Truck won't crank

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@89Suburban were you the one who used something like the ones that come with 18" of fuel line and a splice?

I think these are the ones:

Connectors only: Dorman 800-080 (5/16") and 800-082 (3/8")

Connectors with pigtail: Dorman 800-058 (3/8" with 18" fuel line) and Dorman 800-057 (5/16" with fuel line)
 
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nonickatall

nonickatall

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Same here in the northern and north eastern states. Do you know where in the states your Escalade came from? Just curious if your rust issue started here in the US or if it started in Germany.
My car is a European model and was delivered directly to Germany.

Fortunately, the underbody of my car was protected against corrosion early on and is in relatively good condition. But they probably didn't do anything to the fuel pump.

I'm annoyed because I've wanted to do the underbody for two years but never had the time. People's own cars are always the worst treated.
 
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nonickatall

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Makes sense now according to attached schematic they are using PCM B fuse also to power the Fuel Pump via the Fuel Pump Relay. Wonder why GM did away with the previous individual Fuel Pump Fuse.
Thank you very much for your help anyway. It gave me the crucial clues. I haven't really solved the problem yet, because the wiring harness looks OK and the fact that petrol leaked from the petrol pump shouldn't have caused an electrical fault.

But since the fault hasn't occurred since I pulled the petrol pump relay and the petrol pump was leaking and causing problems anyway, I think the connection is clear.

I'll need a few more days because I'm now doing the rust protection on the underbody at the same time, but I think I'll briefly hook the petrol pump up to the wiring harness today and just start the car with the petrol pump relay to see if the fuse stays intact.

In any case, you've helped me a lot...
Best regards from Germany
 

rockola1971

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My car is a European model and was delivered directly to Germany.

Fortunately, the underbody of my car was protected against corrosion early on and is in relatively good condition. But they probably didn't do anything to the fuel pump.

I'm annoyed because I've wanted to do the underbody for two years but never had the time. People's own cars are always the worst treated.
Here in the states its a known problem that "rustproofing" ultimately causes moisture to be trapped between the coating and the metal which ends up looking like your fuel pump module top. Its well hidden under the coating until the rust expands enough to start cracking the coating and chunks start to fall off.
 
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nonickatall

nonickatall

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@89Suburban were you the one who used something like the ones that come with 18" of fuel line and a splice?

I think these are the ones:

Connectors only: Dorman 800-080 (5/16") and 800-082 (3/8")

Connectors with pigtail: Dorman 800-058 (3/8" with 18" fuel line) and Dorman 800-057 (5/16" with fuel line)
Thank you very much, that helps a lot. I will check today where I can purchase these in Germany.
 

rockola1971

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Thank you very much for your help anyway. It gave me the crucial clues. I haven't really solved the problem yet, because the wiring harness looks OK and the fact that petrol leaked from the petrol pump shouldn't have caused an electrical fault.

But since the fault hasn't occurred since I pulled the petrol pump relay and the petrol pump was leaking and causing problems anyway, I think the connection is clear.

I'll need a few more days because I'm now doing the rust protection on the underbody at the same time, but I think I'll briefly hook the petrol pump up to the wiring harness today and just start the car with the petrol pump relay to see if the fuse stays intact.

In any case, you've helped me a lot...
Best regards from Germany
That fuse powers through the contact set of the fuel pump relay straight to the fuel pump. It could be the pump is shorted (Its motor windings melted together which lowers resistance and increases current draw)*NOTICE* I did NOT say short to ground for the pump or you have a wiring harness short to ground fault. Go to both contact terminals and measure to ground to check for a short to ground (with pump disconnected).
 
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nonickatall

nonickatall

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Here in the states its a known problem that "rustproofing" ultimately causes moisture to be trapped between the coating and the metal which ends up looking like your fuel pump module top. Its well hidden under the coating until the rust expands enough to start cracking the coating and chunks start to fall off.
I use Fluid Film and Permafilm to protect the car. That has the advantage, that you have a fluid material under the coating, so that when the coating gets cracks it does not really bring problems. I have very good experience with that material in the past decades.

But since 2 years when I bought the car I was want to do that.

I had to do some work at the front end because my front wheel bearing hubs were broken and I was protecting the front, which is absolutely free from rust, but the rear end I struggled because if to many of work and a divorce between...

But as I always say: Sometimes you lose and sometimes the others win... :Big Laugh:
 

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