What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Scottydoggs

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Well, got the ole Burban home finally. Had my Father in Law meet me at me work this morning, and we were able to pull it with a tow rope out of the parking garage to a point where the tow truck was able to load it. Oil level is fine, and the gauge says I have almost 20psi when I start the engine. But even if I rev up to 2500 rpns's, the oil pressure doesn't increase it just stays about 20psi. Does anyone know how to diagnose this? Should I throw a new oil pressure sensor on it first? Or should I just assume that my oil pump is going bad? Also, the oil level warning light has gone out now. It's confusing the hell out of me. Maybe I should fire the parts cannon. Just replace the oil level sensor and oil pressure sensor and go from there:shrug::shrug:
could be the o ring on the oil pick up to oil pump.

if it showed op and is not clapping up a storm aka as the rockers tapping a tune lol it could be the sensor. to test the op with a mech gauge you remove the op sensor and screw the op gauge hose in its place. auto parts stores carry them for the free tool rental deal.
 

Walchit

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Have any of you guys oiled yours? The comments on that video just say "the thickest oil that will flow through the syringe" and I would like to do this right, lol
 

live2pull

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Been chasing a coolant leak for about a month.

Originally thought it was the vent block on passenger rear because of where stream off the truck was and that the back of head was super clean. I did not run the truck and inspect. Lesson #1, learned. I had broken the tab incidentally one of the times I replaced the oil pressure sensor, so I thought this would be a good opportunity to pull the intake and fix that as well. What a mess. Get everything cleaned up, put back together, go to run, truck doesn't start. Start and die condition. Ended up soldering OPS connector wrong. Sort that out truck runs again. Still leaking.

Turns out, the water pump is leaking down front of engine onto oil pan running back to the bell housing. I knew the water pump was suspect when I bought the truck and oodles of RTV were on the T-stat housing and water pump mounting gaskets. Ended up getting almost three AZ summers on it before R&R.

Ordered every part of the cooling system less than the heater cores. Which was good too because hoses and disconnects were disintegrating in my hands. Did the chemical clean and proceeded to disassemble, clean the block and accessory drive, then the ac condensing coil, which the foaming cleaner from home depot works well to clean the accessory bracket,BTW.

Get everything put back together and unpack the radiator and there is a giant dent and the entire core is twisted. Rock auto is overnighting me a new radiator should be here tomorrow. Just in time for me to head to the office for 12 hour days. So wait until Saturday night.

The truck has nearly 200k on it and has leaked a bit of oil. There are signs of at least one over heated condition, the chrome on the grill has started bubbling. I found some bolts on the valley were only finger tight, I also was able to retorque some of the bolts on the timing cover. Hopefully that helps dry it up a bit.
 

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Walchit

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Aren't they known to lose the internal oil? Or am I thinking of something else?

EDIT:


I tossed in my new cluster yesterday just to see if it worked, and I definitely need some oil in the motors. I have been searching for what oil to use, and I came across a thread on a gm forum. They were using a silicone oil, meant for RC car differentials. The highest weight I saw recommended, or tried was the 100,000 cst oil.

Here is a rather lengthy thread, where they also fix the twitching gauges via some capacitors and other electronic devices. I was trying not to pay too much attention to those parts of the thread, as I just wanted to know the best oil for now lol

 

blueinkd

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Does anyone have any feedback or experience with the energy suspension rear control arm bushing kit?? Just curious as my truck has well over 250k miles and I'd like to replace these. Patient pic attached
 

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Walchit

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Does anyone have any feedback or experience with the energy suspension rear control arm bushing kit?? Just curious as my truck has well over 250k miles and I'd like to replace these. Patient pic attached
I just bought the moog control arms to avoid pressing out/in the bearings. If you have a vice or that ball joint tool they probably press fairly easily though. I had to put the ones in my shocks.
 

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