds, connections are good. Starter is getting 12.5v to it. Connections to battery are clean and solid! This started after i put in cheap led license plate lights like an idiot and right after it wouldnt crank at all just clicks but not fast clicks. Swapped out starter relay with one i knew was good and same thing relay clicks. When i turn key the battery starts to get drained quickly. What could putting led license plate lights have done to make it where it wont even crank?? Any solid suggestions are much appreciated!
 

Jeff O

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Leaving aside all of the many valid suggestions on this forum which can cause these problems, and how they solved many of the common problems, mine was traced to corrosion in the lower connector of the main engine computer. GM mounted in on the left frame rail next to the engine and it is not sufficiently protected to protect from problems over time. Mine had five connector pins almost completely corroded away. It took about three months to figure this out, and many things replaced that did nothing, including rebuild of the body computer and the instrument cluster. The engine computer problem caused numerous mind blowing problems including failure to crank and overnight battery drain which required disconnecting the battery every time after driving the vehicle. The worst symptome was an occasional complete engine stoppage and then failure to crank. --Damn all this stupid automation. The only thing electronic I desire is a good FM radio.
 
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Hanky

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Leaving aside all of the many valid suggestions on this forum which can cause these problems, and how they solved many of the common problems, mine was traced to corrosion in the lower connector of the main engine computer. GM mounted in on the left frame rail next to the engine and it is not sufficiently protected to protect from problems over time. Mine had five connector pins almost completely corroded away. It took about three months to figure this out, and many things replaced that did nothing, including rebuild of the body computer and the instrument cluster. The engine computer problem caused numerous mind blowing problems including failure to crank and overnight battery drain which required disconnecting the battery every time after driving the vehicle. The worst symptome was an occasional complete engine stoppage and then failure to crank. --Damn all this stupid automation. The only thing electronic I desire is a good FM radio.
Deffinitly gonna keep this in mind so did you just have to get a new connector in this case or?
 
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Hanky

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It is a bad starter for sure
No its not the starter it was firing up with ease 5 minutes before i changed that license plate light. So a ground or cable maybe but not the starter itself i know that 100%
 

badtothe bone

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I have a 2005 yukon xl with 5.3.
Battery, starter, alternator, grounds, connections are good. Starter is getting 12.5v to it. Connections to battery are clean and solid! This started after i put in cheap led license plate lights like an idiot and right after it wouldnt crank at all just clicks but not fast clicks. Swapped out starter relay with one i knew was good and same thing relay clicks. When i turn key the battery starts to get drained quickly. What could putting led license plate lights have done to make it where it wont even crank?? Any solid suggestions are much appreciated!
I think you are confused.
Crap happens, doesn't matter what you did, now was when it decided to quit.
Everyone that suggested the starter would be close but no cigar.

To test the starter you must take it off, take it to advance Auto Parts and they can check it out.

My guess, and it's just a guess is that your ignition switch is bad.

Person that asked about alarm was also a good guess.

Most of those trucks already have remote starter, but aftermarket is a sure fire way to screw up the wiring.

Everything runs off the body control module.
Light amperage draw is monitored by BCM.

When you don't know what you are doing, don't screw with it.
You didn't know what you were doing!

As l tell my 85 year old father, it's not a 55. Chevy.
There are no points plug and condenser.

You can't fix it with a screwdriver, pliers and a socket wrench.

You can throw good money after bad at it or you can take it to the garage.

Drop the panel below the steering column and look at the wiring, jiggle it.
Go to the parts store and buy a ignition switch.

Watch the YouTube video how to install it.

If that doesn't help call a tow truck.

I junked that model of truck 3 years ago, just wasn't worth keeping on life support anymore.
 

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