What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Tonyrodz

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odd for sure. id be taking that rocker cover off asap and id try not to drive it till you look things over.

would really suck if its a rounded cam lobe.
I hope not, but honestly it doesn't sound internal. Not in the motor itself. Hopefully it won't rain Saturday, that's the only time I can look at it.
 

04Huck

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Well I'm done for the day. Sway bar is banging against something (probably why It needs to be moved over 2 inches)

No free travel mod because cheap harbor freight cutoff and sawsall

I did my free travel mod with a Ryobi sawzall and some good blades and a grinder to smooth it out. Your sway bar is hitting the panhard bar bracket on the passenger side. Once you do the relocation, it’ll bolt on the other side of that bracket and sit just in between the panhard bracket and the shock.

Like this
fb68e9cfbf55950bd2f9d6b732502a21.jpg


Also, you don’t have to buy nuts for the new holes when you relocate the drivers mount. You just have to make sure to drill and tap the original size of the original bolts and you can reuse them

View attachment 198961 View attachment 198962
I think 2/3 is perfect for what I want

View attachment 198972


That’s what I thought at first too lol. 4/4 is perfect IMO


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

Bombsquad85

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Ok guys I'm missing something For sure.

I moved the sway bar over 2" like I was recommended, however, when I do so the sway bar hits the axle on the driverside and the shock on the passenger side. When I leave it where it is but bolt it to the new endlinks it has clearance all around (full compression and max extension)

what am I doing wrong??

First 2 are with it moved to the passenger side 2"
20180510_114811.jpg 20180510_114832.jpg

Factory location just mounted to new endlinks
20180510_120158.jpg
20180510_120150.jpg

These are taken at full compression
 

04Huck

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Ok guys I'm missing something For sure.

I moved the sway bar over 2" like I was recommended, however, when I do so the sway bar hits the axle on the driverside and the shock on the passenger side. When I leave it where it is but bolt it to the new endlinks it has clearance all around (full compression and max extension)

what am I doing wrong??

First 2 are with it moved to the passenger side 2"
View attachment 199031 View attachment 199032

Factory location just mounted to new endlinks
View attachment 199033
View attachment 199030

These are taken at full compression

How low are you in the rear? I know when I put my bar on after I had pull the spring spacers to go 4" in the rear, my axle was at full droop and the sway bar hit the axle. I had to raise it up to close to ride height before the sway bar would mount properly. I'm not entirely sure those will work if you're higher than 4" in the rear. They MIGHT work at 3" but it'd be close I'd bet.

**I looked again and see your axle is fully drooped. It will hit that way. You have to jack up the axle quite a bit to get it to clear. This also means you cannot leave your axle at droop in the future without taking off the rear swaybar.
 

Bombsquad85

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How low are you in the rear? I know when I put my bar on after I had pull the spring spacers to go 4" in the rear, my axle was at full droop and the sway bar hit the axle. I had to raise it up to close to ride height before the sway bar would mount properly. I'm not entirely sure those will work if you're higher than 4" in the rear. They MIGHT work at 3" but it'd be close I'd bet.

**I looked again and see your axle is fully drooped. It will hit that way. You have to jack up the axle quite a bit to get it to clear. This also means you cannot leave your axle at droop in the future without taking off the rear swaybar.

I'm at 3".

Those pictures are with the axle all the way up.

I'l get more pics with it on the ground. I just checked the front UCAs and I didn' cut enough off the bolt. It rubbed on the axle boot. Luckily it didn' go through so I cut more off and there' 1-2mm of clearance
 

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