What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Rocket Man]

It's the one everybody disables

Nobody disables any lights that I know of. We don’t have driving lights, do you mean Daytime Running Lights (DRL’s)? If so, how are you testing them? They only come on in daylight, with the ignition in the run position, transmission in drive. You can either do it with the engine running by using a helper or a mirror since you’ll have to keep a foot on the brake, or with the engine off but key in the “on” (not accessory) position and on level ground so the truck doesn’t roll, with shifter in drive. That way you can get out and look. Also- If you install LED bulbs they have polarity so if they’re in backward they won’t work.

 

[druiddonn]

Nobody disables any lights that I know of. We don’t have driving lights, do you mean Daytime Running Lights (DRL’s)? If so, how are you testing them? They only come on in daylight, with the ignition in the run position, transmission in drive. You can either do it with the engine running by using a helper or a mirror since you’ll have to keep a foot on the brake, or with the engine off but key in the “on” (not accessory) position and on level ground so the truck doesn’t roll, with shifter in drive. That way you can get out and look. Also- If you install LED bulbs they have polarity so if they’re in backward they won’t work.

I think it's the bulbs I read somewhere that for testing purposes they will come on with the parking brake engaged the Halos and LEDs in my new headlights are coming on so if it's not the socket it's the bulb hopefully it's just the bulb and I've ordered LED bulbs for all three sockets along the bottom and you're correct they are daytime running lights

 

[Dantheman1540]

Swapped out a possibly bricked ecu last night. Went to flash a new tune file on my Tahoe at about 830 in the evening only to have it fail during the erasing process.

I am super **** about setting up for a tune flash and always follow a few rules:

-Head lights off
-Cab and dash lights off/dim
-Radio off
-AC blowers off

Anyway the erase failed and the truck would not start. I tried a few more times and got the same error (Controller Unlocker Timer Failed).

I tried all of the following to resolve the issue assuming its a problem with the truck:

-Pulled entire radio
-Disconnected AMP
-Disconnect battery and let sit for 30 mins+
-Disconnect AFR gauge
-Different USB port on laptop
-Laptop charged 100% plus plugged in
-Laptop restarted and all other programs shut down
-Hooked battery charger to battery during write
-Hooked my Tacoma up with jumper cables to give extra juice
-Unplugged ECU and inspected connectors and pins

None of this worked with the factory ECU

Finally I went and grabbed the ECU out of my other truck that's tore apart and swapped them. First attempt I got the same error, Second attempt reminded me that I was flashing a file with the wrong operating system as my RCSB runs on a 4bar MAP OS vs my Tahoe on a MAF OS which means instead of just writing a new calibration I had to rewrite the entire operating system. First attempt at writing entire it made it to 30.8% and then stalled out giving me the same damn error!!!!!!!! I almost quit at this point and may or may not have slung some wrenches across my yard. Attempted one more time and after about 20 agonizing minutes it successfully wrote and the truck is good to go again!


Went for a test drive and all was good so I whipped some donuts in my side yard. Very frustrated at this as I have no idea what suddenly caused this issue. I have flashed the truck several dozen times with no issues like this.

Going in investigate the following to prevent future issues:

-After market radio chime adapter (Some vague info on HPT forum about these causing issues)
-Bad ground somewhere (Although I replaced several last year just cause they were ugly)
-OBD2 port pins and possible replace the port completely
-Sell my soul to the devil
-Contract a COVID and a ******* addiction

 

[Rocket Man]

Swapped out a possibly bricked ecu last night. Went to flash a new tune file on my Tahoe at about 830 in the evening only to have it fail during the erasing process.

I am super **** about setting up for a tune flash and always follow a few rules:

-Head lights off
-Cab and dash lights off/dim
-Radio off
-AC blowers off

Anyway the erase failed and the truck would not start. I tried a few more times and got the same error (Controller Unlocker Timer Failed).

I tried all of the following to resolve the issue assuming its a problem with the truck:

-Pulled entire radio
-Disconnected AMP
-Disconnect battery and let sit for 30 mins+
-Disconnect AFR gauge
-Different USB port on laptop
-Laptop charged 100% plus plugged in
-Laptop restarted and all other programs shut down
-Hooked battery charger to battery during write
-Hooked my Tacoma up with jumper cables to give extra juice
-Unplugged ECU and inspected connectors and pins

None of this worked with the factory ECU

Finally I went and grabbed the ECU out of my other truck that's tore apart and swapped them. First attempt I got the same error, Second attempt reminded me that I was flashing a file with the wrong operating system as my RCSB runs on a 4bar MAP OS vs my Tahoe on a MAF OS which means instead of just writing a new calibration I had to rewrite the entire operating system. First attempt at writing entire it made it to 30.8% and then stalled out giving me the same damn error!!!!!!!! I almost quit at this point and may or may not have slung some wrenches across my yard. Attempted one more time and after about 20 agonizing minutes it successfully wrote and the truck is good to go again!


Went for a test drive and all was good so I whipped some donuts in my side yard. Very frustrated at this as I have no idea what suddenly caused this issue. I have flashed the truck several dozen times with no issues like this.

Going in investigate the following to prevent future issues:

-After market radio chime adapter (Some vague info on HPT forum about these causing issues)
-Bad ground somewhere (Although I replaced several last year just cause they were ugly)
-OBD2 port pins and possible replace the port completely
-Sell my soul to the devil
-Contract a COVID and a ******* addiction

Don’t know if this applies but when I was having an issue flashing an HVAC control module and having about the same trouble including bricking the original, I was on the phone with TIS tech services and she was controlling my computer remotely and having problems when she asked if I had an aftermarket stereo HU. I did, and she told me I need to pull the fuse for it because as the programming starts as well as several times during the process, the BCM attempts to wake up every module in the vehicle so it can read the software version so if it sees something connected it can get stuck trying to communicate with it if it’s not factory. I pulled the radio fuse and programming went smooth.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Don’t know if this applies but when I was having an issue flashing an HVAC control module and having about the same trouble including bricking the original, I was on the phone with TIS tech services and she was controlling my computer remotely and having problems when she asked if I had an aftermarket stereo HU. I did, and she told me I need to pull the fuse for it because as the programming starts as well as several times during the process, the BCM attempts to wake up every module in the vehicle so it can read the software version so if it sees something connected it can get stuck trying to communicate with it if it’s not factory. I pulled the radio fuse and programming went smooth.

That is something I have read however instead of pulling the fuse I disconnected the entire radio which I thought would do the same as the fuse. However I think I'm gonna have to try the fuse pulling to know for sure. I'm looking to build a bench harness soon and possibly revive the partially bricked ECU. I've done many flashes with the current radio installed and never had any issues but you never know.

I am determined to figure out exactly what the issue is/was it seems to be semi common and nobody seems to have a definitive answer or solution.

 

[Tonyrodz]

I would like to add some extra gauges to the Hoe. I was thinking about adding them to the A pillar, so I bought one of those universal pods. Tho possible to make it fit and look good, I don't want to mess with it. I was then thinking of getting the complete A pillar type, it fits OVER your existing pillar. Eh. Anyone have any ideas where to put some gauges? Mine are 2 1/2". I don't really care for the pod on the steering column. I thought about the top area of the center console, but that won't work well for me. I take that part off frequently enough that it'll be a pita. Anyone have any good ideas?

 

[Sam Harris]

Don’t know if this applies but when I was having an issue flashing an HVAC control module and having about the same trouble including bricking the original, I was on the phone with TIS tech services and she was controlling my computer remotely and having problems when she asked if I had an aftermarket stereo HU. I did, and she told me I need to pull the fuse for it because as the programming starts as well as several times during the process, the BCM attempts to wake up every module in the vehicle so it can read the software version so if it sees something connected it can get stuck trying to communicate with it if it’s not factory. I pulled the radio fuse and programming went smooth.

When I flash mine, I have to pull the radio fuse (aftermarket HU), as well as 2 fuses for the remote start in the dash. It’s a PITA, but I can’t log data, or flash with any of those fuses installed. Took a while to determine the issue but BBP suggested removing all of them, and it’s worked well so far.

 

[GJones]

Talked with a gm performance shop (that’s not far from home surprisingly). It’ll cost $350-375 for a street tune. Main thing they’d be doing is turning on the pins for the e fan.

She’s completely stock right now, but I planned on a new CAI, maybe some exhaust work and bigger wheels.

Would it be smarter to just invest in my own tuner to do flashes when I upgrade things or just stick with going to a shop.

 

[Sam Harris]

Talked with a gm performance shop (that’s not far from home surprisingly). It’ll cost $350-375 for a street tune. Main thing they’d be doing is turning on the pins for the e fan.

She’s completely stock right now, but I planned on a new CAI, maybe some exhaust work and bigger wheels.

Would it be smarter to just invest in my own tuner to do flashes when I upgrade things or just stick with going to a shop.

@BlackBearPerf .They’re going to be around 2x that cost, but will retune your rig for free as long as you own it. So any upgrades you do down the road will get a free tune to take advantage of it. Well worth it. I just got mine not long ago and it’s like driving a different truck. They will also activate your efans for you. That’s on my list but I’m still buying parts.

ETA: Does this performance shop down the road do dyno tuning ? If they do, that would be a potential advantage, but it will end up being more expensive in the long run, when you inevitably add a camshaft, heads and springs, rods, rockers, and eventually forced induction. [emoji16][emoji106][emoji631]

 

[Rocket Man]

@BlackBearPerf .They’re going to be around 2x that cost, but will retune your rig for free as long as you own it. So any upgrades you do down the road will get a free tune to take advantage of it. Well worth it. I just got mine not long ago and it’s like driving a different truck. They will also activate your efans for you. That’s on my list but I’m still buying parts.

ETA: Does this performance shop down the road do dyno tuning ? If they do, that would be a potential advantage, but it will end up being more expensive in the long run, when you inevitably add a camshaft, heads and springs, rods, rockers, and eventually forced induction. [emoji16][emoji106][emoji631]

You tell him Sam!