I followed this video, everything was the same except the injector harness is a different design, the only thing that threw me off was the 44inch/89inch lbs which is like 3.xx/7.*** ft lbs
What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter vwbeaner
- Start date
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DenaliReyes
Full Access Member
added more 3m reflective onto the lower bumper grill this time. I need a heatgun to avoid the wrinkles next time. 
and the doors, these were a *****. I def need a heat gun.What you think?
ivin74
05 NBS Nali
I did the same thing when I did mine and have not had any issues. Its been at least 4 years since I did mine.
HiHoeSilver
Away!
Took the Hoe out of commission for a few days to do a few things and drove the Denali, as there was no rain in sight. 
Out with the old, in with the new. Axle bearings and seals. One piece dust shields. I hit the mounting assemblies with the wire wheel and some high heat black i had laying around. Lookin fresh.
Axles back in and all new R1 Concepts parking brake shoes and hardware. I checked the adjustment when all was said and done. It holds the truck, but could be a little tighter. I will adjust it a little during the upcoming phase 2 of the project.
R1 Concepts drilled and slotted Geomet rotors with their Optimum OEP pads. Phase 2 will be new calipers (including nnbs for the front) that are in the garage awaiting POR15 red paint along with Goodridge ss lines.
Also indulged in a diff cover with drain and fill plugs. I think Yukon Gear provided a good balance between looks, function, quality, and price. I did pull the nameplate and add a little red (for hrspwrs). It's super heavy duty and the inside shape is pretty close the the OE cover, so fluid dynamics should be fine. I used a Lubelocker gasket. I love them. The cover is thick enough that I had to drop the sway bar to get it in. I'm not a huge fan of the Allen fasteners, but with some of them recessed, there's not really much choice.....or is there? See the bottom center?
As I was torqueing my final pass (30 ft/lbs.), that bolt spun out on me. At first I thought I had rounded out the Allen (why I hate them). Not the case. Then I thought, "cheap hardware." Nope. I took it out and the threads were full of material. I STRIPPED THE THREADS ON THE DIFF HOUSING! Oh no. So I scrounged around a bit and thought. I drilled it to 5/16, tapped to 3/8-16, installed a 1.5" SS stud, and topped it with a ss nut. Worked great. Looks even greater, imo. I just may do it all the way around when I do a new sway bar one of these days. Used the Delco GL-5 fluid. Gears looked good.
I also did the charcoal canister and vent valve solenoid while i was under there. CEL gone.
Took it to the industrial loop by my shop (gently) and performed the R1 bedding process. Working great. Phase 2 coming soon.
Edit: Forgot that in my anger with the secondary latch mechanism on the spare hoist (which I've already "fixed" once before), I broke, and subsequently, removed the entire assembly. Screw it.
Out with the old, in with the new. Axle bearings and seals. One piece dust shields. I hit the mounting assemblies with the wire wheel and some high heat black i had laying around. Lookin fresh.
Axles back in and all new R1 Concepts parking brake shoes and hardware. I checked the adjustment when all was said and done. It holds the truck, but could be a little tighter. I will adjust it a little during the upcoming phase 2 of the project.
R1 Concepts drilled and slotted Geomet rotors with their Optimum OEP pads. Phase 2 will be new calipers (including nnbs for the front) that are in the garage awaiting POR15 red paint along with Goodridge ss lines.
Also indulged in a diff cover with drain and fill plugs. I think Yukon Gear provided a good balance between looks, function, quality, and price. I did pull the nameplate and add a little red (for hrspwrs). It's super heavy duty and the inside shape is pretty close the the OE cover, so fluid dynamics should be fine. I used a Lubelocker gasket. I love them. The cover is thick enough that I had to drop the sway bar to get it in. I'm not a huge fan of the Allen fasteners, but with some of them recessed, there's not really much choice.....or is there? See the bottom center?
As I was torqueing my final pass (30 ft/lbs.), that bolt spun out on me. At first I thought I had rounded out the Allen (why I hate them). Not the case. Then I thought, "cheap hardware." Nope. I took it out and the threads were full of material. I STRIPPED THE THREADS ON THE DIFF HOUSING! Oh no. So I scrounged around a bit and thought. I drilled it to 5/16, tapped to 3/8-16, installed a 1.5" SS stud, and topped it with a ss nut. Worked great. Looks even greater, imo. I just may do it all the way around when I do a new sway bar one of these days. Used the Delco GL-5 fluid. Gears looked good.
I also did the charcoal canister and vent valve solenoid while i was under there. CEL gone.
Took it to the industrial loop by my shop (gently) and performed the R1 bedding process. Working great. Phase 2 coming soon.
Edit: Forgot that in my anger with the secondary latch mechanism on the spare hoist (which I've already "fixed" once before), I broke, and subsequently, removed the entire assembly. Screw it.
Last edited:
05Single
afraid of the dark
- Joined
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Nice , got my heat grin at Home Depot for $30 . Use the crap out of it too , think it’s a Wagner iirc
wjburken
Supporting Member
I’ve had my Wagner heat gun for about 15 years. Very useful tool.
rgosart
Full Access Member
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I'm gonna pass. Thanks though!
Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
Took the Hoe out of commission for a few days to do a few things and drove the Denali, as there was no rain in sight.
Out with the old, in with the new. Axle bearings and seals. One piece dust shields. I hit the mounting assemblies with the wire wheel and some high heat black i had laying around. Lookin fresh.
View attachment 255752
Axles back in and all new R1 Concepts parking brake shoes and hardware. I checked the adjustment when all was said and done. It holds the truck, but could be a little tighter. I will adjust it a little during the upcoming phase 2 of the project.
View attachment 255753
R1 Concepts drilled and slotted Geomet rotors with their Optimum OEP pads. Phase 2 will be new calipers (including nnbs for the front) that are in the garage awaiting POR15 red paint along with Goodridge ss lines.
View attachment 255750
Also indulged in a diff cover with drain and fill plugs. I think Yukon Gear provided a good balance between looks, function, quality, and price. I did pull the nameplate and add a little red (for hrspwrs). It's super heavy duty and the inside shape is pretty close the the OE cover, so fluid dynamics should be fine. I used a Lubelocker gasket. I love them. The cover is thick enough that I had to drop the sway bar to get it in. I'm not a huge fan of the Allen fasteners, but with some of them recessed, there's not really much choice.....or is there? See the bottom center?
View attachment 255751
As I was torqueing my final pass (30 ft/lbs.), that bolt spun out on me. At first I thought I had rounded out the Allen (why I hate them). Not the case. Then I thought, "cheap hardware." Nope. I took it out and the threads were full of material. I STRIPPED THE THREADS ON THE DIFF HOUSING! Oh no. So I scrounged around a bit and thought. I drilled it to 5/16, tapped to 3/8-16, installed a 1.5" SS stud, and topped it with a ss nut. Worked great. Looks even greater, imo. I just may do it all the way around when I do a new sway bar one of these days. Used the Delco GL-5 fluid. Gears looked good.
I also did the charcoal canister and vent valve solenoid while i was under there. CEL gone.
Took it to the industrial loop by my shop (gently) and performed the R1 bedding process. Working great. Phase 2 coming soon.
Edit: Forgot that in my anger with the secondary latch mechanism on the spare hoist (which I've already "fixed" once before), I broke, and subsequently, removed the entire assembly. Screw it.
Nice work! I despise the Allen head bolts everybody seems to supply with diff covers. That Yukon cover looks tough, looking forwards to phase 2.
Whew. When you said you torqued the intake manifold bolts to 44 ft lbs I was hoping you didn’t crack it. I think you got lucky more than once on that job!
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