What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Oshkosh

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I tore out my front drive shaft and am readying to replace the factory joints in the morning.
Picked up a ball-joint/u-joint tool tonight to make my life easier (I hope)...I figured between u-joints and GM front ends the tool will be a handy addition to my toolbox.
 

05Yukon23

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Refreshed the driver's side of my roof rack with what was left of the satin black I used on the valance. Looks much better! I think I want to color match the mounts though.
 

Alex33

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I secured the e-brake cable w/ a little bracket and checked all my suspension bolts after last weeks adventure :)
 

Oshkosh

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I think I found my noise

Well, I would say 136k miles used up all the goodness of this u-joint...And I am assuming my noise will be gone when I re install my driveshaft. :)
 

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electro

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Well, I would say 136k miles used up all the goodness of this u-joint...And I am assuming my noise will be gone when I re install my driveshaft. :)

I would assume that you are correct.

What year truck did that come out of?

Did you heat up the plastic inside or was there any?

How much was your ball joint/u-joint tool?

You should check to make sure the seals on the transfer case/transmission end of the driver shaft are still good.

My u joint went and it wrecked my seal on my transfer case. There was slight play on the shaft just before it entered the transfer case so I opened it up and replaced the rear bushing and added a case saver while I was in there and replaced the transmission to transfer case adapter seal as well.

I had to have my joints heated up using acetylene/oxygen mix. Apparently propane plumbing nozzel does reach a hot enough temp. to melt out the factory plastic.
 
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Rivieraracing

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Finished up my side mirror signal mod today, gonna get some video to post up tonight!! Still on the fence about how they look but they will work!!
 

Oshkosh

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I would assume that you are correct.

What year truck did that come out of?

A 2000

Did you heat up the plastic inside or was there any?

Yes , was able to do it with a propane torch, plastic worms.Once I got the u-joint out ,cleaned up the passage way of any remaining plastic.

How much was your ball joint/u-joint tool?

The tool I purchased was Harbor freights 4 wheel drive service set and with the 20% off coupon was $55.45.That being said I would not attempt it without my 1/2" impact gun.

You should check to make sure the seals on the transfer case/transmission end of the driver shaft are still good.

Just those two bearing/caps where bad, was almost frozen(moved about a 1/4", not bouncing around so everything else was good,I pulled the caps off and bearings just fell out.Made a god aweful creaking noise when it moved,thankfully didnt come apart on me and wipe anything else out...

My u joint went and it wrecked my seal on my transfer case. There was slight play on the shaft just before it entered the transfer case so I opened it up and replaced the rear bushing and added a case saver while I was in there and replaced the transmission to transfer case adapter seal as well.

I had to have my joints heated up using acetylene/oxygen mix. Apparently propane plumbing nozzel does reach a hot enough temp. to melt out the factory plastic.

The propane nozzle I picked up (Harbor freight also $14.99) worked well for me in conjunction with the service tool and a 1/2" impact gun.
Took me about a solid hour total to remove and install both u-joints out of the truck.
I heated up the yokes until the plastic squirted out(maybe 5 minutes) didnt even use a whole bottle on the job(less than $2.00 worth), then got the ridge good and warm around the caps, squirted some PB blaster around the ridge/caps let that sit for a minute or two, screwed the tool on and started working the caps. They didnt fly off mind you ,took a few minutes as I only have a 20 gal tank on my compressor here at the house.
After about five minutes working the u-joint popped out, then I removed the cap and pushed it back threw the other side with the tool and removed that cap and so on...
Once I had the joint out I heated the groove with the torch and used a flat screw driver blade and removed the rest of the plastic/nylon stuff.Then I took a wire brush and cleaned everything up before pressing the new u-joint in. They did go right in after everything was cleaned up.Installed the clips, tapped the yokes to free up the joints and everything was nice and smooth.
I cleaned and re greased the yoke spline ,lined up my marks and slid everything back together.Bolted the front caps on and torqued to 19ftlbs , road tested, noise gone :)
Now to replace my fan belt,squeek driving me nuts.lol
 

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