What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Fosscore

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Lol. The camera definitely highlights it.... but they're actually pretty clean (I'd say 85th percentile, easy) in person. I am forming my spring plan of attack already. I got the tires and key crank accomplished before winter, but it's bearing down on us, now.

Yeah buddy. I’ll keep my less summer over a Chicago winter any day.

You know how it is. This thread is a microscope on high power. Show off the good and the huddled masses pick out the defect. Lol. No quarter. No mercy!
 

rgosart

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Thanks for the details. I’m hoping it doesn’t ride like shit. Hell, after reading about how terrible the ride is after cranking the keys, I’m considering dropping the rear to level, rather that bumping the front up..
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It wont ride like shit. @HiHoeSilver and I promise. Notice the people who had the most issues are the ones that went WAY TOO FAR.

My brother in law cranked his keys all the way to max to fit some 35's I believe. Hates the way it rides now.

I've owned a bunch of off road rigs and it's always true... You get what you pay for. A true lift kit is where it's at that way you don't compromise the handling.

i did keys on my 03 2500 hd pick up. wish i never did. made the ride stiffer then a old ford 350 with a solid axle.

the lower arms were pushed all the way down and had no real movement/travel to them at all. only time it rode nice was when i had the plow on the front, with the extra weight the front end would actually move and feel like normal.

if you hit a large pot hole the truck would just fall in the hole. oh, and it broke front shocks like crazy.

This is not what happens with an inch or two to level the truck for 33s. Like I said, it's free to try it. I'm not a fan of lowered 4x4 trucks. Just my preference...
 

Scottydoggs

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It wont ride like shit. @HiHoeSilver and I promise. Notice the people who had the most issues are the ones that went WAY TOO FAR.





This is not what happens with an inch or two to level the truck for 33s. Like I said, it's free to try it. I'm not a fan of lowered 4x4 trucks. Just my preference...


i had my keys cranked up already. and my 03 gmc hd pick up was already higher then most stock trucks when i got it new. 33's would not clear. had to do a small lift. them keys sucked.

keys up front, 2 inch blocks out back. looked fantastic, rode like a brick.

MVC-004F.JPG
 

rgosart

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i had my keys cranked up already. and my 03 gmc hd pick up was already higher then most stock trucks when i got it new. 33's would not clear. had to do a small lift. them keys sucked.

keys up front, 2 inch blocks out back. looked fantastic, rode like a brick.

View attachment 236535

Yeah that is exactly what I was talking about in one of my posts about leveling it to match the rear with blocks. That's too much for keys. Maybe it was the offset of your wheels or the width of your tires, but both @HiHoeSilver and I cleared 275/70r18s (33.2") before any cranking (granted it was close) and just used keys to level after that. The wheels that both of us used are newer factory take offs with positive (+34 I think) offset. This makes it easier to clear larger tires. My UCAs are not on the stops, so my Tahoe does not ride like a brick and fall into holes like you're describing. I still have down travel. Breaking front shocks regularly is not a good sign and I certainly don't expect to see that with mine.
 

alaska_guy

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Took my factory bose radio out and replaced all the buttons that were worn with new ac delco buttons. Radio looks new again! Good $20 spent.

Bummer, got it all in and one of the lights doesn't work for back lighting buttons 1/2 3/4.

Guess I will have to remove it again when its warmer and look into LED's.
 
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Scottydoggs

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Yeah that is exactly what I was talking about in one of my posts about leveling it to match the rear with blocks. That's too much for keys. Maybe it was the offset of your wheels or the width of your tires, but both @HiHoeSilver and I cleared 275/70r18s (33.2") before any cranking (granted it was close) and just used keys to level after that. The wheels that both of us used are newer factory take offs with positive (+34 I think) offset. This makes it easier to clear larger tires. My UCAs are not on the stops, so my Tahoe does not ride like a brick and fall into holes like you're describing. I still have down travel. Breaking front shocks regularly is not a good sign and I certainly don't expect to see that with mine.

driver side front tire rubbed inside the back side of the wheel well liner and hit the plastic under the bumper. both sides needed to be trimmed under the bumper.

my lack of ride quality could be due to the truck was a 2500 hd. its t bars are easily twice as thick as the tahoes. its just a 1500 set up. much softer ride.

the adjuster bolts to the keys were like just threaded in and pushing on them lightly. hardly cranked on. even after the keys i had to trim the plastic on the driver side where the ebrake cable runs out the cab, only rubbed when turned all the way and backing up. and those are 33x12.5 wide on a 16.5 wheel. they stuck out past the fender flare by a inch or so. still dont change the fact it rode like crap.

i used to get 50k out of a set of BFG's. rotated every 6k and ran em at 50 psi. only way they last past 30k. i also had many alignments and new parts installed over the years. and never spin and smoke this brand tire if stuck. they melt like butter. pretty soft tire compound.

i also put 3,000 miles a month on this truck, and the one before it. my poor 97 gmc 3500 had 175k on it in 5 years. oil change every month tires rotated every other oil change. lots of fun on a 8 lug set up with just a cross bar lug wrench....at least i could just slide under it to do oil changes lol ill also note, these tires and wheels were on the 97 first, sold that truck and kept the wheels and tires, they didnt rub on shit on the 97 bone stock. go figure right?
 

HiHoeSilver

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Yeah that is exactly what I was talking about in one of my posts about leveling it to match the rear with blocks. That's too much for keys. Maybe it was the offset of your wheels or the width of your tires, but both @HiHoeSilver and I cleared 275/70r18s (33.2") before any cranking (granted it was close) and just used keys to level after that. The wheels that both of us used are newer factory take offs with positive (+34 I think) offset. This makes it easier to clear larger tires. My UCAs are not on the stops, so my Tahoe does not ride like a brick and fall into holes like you're describing. I still have down travel. Breaking front shocks regularly is not a good sign and I certainly don't expect to see that with mine.

The wheels I believe are 31 offset. Also, just to clarify, I used the stock keys.
 

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