Upper and Lower Ball Joints

[Scoair]

I have a 2wd 2004 tahoe. The upper and lower ball joints need to be replaced. Also the rear main seal, differential seal, and adapter seals are leaking. Im not sure where these are located but i want to fix these problems too if they would be something that goes along with the joints. Is there anything else i should replace while im doing the joints so that i dont have to go back in there anytime in the near future? Also which joints are the best and please provide a link.
P.S. This is my first post and i have a lot to learn. There will be many more.

 

[seven9st surfer]

I'm going to be replacing my ball joints soon, too. One of them has a tear in the boot, leaking grease, so I'm just going to replace them all. I did a lot of research, and the 2 brands that I narrowed it down to are the Moog and ACDelco Pro line.

ACDelco upper
ACDelco lower

Moog upper
Moog lower

I think I'm going to end up going with the Moog. You can fine these all on Rockauto, too, for a little bit cheaper, just make sure you're double checking that these model will work on your truck, too.

While I have my front end torn apart, I'm also going to replace my pitman and idler arms, as my steering is really sloppy and loose (and last time I had it in the shop, they noted they were loose). Going to use the Moog HD parts for this. My stabilizer bar end link bushings look pretty shot, too, so again I'll be using Moog HD parts to replace. I would just get under the truck and check out all your parts for any excessive play and/or any worn or torn boots or bushings and replace appropriately.

 

[01ssreda4]

Id do tie rods also if I had it apart

 

[rockola1971]

I would inspect stabilizer bar bushings but most likely if they are original they need replaced. They are inexpensive and easily changed out. I would replace ALL control arm bushings if have the tools needed (Press or ball joint removal tool with correct adaptors). The control arm bushings are inexpensive. Just do it all and be done with it if you can.

4 Control arm bushings per side.
2 stabilizer bushings
2 tie rods
2 inner rods
pitman arm
idler arm
2 ball joints per side
1 stabilizer link kit per side
You might need to replace the 2 upper control arm bolts per side. They usually seize to the bushings and require cutting out.
Check the brakes and rotors why you have it all apart.
Inspect the wheel bearings too and replace if needed with grease seal.
Inspect brake hoses to calipers. Look for abrasions, bulging of hose and any sign of rotting of the rubber.

 

[seven9st surfer]

I would inspect stabilizer bar bushings but most likely if they are original they need replaced. They are inexpensive and easily changed out. I would replace ALL control arm bushings if have the tools needed (Press or ball joint removal tool with correct adaptors). The control arm bushings are inexpensive. Just do it all and be done with it if you can.

4 Control arm bushings per side.
2 stabilizer bushings
2 tie rods
2 inner rods
pitman arm
idler arm
2 ball joints per side
1 stabilizer link kit per side
You might need to replace the 2 upper control arm bolts per side. They usually seize to the bushings and require cutting out.
Check the brakes and rotors why you have it all apart.
Inspect the wheel bearings too and replace if needed with grease seal.
Inspect brake hoses to calipers. Look for abrasions, bulging of hose and any sign of rotting of the rubber.

So you'd replace the inner and outer tie rods regardless of current condition? I was considering it, but last time I was under the truck it all felt pretty solid with no play or wiggle. Anything else to check on them that would warrant a replacement?

Also, looks like the only parts you didn't mention were the stabilizer bar and center link. Why'd you leave those out? I would assume because they're just solid bars, and don't really wear out? They're pretty expensive, too..

Edit: Trying to find the Moog lower control arm bushing part number. The site says K6724, but that looks too short and fat, and rockauto has that part listed as a "shock absorber bushing". Any ideas?

Not trying to take over the thread, but hopefully some of this helps out OP

 

[rockola1971]

So you'd replace the inner and outer tie rods regardless of current condition? I was considering it, but last time I was under the truck it all felt pretty solid with no play or wiggle. Anything else to check on them that would warrant a replacement?

Also, looks like the only parts you didn't mention were the stabilizer bar and center link. Why'd you leave those out? I would assume because they're just solid bars, and don't really wear out? They're pretty expensive, too..

Edit: Trying to find the Moog lower control arm bushing part number. The site says K6724, but that looks too short and fat, and rockauto has that part listed as a "shock absorber bushing". Any ideas?

Not trying to take over the thread, but hopefully some of this helps out OP

Id replace the the outer and inners unless the age is known AND they are good condition. The reason being is there will need to be an alignment done so get it all done at once for the alignment and be done with it. The stabilizer bar and center link dont usually wear out. They can be damaged but thats about it. There are 2 control arm bushings per control arm and they are usually different sizes (front vs rear) on the control arm.