Want to take my 2010 Yukon XL Denali with 180,000 miles for a family trip from Michigan To Florida - Can you help me make this a success!

[bobby2175]

Here's my mess underneath before I did the oil change - not best pictures, but you can see I have an oil leak going. The circle in pink is actually showing a drop of oil even though it doesn't look that way.

Any thoughts or not very clear with my bad pictures.

 

[Fless]

hit your local junkyard, you will need the light/mounting clip and harness, the place to mount it is still there on the hood

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Nah, I don't need it.

 

[Doubeleive]

Nah, I don't need it.

that was juat a quick look there are brand new ones and led ones for the same price, I was kind of dissapointed when I bought my 12 that it didn't even have reflectors on the door panels, let alone lights or floor lights, nada had to add my own, putting in led roof lights helped a lot.

 

[iamdub]

gloves don't really work for me unless i change them a lot because my hands sweat too much, some regular breathable gloves seem to work ok

The rubber, nitrile, latex, etc. gloves all make my hands sweat and shrivel like I've been soaking in a tub. I only wear them when what I'm messing with is dangerous or will be hard to get off my skin.

 

[iamdub]

Here's my mess underneath before I did the oil change - not best pictures, but you can see I have an oil leak going. The circle in pink is actually showing a drop of oil even though it doesn't look that way.

Any thoughts or not very clear with my bad pictures.

So many possible sources with it all over like that. You're gonna have to clean it all off and check it periodically to see where the fresh oil is leaking from to find the source(s). I'd strongly suspect it's at least from the oil cooler gasket. Hit it with a few rounds of Super Tech foaming engine cleaner and a scrub brush. Final clean with brake parts cleaner then a good dish soap and water rinse.

 

[Doubeleive]

Here's my mess underneath before I did the oil change - not best pictures, but you can see I have an oil leak going. The circle in pink is actually showing a drop of oil even though it doesn't look that way.

Any thoughts or not very clear with my bad pictures.

the problem here is wind blows it all over.
but.. you can pull that round plate off the transmission housing and look in there with a flashlight and a telescoping mirror and see if the rear main is leaking
it could also be the adapter gasket above the oil filter where the oil cooler lines are
or it could be the valve covers or oil pressure sensor
and as dub stated clean it up as best you can and then go drive it 10-15 miles and then get under it and look for a fresh oil source

 

[petethepug]

Good idea for p/c the spare. I did the same on our other car and did a little research on rim sizing, center bores, lug patterns and diameters. It turns out you can take a 90’s Lexus steel rim, enlarge the lugs just a fraction and slap on a space saving spare from a Porsche. After p/c the rim red, clear was applied and the rest is history. No more pizza cutter spare.







Here’s the weird part when you inflate the folding spare tire

 

[bobby2175]

Was looking at disabling AFM. Can this be done via a blackbear tune or do I need to also make hardware changes?..

 

[iamdub]

Was looking at disabling AFM. Can this be done via a blackbear tune or do I need to also make hardware changes?..

Disable can be done with a tune or plug-in device. I strongly recommend a tune over the plug-in device. It can be done for as little as ~$60 by sending your PCM here but disabling AFM is all that will be done- no changes to the fuel, spark or trans tables. If getting a full tune is in your budget, I'd strongly recommend that since there is plenty to be improved with the factory tune that can not only improve drivability, but increase the transmission's life. The extra power to the wheels actually ends up being a fringe benefit. If you don't have or aren't sure of a reputable tuner near you, I'd recommend Black Bear as the safe default. With a 6.2, you should be running 91-93 already, so consider this when talking to a tuner. With a disable, no hardware changes are necessary. A delete involves replacing the AFM components with their non-AFM counterparts: Cam, lifters, VLOM, etc.

 

[bobby2175]

After reading several threads I saw a few people proactively changing the torque converter. Is this something I should consider?