Thank you! I'm going to pull the radio tomorrow and see if I can fix it. Seems like the center console is pretty involved - that may have to happen after the trip and I'll have to deal with the complaints!
Being that it only does it with the aux port (or is it also with the radio and/or CD player?) leads me to believe it's a fault within the HU. Could be as simple as a loose solder joint on that circuit.
Simple, but not
easy as you'd have to open up the HU and, even then, know how to trace and test electronic circuits. With the aux cable plugged in, does the sound change if you press on the plug end to move it in any direction or twist it in the jack or even slightly pull it in or push it out?
I'm also going to attempt to do my first ever oil change on any car or truck...I have a couple of videos - any whatchouts I need to think about. The tips you guys gave me on the heater hoses and the air suspension was really what made this stuff pretty easy!
I've done so many that the tips and tricks are all automatic so I don't think of 'em. A few general tips that first come to mind:
Remove the oil fill cap and rest it on the spout to still keep it covered, but not sealed. I don't know how much difference it makes, but, my thoughts are that it lets air in so the oil drains out better.
Flatten out a cardboard box to put under the drain pan, favoring the right (passenger) side to protect the concrete until you're a pro.
I think one of the biggest issues is removing the old filter. So many shops overtighten them. There are numerous tricks with YouTube vids on removing them. Some involve attaining a better grip and leverage on the filter and some involve crushing and/or stabbing it with tools to have a handle. Obviously, you would try the non-piercing methods first to avoid the mess. Once you have it loose and begin to spin it off, oil will quickly begin to flow down the body. Some people hammer a nail through the bottom center of the filter to let it drain before they remove it. If you try this, have a really sharp nail and be in a position to hit it hard with a hammer. If not, you'll just cave in the center of the filter before you poke through. Once I crack mine loose and drain it, I grab it with my hand and forearm in two or three plastic grocery bags, each inside the other. These act like a loose glove while I twist it off. I hold it through the plastic bags and slide them up to capture the filter in the bags and tie it off. The filter and any oil is contained on the inside.
I start by pre-filling the filter. I flip it over inside the box to hold it upright, fill it and let it soak in while I remove the old filter, drain the old oil, remove the wheels (I rotate tires every oil change), etc. and come back to it to top it off and repeat as necessary. Between top-offs, I close the box lid to keep dust in the air from contaminating the oil since I dust off my brakes while I have the wheels off. I fill the filter until the oil floods the top and covers the smaller holes surrounding the large center hole, but remains inside the gasket. Then I use a small blunt punch to press the seal all around through those small holes to let the oil drain into there to soak the filter media from the outside in. When I'm done, the filter is completely saturated and full up to the bottom of the threads. I'm not on a time schedule, so why not take the time? Right before installing, I dip the pad of my finger in the oil in the filter and smear a light coat onto the gasket.
After you remove the old filter, oil will drip from those holes for a long time. My drain pan is big enough to catch that oil plus the oil draining out of the engine. If yours isn't, just drain and replace the filter first then drain the engine or vice versa.
Position the drain pan farther to the right than you might think it needs, but keep the edge of the pan still directly under the drain cuz it does drip there. When the oil first comes out, it's gonna reach about 12" from the drain hole, depending on how high you have the front raised. As it drains, it'll lose pressure and gradually reduce its distance. Slide the drain pan to follow it. I let mine drain and drip while I do all the other stuff.
After you crack the plug loose, keep inward pressure on it the entire time as you unscrew it. This will minimize the oil spraying all over your hand while you're backing out the plug. You want it backed out to the point you feel the starting point of the threads click against each other as you turn it counterclockwise with the inward pressure. At that point, the only thing holding the plug in place is you pushing inward on it, so you can yank your hand to quickly snap the plug out and away from the oil pan and the following stream of oil. I reach over the sway bar to grab and remove the plug so my hand is already above and to the side of the drain hole. The way this part gets messy is by someone not keeping inward pressure or it still has half a thread or so of engagement. So, when they try to quickly remove the plug, it snags and oil is spraying all around as they frantically try to grab the plug again to turn it that one last half turn or so. Then they drop it in the drain pan and their hands sling oil everywhere.
I keep a case of the Super Tech brake parts cleaner on hand at all times. It's cheap and works great for quickly cleaning the spilled oil off the oil filter boss, oil pan and sway bar. Wear safety goggles, keep your mouth shut and be mindful of where and what you're spraying to avoid splashback.
I think the only questions in my mind are - how hard to tighten the filter
There should be actual instructions on this. Something like "turn until gasket makes contact then another half or full turn". I just go by feel. I use K&N filters which have a 1" nut welded to the bottom so I turn it with that instead of trying to grip the side of the filter.
and how much oil put back in (6 qts sound right)?
I've always used 6 quarts. I have about 5.5 in the jug after filling the filter. 6 always puts it right on the line.
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