What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Fless]

Trying to pick some people's brains. After backing my boat down the launch (Water level not even to exhaust) I had a B2610 code set in, don't seem to have any issues with cluster lighting, and everything seems to work as necessary. Anybody else have this issue, it's also causing the Stabilitrac and traction control lights to stay on. I do have a custom cluster from digital dash solutions (fixmygauges) I don't seen any issues and there are no other codes active or in history. I'm a little puzzled currently. Any help would be great. Thanks

You might pull the trailer connector-associated fuses in the underhood fusebox.

There should be one each for left and right turn signals/brake lights, one for the running lights, and two large ones for the electric brake controller and the aux power to the trailer. There may also be one for the reverse lights if it's wired. Essentially remove any/all power to the 7-blade, then disassemble the connection on the backside (it should snap off by releasing a latch). Visually inspect connections and blow it out with air and/or something that displaces water.

Run the truck afterward to see if it made a difference, then reverse steps to reconnect.

 

[Keviebear86]

You might pull the trailer connector-associated fuses in the underhood fusebox.

There should be one each for left and right turn signals/brake lights, one for the running lights, and two large ones for the electric brake controller and the aux power to the trailer. There may also be one for the reverse lights if it's wired. Essentially remove any/all power to the 7-blade, then disassemble the connection on the backside (it should snap off by releasing a latch). Visually inspect connections and blow it out with air and/or something that displaces water.

Run the truck afterward to see if it made a difference, then reverse steps to reconnect.

Thats very helpful, I will give all of that a try! Thanks!

 

[Bigkevschopshop]

then a 4l60.....

 

[clandr1]

I visited my wife's family in Oregon last week and had the good fortune of being able to drive this 2001 3/4T 4x4 Suburban with the 8.1L gas motor all week.

It was purchased new by my wife's grandfather who passed away about 3 years ago. It is now referred to as the "Texas limo" since my wife and her sister moved down to Texas back in the early 90's, and when we go visit there's always at least 6 of us who fly up together and need transportation.

The truck only has 69,000 miles on it, and while I was up there I took a bucket of soapy water and a scrub brush and gave the first two rows of leather a good cleaning. It came out looking great, and after a quick run through the car wash will now be stored until we visit again next year.

My wife's aunt stores it at her house and drives it occasionally, and even had the front and rear diffs, transmission, cabin air filter and fuel filter serviced before our visit. I suggested she have the brake fluid flushed because the reservoir is looking pretty dark. I even offered to pick up the bill since nobody really drives it except us (I didn't have time to have it done while we were up there, and none of the family has the proper tools for me to do it myself).

It feels good to take care of the truck - I like to think that her grandpa is looking down on us, and appreciates my efforts to keep the truck looking good and running well.

 

[SnowDrifter]

How long have you been running the high pressure/high volume oil pump? Notice anything different from the stock pump? I'm running similar in my express van and oil pressure is high. On the highway I think it hits 80 psi hot. Think I read somewhere high pressure could be an issue. Been running it about 2 yrs like that with no issues, but I just wanted to ask. The amount of sludge in it was unreal. Changed to the hv because oil pressure went to 0 at idle. Also changed the O ring--which was still soft and pliable.

Installed on Mar 12th, 2019 at 140k. Currently at 165k

I read mine through the OBD port.

Running castrol edge euro 0w40:

Hot idle is ~50psi. Highway at 1600rpm is 65 or so.

Cold start is hard to quantify since temperature swings where I am. If it's in the negatives, it'll be high 70s at idle. Summer time where the engine is already at 100 degrees? It's 60 or so. I generally use the oil pressure as a gauge of internal engine temperature, so until it gets to steady state operating temp, I modulate how much gas I give it so it stays at or below 80psi. Cause you know... Oil actually touches all the working bits. It's a better indicator of internal engine temp IMO. Coolant just tells you cylinder wall and head temp.


I don't redline my rig when cold, so I couldn't tell you what that is. But hot, it'll just barely kiss 110 at shift point.


I buy quality oil filters though. Don't want one blowing up. Would make for sad. I also buy the longer ones that sit level w/ the bottom of the oil pan. XG3675 / EAO64 are the only 2 I roll with.


Only change I noted, besides obviously higher oil pressure, was a quieting of piston slap at idle. Prevailing theory is the slinging a bit more oil into the pistons provides a cushioning effect. Haven't noted any oil consumption or increase in catch can drainage, so whatever it is doesn't have any observable effects.


There are only 2 things I've read regarding high oil pressur.

1. Head drainback. Which.... Idk what vehicles those are on, but this one ain't it boss. Head drainback is pretty generous on these motors. I've held it at ~5k rpm for 10 minutes and haven't noted any concerns with that.

2. Blown out oil filters. But that generally takes in excess of 300psi. At least for a quality one. I don't keep up to date with the cheapest the mainland has to offer

Bonus: Internet thing where it will cut into your bearings is so beyond ********. It's an oil pump, not a cutting water jet. If your pressure is that high, you'll blow a hole in the side of the block's oil passages before you saw through a journal.

 

[Sam Harris]

I visited my wife's family in Oregon last week and had the good fortune of being able to drive this 2001 3/4T 4x4 Suburban with the 8.1L gas motor all week.

It was purchased new by my wife's grandfather who passed away about 3 years ago. It is now referred to as the "Texas limo" since my wife and her sister moved down to Texas back in the early 90's, and when we go visit there's always at least 6 of us who fly up together and need transportation.

The truck only has 69,000 miles on it, and while I was up there I took a bucket of soapy water and a scrub brush and gave the first two rows of leather a good cleaning. It came out looking great, and after a quick run through the car wash will now be stored until we visit again next year.

My wife's aunt stores it at her house and drives it occasionally, and even had the front and rear diffs, transmission, air filter and fuel filter serviced before our visit. I suggested she have the brake fluid flushed because the reservoir is looking pretty dark. I even offered to pick up the bill since nobody really drives it except us (I didn't have time to have it done while we were up there, and none of the family has the proper tools for me to do it myself).

It feels good to take care of the truck - I like to think that her grandpa is looking down on us, and appreciates my efforts to keep the truck looking good and running well.

View attachment 348519

It looks great man! Good to hear it’s story and I’m sure grandpa is watching, and appreciating the care provided by all of you.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Installed on Mar 12th, 2019 at 140k. Currently at 165k

I read mine through the OBD port.

Running castrol edge euro 0w40:

Hot idle is ~50psi. Highway at 1600rpm is 65 or so.

Cold start is hard to quantify since temperature swings where I am. If it's in the negatives, it'll be high 70s at idle. Summer time where the engine is already at 100 degrees? It's 60 or so. I generally use the oil pressure as a gauge of internal engine temperature, so until it gets to steady state operating temp, I modulate how much gas I give it so it stays at or below 80psi. Cause you know... Oil actually touches all the working bits. It's a better indicator of internal engine temp IMO. Coolant just tells you cylinder wall and head temp.


I don't redline my rig when cold, so I couldn't tell you what that is. But hot, it'll just barely kiss 110 at shift point.


I buy quality oil filters though. Don't want one blowing up. Would make for sad. I also buy the longer ones that sit level w/ the bottom of the oil pan. XG3675 / EAO64 are the only 2 I roll with.


Only change I noted, besides obviously higher oil pressure, was a quieting of piston slap at idle. Prevailing theory is the slinging a bit more oil into the pistons provides a cushioning effect. Haven't noted any oil consumption or increase in catch can drainage, so whatever it is doesn't have any observable effects.


There are only 2 things I've read regarding high oil pressur.

1. Head drainback. Which.... Idk what vehicles those are on, but this one ain't it boss. Head drainback is pretty generous on these motors. I've held it at ~5k rpm for 10 minutes and haven't noted any concerns with that.

2. Blown out oil filters. But that generally takes in excess of 300psi. At least for a quality one. I don't keep up to date with the cheapest the mainland has to offer

Bonus: Internet thing where it will cut into your bearings is so beyond ********. It's an oil pump, not a cutting water jet. If your pressure is that high, you'll blow a hole in the side of the block's oil passages before you saw through a journal.

That sounds great. Thx for getting back to me, sounds great and you've eased my fears about the higher oil pressure and volume.

 

[SnowDrifter]

That sounds great. Thx for getting back to me, sounds great and you've eased my fears about the higher oil pressure and volume.

I'll nab a UOA probably.... Sometime early next year. Was waiting till the pump had 30k on it otherwise all I'll be seeing is break in wear and gasket in the oil. Wouldn't tell much

 

[Rocket Man]

I visited my wife's family in Oregon last week and had the good fortune of being able to drive this 2001 3/4T 4x4 Suburban with the 8.1L gas motor all week.

It was purchased new by my wife's grandfather who passed away about 3 years ago. It is now referred to as the "Texas limo" since my wife and her sister moved down to Texas back in the early 90's, and when we go visit there's always at least 6 of us who fly up together and need transportation.

The truck only has 69,000 miles on it, and while I was up there I took a bucket of soapy water and a scrub brush and gave the first two rows of leather a good cleaning. It came out looking great, and after a quick run through the car wash will now be stored until we visit again next year.

My wife's aunt stores it at her house and drives it occasionally, and even had the front and rear diffs, transmission, cabin air filter and fuel filter serviced before our visit. I suggested she have the brake fluid flushed because the reservoir is looking pretty dark. I even offered to pick up the bill since nobody really drives it except us (I didn't have time to have it done while we were up there, and none of the family has the proper tools for me to do it myself).

It feels good to take care of the truck - I like to think that her grandpa is looking down on us, and appreciates my efforts to keep the truck looking good and running well.

View attachment 348519

Now that’s a true unicorn, especially with that mileage.

 

[Tonyrodz]

15224193



Stop sodomizing your truck then?
On the real: I'm curious on what's been going on. Just cause.... It's what I do. I wanna know!


huh.... TIL.

With my discount getting it for $35. Thx.