Good catch. I didn't even see that typo yo.
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Good catch. I didn't even see that typo yo.
That video looks like you'll be having some fun but like you said at least it's not under the dash. I did the recirc door actuator and that one's 5 times harder than the blend door.Since I've had my Yukon that back HVAC has not worked properly. I tracked it down to what I thought was a bad air blend door actuator. As it it now starting to get hotter, I decided to tackle the project. After watching some videos it seemed pretty straight forward, just removing all the interior trim and panels to actually get at it. Much simpler than getting to the passenger side front actuator that I replaced last year.
Finally got to it, and pulled it out and to my surprise this is what I found:
View attachment 178673
The shaft came out with the actuator, and appears to be no longer attached to the blend door.
So I guess today, all I did was find out that I have a larger problem to deal with, and the actuator is likely fine.
Has anyone else dealt with a similar problem? I assume I have to pull the whole HVAC unit and split it open to replace the door? Any pointers would be welcome.
EDIT: Quick search turned up this video with my exact problem.
That video looks like you'll be having some fun but like you said at least it's not under the dash. I did the recirc door actuator and that one's 5 times harder than the blend door.
Yeah, at least it's some what accessible. My first thought was to try to epoxy the broken spindle after seeing the break in the video. But I can also get the whole housing for $90 delivered, so if I am going to have to take it apart to try to fix the break, I should probably just replace the unit with a new one rather than having to take it apart a second time when the epoxy lets go.That video looks like you'll be having some fun but like you said at least it's not under the dash. I did the recirc door actuator and that one's 5 times harder than the blend door.
Yeah, at least it's some what accessible. My first thought was to try to epoxy the broken spindle after seeing the break in the video. But I can also get the whole housing for $90 delivered, so if I am going to have to take it apart to try to fix the break, I should probably just replace the unit with a new one rather than having to take it apart a second time when the epoxy lets go.
View attachment 178679 View attachment 178679 Got new tires and some new (old) rims before leaving for vacation. Then decided to change rear diff fluid, as she's approaching 100K. Changed fluid and found fluid on garage floor next day. Was brake fluid and found brake line above axle rusted And now leaking. Ordered prebent kit. Installed rear axle lines. Go to bleed right rear caliper, bleeder screw rusted shut. Spent couple hours trying to remove bleeder. Ended up buying new calipers. Bleed right rear and then do left rear. Brake fluid starts leaking from middle of truck. The line from abs module to rear center hose blew a hole . Found video on YouTube where guy shows you how to feed that line in. Got that line in, and bled brakes. We made it to the beach, thanks to the info I found on this site.