Since I wrote this reply a couple weeks ago and then never hit send, I’m a little late to the game. However, I’ll chime in on a few things to potentially help the next guy or maybe someone at random who reads through this.
The torque converter question all depends on the mileage your transmission has on it and what kind of maintenance it’s had. There’s no point in putting in a brand new TC if your trans needs rebuilt. The last thing you want to do is mess up a brand new converter. The same goes for a trans rebuild without replacing the TC, as you would then run the risk of that frag grenade wiping out a newly rebuilt transmission. I’m not even sure if a reputable shop would rebuild or warranty their work on the transmission without having replaced the torque converter.
If you have the funds available, you might as well buy the Tech2. If you’re not planning to keep the Yukon or have several other vehicles that are not products of GM, then the Autel might be the right choice. Just know that even that model doesn’t do everything the tech2 can (simple $h*t like a full system brake bleed - despite what it says…doesn’t work for our vehicles. The same goes for some key fob programming - it doesn’t work on specific models like my wife’s old car or my uncles Lexus…despite what the instructions and online info said the product could do). I was a little pissed to have
spent [wasted] the money, which is why I ended up buying a genuine Tech2, full gambit with the candi, laptop and hard case. Take a look at this item - eBay item no. 186109718891
As for the oil change, I have to make a couple comments for any of the new guys who lack the Jedi abilities to pull the plug without splashing a drop of oil. First hint…do NOT pull the fill cap prior to pulling the drain plug. Hot oil moving way too fast for the rookies. Wait to pull the cap until after you’re out from under the vehicle - in a safe zone. Just be mindful of your drain pans location. Personally I have my drain pan sitting up close to the vehicle frame to prevent spillage, and I also use a splash pad inside my drain pan to keep oil from getting all over the place. The same goes for my transmission drain pan. It has an oversized splash pad/mat for the larger catch pan, and they normally sit on top of a metal drip pan (large rectangle pan, very shallow but helps with any: “areas of concern, oops’, oh $h*ts!, or by the way’s…”; all of which are sitting on a big piece of cardboard.
For those that don’t already know, or for whatever reason don’t own a funnel, you can cut the bottom out of a Mobil-1 quart and thread it onto your oil fill tube, which can then be used as a makeshift funnel. I keep it along with one and a spare quart of Mobil-1 in my Denali for just such an occasion. This may work with other brands, but I can’t say for certain as I have never used any engine oil in any of my vehicles besides Mobil-1. The trans and differentials have only ever seen ACDelco, Amsoil or Royal Purple. Other than my ‘02 which used GM’s special blue Transfer Case fluid. I’m sure someone else can chime in.
Lastly on the oil change topic. See the photo below in the event you do not already own enough tools or lack the patience to become one with your Jedi abilities. This is a flexible drain/fill plug tool that uses a neodymium (rare earth) magnet to assist in unthreading the final turns necessary to safely (and cleanly) remove the plug. Doing so without dropping it into the pan splashing oil all over yourself, your clean cardboard, the underside of your vehicle…etc, is somewhat of a learned skill.
OTC - 5911A
